Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

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Thanks for the shock tower input 69LC. My situation is turning out a little different. My axle is moved forward from stock and the shock might end up angled back. Unless I put a big notch in the Ford tower for the PS box.

Still pondering this one.
 
woodsfj40 said:
I'm really torn on whether to box my frame or not to. I wonder if it being riveted was just a production consideration or by design?
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considering I discovered both my rear frame horns cracked after a run on Chiva Falls (which is not all THAT hard), my answer is: yes

considering I had to wheel Golden Spike with one of the front horns cracked last year (feels like on a time bomb :eek: and I was glad at the end of day I made it out without the spring having ripped off :eek: PHEW), but yeah, I had that welded and boxed the next morning :doh:

just adding my $0.02 - but you could ask Tools for his expert input, too ;p
 
Cdaniel said:
Well production and design considerations go hand in hand when it comes to manufacturing. The rivets must have been the functional and economical solution for the times. For your rig and your plans for it, I would think it's fine to leave it as is. (fix them spring hangers though :D)

The boxing I'm doing is only to reinforce the alterations I'm doing. I have done and will be doing fairly hard trails and don't see much reason to box in the entire chassis. I may add some gusseting to the rear forward spring hanger after seeing what happened to DSRTRDR's frame though Her story
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I really am leaning that way. I want to address my front frame rails a little more now that I can see the extent of the PO damage. I think I am going to box all of that in, but leave the rear frame as it is. I am also planning on doing the gussets at the forward rear spring perches, and obviously replacing the broken rears. :-)

I really wish I had a decent welder. My little 110 just isn't up to the task.
 
DSRTRDR said:
considering I discovered both my rear frame horns cracked after a run on Chiva Falls (which is not all THAT hard), my answer is: yes

considering I had to wheel Golden Spike with one of the front horns cracked last year (feels like on a time bomb :eek: and I was glad at the end of day I made it out without the spring having ripped off :eek: PHEW), but yeah, I had that welded and boxed the next morning :doh:

just adding my $0.02 - but you could ask Tools for his expert input, too ;p
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I have talked to Kevin, and he is a proponent of boxing and stitching. If you take a peak at the last 2 posts in my build thread, you will see the stuff that I have to address immediately.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/387163-sancha-rebuild-project-6.html

I am planning on doing something along the lines of the gussets that he built for yours, and will be boxing the front frame channels, I just haven't decided about the rears yet.
 
New parts day

Happy birthday to me.
UPS came early for a change.

Unfortunately the twin stick didn't come along for the ride.:hhmm:

I'm getting even more behind now:cool:
orion1.webp
 
Got a little done before my brain melted in the afternoon 100+ temps today.
Frame welding in paint now. One good thing about the heat, paint drys quick:p
framedone.webp
 
11:00 am, in the shade....
The:princess:gave me a cool old RC Cola thermometer. And it now hangs in the garage to help remind me that, yes, it can be 100 in the shade.


Front axle disassembly began today. I was happy to see all was still well inside the knuckles after many moons.

Except, the short side birf is stuck inside the brass bushing. Brass bushing doesn't press into the spindle. Weird.....:hhmm:
thermo.webp
birfbush.webp
 
69LC said:
What is Rust-Mort and where did you get it? I hadn't heard of that. I need to treat my springs with something better before paint.
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It's a brush on rust converter I stumbled onto while chasing rust demons on my 62 pickup. I found it at the local auto paint supply
SEM Products - Catalog - RUST-MORT

I knocked off the big stuff with a wire wheel, brush this stuff on, let dry and rinse off the excess the next day. Supposedly ready for a top coat at that point.

I painted the leaves with a rust converting primer then a coat of satin black Krylon. Should last a little while until I start knocking springs into rocks again.:D
 
I started painting my frame this evening. Paint drys pretty damned fast when the temp is just over 100 in the garage. :-)

I decided against the boxing and stitching with the exception of the front frame rails. I want to fix some issues up there.

Where those freshly painted springs some of mine? If so, they never looked so good :-)
 
woodsfj40 said:
Where those freshly painted springs some of mine? If so, they never looked so good :-)
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Well it turned out that your springs were actually in too good of shape still. A bit more arch than required to match the rear.:meh:

I ended up using a pair of fronts I got from Tim Hill years ago. Minus one leaf.

The jury is out on exact ride height till I get it all back together.
 
Cdaniel said:
Happy birthday to me.
UPS came early for a change.

Unfortunately the twin stick didn't come along for the ride.:hhmm:

I'm getting even more behind now:cool:
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Oooh nice! Like to see how that goes together. That's been on my list of "somedays"... :cool:
 
Beef!............

It's what's for steering!

4x4 labs stuff makes the rest of my Cruiser look puny in comparison. Can't wait to get this stuff on.:D
steerstuff.webp
 
That's what I want to do in the future. What TREs did you go with & did you have to give lengths for the drag or is that something 4x4 labs already has figured out?
 
I went with GM TRE's
And 4x4 labs specs it all with your description of your set up.

pb4ugo said:
That's what I want to do in the future. What TREs did you go with & did you have to give lengths for the drag or is that something 4x4 labs already has figured out?
Click to expand...
 
7/3/11: minor progress before heat limit was reached.

Got the springs in for their hopefully final install.

Finished tearing down the old knuckles to be replaced by later model.

Axel under the full weight again for final disposition on spring perch location (must add caster) and setting the power steering box.

Did some honing on old knuckle bearings to be used for easy mock up of new steering components.

Pulled a busted stud out of a new to me knuckle. (hope that stud isn't a bad omen, :confused:
springsin.webp
studremove.webp
 
Just read this whole thread, keep it up, I have always liked your cruiser. Its cool to see it go through a big overhaul... mine is feeling its age as well.
 
REZARF said:
Just read this whole thread, keep it up, I have always liked your cruiser. Its cool to see it go through a big overhaul... mine is feeling its age as well.
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Thanks man! The mec-a-nik is feeling his age too.:D
The AZ summer garage time always leaves me wishing to be in your neck of the woods. Growing up in the Denver area , I remember summer there. Awesome. On the other hand I don't have to shovel the heat.

I'm hoping to get your clubs Cruise Moab checked off the bucket list after this. Doing those trails with fellow Yoyta nuts would be even better.

On a progress note, I've hit a snag. My new to me knuckles are not what I thought they were. Seems to be 70 series parts. Searching for the right stuff...........
 
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