Glow worms in jam jars to (H4 headlights and wiring harness) (1 Viewer)

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Ok so either this plugged into the now spare headlight socket should fix the high beam indicator


Or pull the indicator bulb out and replace with a led bulb as there’s not enough current to light existing bulb I believe.
 
Any idea where they came from?

I've done a few searches, just seem to find that "Dietz style" thing I posted, and they're all metal by the look of it, and a bit too much money for an empty pod.

Some motorcycle headlight pods might work ok too. Bit cheaper.

There's only so much I'd spend on this before it'd just make more sense to just buy a new set of lights.

Not that I ever drive the 40 in the dark...:lol:
Someplace like Berks Intertruck. I should be able to find them easy and put up a pic.

EDIT: Found a pics. This is a slightly smaller model. I used a pair of smaller H4’s that were the high
beam lenses from a ‘69 Mustang 4 bulb system. I put 80/130’s in there. On relays they were spectacular!!
I‘ve posted the part number but you should be able to get a part number for the larger size. I ran a set
of 250W 7” landing lights on previous Mustangs for long runs on the Alaska Highway. Back then I could
see and avoid moose and horse at 1/2 mile at speeds over 100 mph. Closing rates were kinda high.
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Ok so either this plugged into the now spare headlight socket should fix the high beam indicator


Or pull the indicator bulb out and replace with a led bulb as there’s not enough current to light existing bulb I believe.
Interesting. My blue light doesn't work either, for no obvious reason.

And I haven't even put the kit in yet :lol:

That thing looks like what's in my 60. A short tail off each light with a plug that's wired slightly different, like it's rotated 90 degrees basically.
 
Not sure what’s up with the 4 squares but here is the round eyes

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High beam indicator is wired to the low beams and not illuminated when the low beams are on because of the better path to ground threw the switch.

It illuminates when the high beams are selected by drawing a small amperage threw the low beam filaments to ground but not enough to light the low beam headlights.

Because we removed our headlights and put two small relay coils in place of the bulb it can’t draw enough amperage threw the small relay coils to light visibly anymore. It’s actually still glowing just too dim to see.

So we either need to provide a resistor with a similar resistance to the two old light bulbs (not the best option) or find a lower wattage light (led) my plan.

Here is the updated wiring schematic.
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In the Ambo I needed to use one also. CANBUS unit they called it. Without it the High/low worked till I started it… then had DRL and high beams (and no blue indicator light). DRL suck to try driving with at night… couldn’t care less about the blue light. If you need an indicator light to tell you high beams are on, they’re not bright enough. ;)
 
couldn’t care less about the blue light. If you need an indicator light to tell you high beams are on, they’re not bright enough. ;)

Except it’s a vehicle code to have a working high beam indicator and won’t pass a full inspection.

I would have enough problems passing an inspection without adding more simple ones. I’m trying not to give them any opportunities to “clean the roads of those old unsafe vehicles”
 
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Except it’s a vehicle code to have a working high beam indicator and won’t pass a full inspection.

I would have enough problems passing an inspection without adding more simple ones. I’m trying not to give them any opportunities to “clean the roads of those old unsafe vehicles”
Good point, I hadn’t thought of that. I’ve only ever had to do one for the Ambo. Got one because the core of the Shrader valve on the fuel bowl blew out. The officer didn’t like that it left a trail of fuel down the road for some reason.

It passed with flying colours once the spring pack with a broken leaf was replaced (actually had two once I pulled it out). Sucked replacing them in the driveway but I hate paying for towing on top of paying for repairs.

Only thing worse was that that side sat an inch lower than it had been with the two broken leaves. The stock replacement pack wasn’t up to snuff. Since it had passed the inspection, I drove it to Westshore spring and had them replace both sides with packs rated for an extra 1000 lbs each. In the end they also had to add a 1” lift block to the first side to get it to sit level. After a few years, they’ve now settled down enough that the ass end isn’t super high compared to the front. New coils in the front lifted the front about an inch which helped it to be more level.

Realized I’ve got way off track from glow worms. When my driving light bulbs go, I’ll likely switch to LED bulbs… for now Halogens are plenty.
 
Hey, I saw these ones and I remember the Dominion as being a better housing. If that helps.
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Except it’s a vehicle code to have a working high beam indicator and won’t pass a full inspection.

I would have enough problems passing an inspection without adding more simple ones. I’m trying not to give them any opportunities to “clean the roads of those old unsafe vehicles”
Keep working at it. There was a recent thread in 60’s forum about fixing this. I just didn’t get to it yet.
 
Keep working at it. There was a recent thread in 60’s forum about fixing this. I just didn’t get to it yet.

Did you read my previous message?
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Not sure what’s up with the 4 squares but here is the round eyes

View attachment 2880251

High beam indicator is wired to the low beams and not illuminated when the low beams are on because of the better path to ground threw the switch.

It illuminates when the high beams are selected by drawing a small amperage threw the low beam filaments to ground but not enough to light the low beam headlights.

Because we removed one bulb and put two small relay coils in place of the second bulb it can’t draw the amperage threw to light anymore.

So we either need to provide a resistor with a similar resistance to the two old light bulbs (not the best option) or find a lower wattage light (led) my plan.

Here is the updated wiring schematic.
View attachment 2880267
 
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Found the Grote version at least.

Amazon product ASIN B000FBSURE
6 ⅞" so I 'think' that fits a standard headlight...but I'm not 100%

Haven't had any luck with the Dominion Auto version tho.

Gonna try to order a couple sets of the bulb kits from Nanaimo today. Curious how that'll turn out...I have wildly different experiences with Toyota depending who answers the phone.
 
Ordered two of the kits. Supposedly there's 100 of them in California. (99 now :lol:)

Interestingly talking to the parts guy, the 12v kit is what shows up as being correct for 24v BJ42's and HJ60's.

I was trying to see if there was a version of it for 24v trucks with the 4 headlights. ( the paperwork alludes to it)

Trouble is not having a vin for that, and they wouldn't like any vins I gave them I expect.



Seems like putting the 12v kit into a 24v truck would be causing some unbalanced draws and causing more issues with batteries to me, but that's what the parts book says at least.

Although I guess thinking about it, it's just the relays themselves that'd be a 12v draw, and not the bulbs...:hmm:

Still don't think that's right, but he did say they put the kit in their project 42. :meh:
 
I've got my VIN which is for a 24V HJ60. Want to try it? Of course, you'd have to go to my place to read it. Can't see
it from here.
 
I've got my VIN which is for a 24V HJ60. Want to try it? Of course, you'd have to go to my place to read it. Can't see
it from here.
Trouble is hj60 were round headlights, so doesn't help for the 4 square.

I might do the round conversion if the pieces I have are in ok shape. My front valance (or rad support) is getting pretty ropey on my 61, so swapping it out might be a good thing.

Maybe an American fj62 vin?

I'll see when I go pick them up in a week or so.
 
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I just ordered a set like @stevebradford had... hoping there are two to the set, Toyota Parts didn't have that info and it's not returnable.
 
The upgraded wiring harness kit for 69$ comes with:

2 H4 headlamps
Complete wiring harness (relays and fuses)
Bag of Zip ties and grease
Installation instructions


It’s an easy strait forward install its plug and play no cutting. Other than the high beam indicator everything works and fits great. My 60 even had convenient empty nutserts to mount the two relays. the kit can be flipped to be installed for the wires to run either side of the vehicle depending on what battery you want to wire it to.
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Interestingly talking to the parts guy, the 12v kit is what shows up as being correct for 24v BJ42's and HJ60's.
My BJ42 has 12V headlights and it is stock that way. Guess they made the left light draw from left battery and right light from right battery. You just have to be quick on changing out a blown head light or you will get charging issues.
 
My BJ42 has 12V headlights and it is stock that way. Guess they made the left light draw from left battery and right light from right battery. You just have to be quick on changing out a blown head light or you will get charging issues.
Yea mine was that way too.

With this kit tho, you'd be taking both off the 12v tap, which seems like it'd be worse to me?

If I put it in my 60 I'll see what I come up with. Might be able to replace the relays with 24v versions and go from there

Kinda need to get a kit in my hands haha
 

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