Getting My LX450 Up to Speed (1 Viewer)

[cruiserman5]

Hello members,
I’m a new owner of a 1997 Lexus Lx450 and beyond excited to work on this rig to where I want it to be.
Little about my LX450, I bought it for around $9000 CAD, 204k km, some minor rust spots and needs some general maintenance as the last owners were an older couple who let it this car sit for a while. Other than that everything seems to be in great condition and would be a perfect project for the winter
With that being said, I am not a mechanic nor have owned any land cruisers previously and wanted some advice regards to maintenance and things I should look out for to keep this vehicle for as long as I can.
From what I’ve seen so far, I definitely need to flush all fluids, timing belt needs to be done, and seems like gaskets needs to be replace. I’ll try to upload some pics so it’s easier to see.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[cruiserman5]

Some things I saw from today. I think knuckles and wheel bearing needs to be replaced... any thoughts?

 

[Road Apple]

Here are bunch of notes I’ve taken from threads for baselining your truck.


Baseline

Change all fluids so you know when they need to be changed in the future

Do Front axle service if you don't know its been done in less than 40K miles or you see sludge on the balls

Potentially rear axle job

Change Spark plugs, PCV Valve and hose

Check brake pads, air filter etc.

Once you feel it is fully caught up, you can consider it baselined and then can schedule PM when its needed knowing its the right

Fluids

Motor Oil – Synthetic / Chevron Delo
Number of questions starting with an oil change

Motor Oil Guide
Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ

Oil Filter – Toyota OEM 90915-20004
Differential Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino
Transfer Case Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino
Transmission Oil – Synthetic ATF / Name brand Dex IV
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup
Power Steering Fluid – Mobil DTE 24 (highly recommended)
How to change Power Steering Fluid
Coolant Flush – Toyota Red
Coolant Flush Process Verification
Cleaned my cooling system: the full scoop...
Brake fluid
Brake fluid replacement
Lube
Grease Knuckles – Any Moly fortified grease
Grease Zerks – Any Lithium name brand grease
grease fittings on 97 lx450

Typical Wear Items
Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) - Silicone (good one @ index)
Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
OEM fuel filter
OEM in-tank fuel filter "sock" (mine was NASTY)
3FE valve adjustment
Vacuum hoses
Large hoses from intake to throttle body (like to crack where you can't see them)
Air Filter - Washable OEM
3x Drive Belts – OEM
Changing your belts in 25 minutes
PCV Hose – OEM
PCV Valve replacement
PCV Valve & Grommet – OEM
PCV Valve replacement
Spark Plugs (copper is fine) – OEM
Spark Plug Wires – OEM
Spark Plug Gaskets – OEM
Cap & Rotor – OEM
Valve Cover Gasket – OEM
valve cover+throttle body PM w/pics
Pesky Heater Hose – OEM or Silicone (permanent fix)
PHH


Common "when time allows / as necessary / makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside" items

Brake Pads (80 or 100 series up front, 80 in back) – OEM
Clean Throttle Body
How To Take the Throttle Body Off For Cleaning
Throttle Body Gasket – OEM
Coolant hoses – OEM
Vacuum hoses - OEM
Thermostat & Gasket - OEM
Replacing Thermostat
Service fan clutch (replace silicone oil w/ 6k or 10k CST)
Fan Clutch Service
Starter contacts & Plunger – OEM
Starter Motor Contacts
New battery (27F stock, 31M fits)
Install Success - Sears Diehard Platinum Group 31M





First my thoughts on the coolant flush/fill:


There is no way I thought using the radiator plug was going to give me a good result. It is in a difficult location with plastic and foam packed all around it. Turning it without breaking the plastic plug did not seem likely. I switched to using the output hose on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. The OEM hose clamps really make life hard. Plan on replacing the OEM clamp with a screw type hose clamp after it is removed. You will be much happier especially if you are doing a flush and therefore removing it over and over.



The tip on this site to get a 2’ socket extension for the block plug was brilliant. Do not think about the fact you cannot think where you will use this 2’ extension again. I spent around 6 bucks on it and it is a no brainer. It does line up perfectly in the DS wheel well.


The draining process is messy. No other way to say that, especially from the block. I used a large plastic tub used to mix concrete and I still could not get all the fluids dripping off the block. Have plenty of shop towels handy. The good news is the more you flush, the more the mess is getting “washed” with hopefully hot water.


I was a little surprised that Mr.T’s black coolant bottles do not have a clear sight line down the bottle. That would make the measurement much easier.

Total elapsed time = 8 hours. I did the initial drain, 5 flushes and the final re-fill. Drove the truck with heaters on high for a good chunk of time then let her cool for ~ 20 minutes before each flush. Managing all the liquid involved is a large part of the process. I had to re-use all the gallon jugs from the distilled water.

Thoughts on the tune-up:


98% of this job is simple and straightforward. I started with the distributor. It is easy to reach and a very simple swap. I changed the rotor also, but my original looked perfect. The rotor pulls straight out, but I had to give it a couple gentle taps to move it. The cap looked pretty good too. My wires were stamped 1997 – so they were original. Now they say 2010.

To work on the plugs I used two 2’x4’s strapped together. I was on my knees a long time on these boards. At the end I put on my knee pads, probably should have had them on the whole time.

I removed the entire air intake from the cleaner over to the intake manifold. I also removed No.2 PCV hose and the cruise control actuator cable. Obviously the 2 covers over the plug wires, but that was it.

Removing plugs 1-5 were easy. 4 was a mild PITA because of the cables I did not remove, but not bad. The OEM spark plug tool is really the greatest thing.

#6 is as bad as everyone says. Take your time and keep your cool. Have plenty of beer on hand to give you a reason to stop and think. The heater valve hoses mounted on the firewall are the biggest PITA. I ended up squeezing the hoses toward the firewall with my right hand while I extracted the tool with my left hand.

I could use some help on this explanation. I took it out for a drive after finishing. I believe the acceleration is much snappier – more responsive. I also used to run at 2200 RPM when doing a solid 55 mph. Now it seems to be down around 1900 RPM again at 55 mph. All my plugs looked normal, in fact 1, 5 and 6 I thought looked great after comparing to other pictures I have seen. I am overinflating the benefit of the tune-up because #6 was such a PITA or is this actual?

Total time = 4 hours. #6 was an hour by itself. I think I have seen 2 hours on the site.

 

[Road Apple]

Do you have service records showing when the last axle/knuckle service was done? If not, you’ll want to service them as part of your baseline.

I’d also address the rust if possible, especially on the frame. A big job, but will save your truck over time. You can do it as you go over over parts of the truck.

 

[BILT4ME]

Fluid Film or WoolWax will be necessary for you.

 

[Road Apple]

Fluid Film or WoolWax will be necessary for you.

Never used these products, but living on the coast, I’ll also take your suggestion. How often should they be applied? I assume like anything, it depends on use.

 

[BILT4ME]

Never used these products, but leaving in the coast, I’ll also take your suggestion. How often should they be applied? I assume like anything, it depends on use.

The guys on the East Coast USA do it twice a year I think.

 

[cruiserman5]

Here are bunch of notes I’ve taken from threads for baselining your truck.


Baseline

Change all fluids so you know when they need to be changed in the future

Do Front axle service if you don't know its been done in less than 40K miles or you see sludge on the balls

Potentially rear axle job

Change Spark plugs, PCV Valve and hose

Check brake pads, air filter etc.

Once you feel it is fully caught up, you can consider it baselined and then can schedule PM when its needed knowing its the right

Fluids

Motor Oil – Synthetic / Chevron Delo
Number of questions starting with an oil change

Motor Oil Guide
Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ

Oil Filter – Toyota OEM 90915-20004
Differential Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino
Transfer Case Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino
Transmission Oil – Synthetic ATF / Name brand Dex IV
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup
Power Steering Fluid – Mobil DTE 24 (highly recommended)
How to change Power Steering Fluid
Coolant Flush – Toyota Red
Coolant Flush Process Verification
Cleaned my cooling system: the full scoop...
Brake fluid
Brake fluid replacement
Lube
Grease Knuckles – Any Moly fortified grease
Grease Zerks – Any Lithium name brand grease
grease fittings on 97 lx450

Typical Wear Items
Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) - Silicone (good one @ index)
Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
OEM fuel filter
OEM in-tank fuel filter "sock" (mine was NASTY)
3FE valve adjustment
Vacuum hoses
Large hoses from intake to throttle body (like to crack where you can't see them)
Air Filter - Washable OEM
3x Drive Belts – OEM
Changing your belts in 25 minutes
PCV Hose – OEM
PCV Valve replacement
PCV Valve & Grommet – OEM
PCV Valve replacement
Spark Plugs (copper is fine) – OEM
Spark Plug Wires – OEM
Spark Plug Gaskets – OEM
Cap & Rotor – OEM
Valve Cover Gasket – OEM
valve cover+throttle body PM w/pics
Pesky Heater Hose – OEM or Silicone (permanent fix)
PHH


Common "when time allows / as necessary / makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside" items

Brake Pads (80 or 100 series up front, 80 in back) – OEM
Clean Throttle Body
How To Take the Throttle Body Off For Cleaning
Throttle Body Gasket – OEM
Coolant hoses – OEM
Vacuum hoses - OEM
Thermostat & Gasket - OEM
Replacing Thermostat
Service fan clutch (replace silicone oil w/ 6k or 10k CST)
Fan Clutch Service
Starter contacts & Plunger – OEM
Starter Motor Contacts
New battery (27F stock, 31M fits)
Install Success - Sears Diehard Platinum Group 31M





First my thoughts on the coolant flush/fill:


There is no way I thought using the radiator plug was going to give me a good result. It is in a difficult location with plastic and foam packed all around it. Turning it without breaking the plastic plug did not seem likely. I switched to using the output hose on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. The OEM hose clamps really make life hard. Plan on replacing the OEM clamp with a screw type hose clamp after it is removed. You will be much happier especially if you are doing a flush and therefore removing it over and over.



The tip on this site to get a 2’ socket extension for the block plug was brilliant. Do not think about the fact you cannot think where you will use this 2’ extension again. I spent around 6 bucks on it and it is a no brainer. It does line up perfectly in the DS wheel well.


The draining process is messy. No other way to say that, especially from the block. I used a large plastic tub used to mix concrete and I still could not get all the fluids dripping off the block. Have plenty of shop towels handy. The good news is the more you flush, the more the mess is getting “washed” with hopefully hot water.


I was a little surprised that Mr.T’s black coolant bottles do not have a clear sight line down the bottle. That would make the measurement much easier.

Total elapsed time = 8 hours. I did the initial drain, 5 flushes and the final re-fill. Drove the truck with heaters on high for a good chunk of time then let her cool for ~ 20 minutes before each flush. Managing all the liquid involved is a large part of the process. I had to re-use all the gallon jugs from the distilled water.

Thoughts on the tune-up:


98% of this job is simple and straightforward. I started with the distributor. It is easy to reach and a very simple swap. I changed the rotor also, but my original looked perfect. The rotor pulls straight out, but I had to give it a couple gentle taps to move it. The cap looked pretty good too. My wires were stamped 1997 – so they were original. Now they say 2010.

To work on the plugs I used two 2’x4’s strapped together. I was on my knees a long time on these boards. At the end I put on my knee pads, probably should have had them on the whole time.

I removed the entire air intake from the cleaner over to the intake manifold. I also removed No.2 PCV hose and the cruise control actuator cable. Obviously the 2 covers over the plug wires, but that was it.

Removing plugs 1-5 were easy. 4 was a mild PITA because of the cables I did not remove, but not bad. The OEM spark plug tool is really the greatest thing.

#6 is as bad as everyone says. Take your time and keep your cool. Have plenty of beer on hand to give you a reason to stop and think. The heater valve hoses mounted on the firewall are the biggest PITA. I ended up squeezing the hoses toward the firewall with my right hand while I extracted the tool with my left hand.

I could use some help on this explanation. I took it out for a drive after finishing. I believe the acceleration is much snappier – more responsive. I also used to run at 2200 RPM when doing a solid 55 mph. Now it seems to be down around 1900 RPM again at 55 mph. All my plugs looked normal, in fact 1, 5 and 6 I thought looked great after comparing to other pictures I have seen. I am overinflating the benefit of the tune-up because #6 was such a PITA or is this actual?

Total time = 4 hours. #6 was an hour by itself. I think I have seen 2 hours on the site.

Thank you so much! That’s a lot of good information. I definitely think I’m gonna have to service the front axles and the knuckles because there is a lot of built up sludge. With that being said, is it better to do it my self or get a mechanic. If I were to go into a shop how much should I expect ? I’m not too handy with cars but I’m willing to learn and do what is necessary to make this my rig.

 

[cruiserman5]

Fluid Film or WoolWax will be necessary for you.

Awesome I’ll give them a look. I heart rust bullet is pretty good but you recommend these guys over that? I’m gonna sand down all the rust and repaint it and going to undercoat it myself in my if that’s possible.

 

[Feldrian]

If you're going to sand (or blast) and paint the frame, look into the POR-15 products. The system works pretty well and is forgiving if you're a rookie painter.

I'm a fan of Fluid Film - It's spec'd to use on aircraft which for what ever reason sold me. Seems to hold up well from my experience - friends in the salt in Minnesota swear by it. If you're planning to paint ... Fluid Film afterwards, not before