valve cover+throttle body PM w/pics (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 10, 2006
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Location
North Pole, AK
Well,
Had some fun today. I installed the blue hub fan clutch, cleaned the throttle body and IAC, and installed the valve cover gasket with new spark plug grommetts.
The old fan clutch seemed to be in good shape, but after 15 years I figured it might need to go.
The valve cover leaked like a sieve, probably due to the gasket being about as plyable as a #2 pencil. The grommets were cracked and very hard.
The throttle body was very dirty, the IAC however, was pretty clean. I did have the high startup idle, so we will see if I fixed it.

Anybody else ever have the tape let go on the accel, throttle, and cruiser cables? I totally lost the factory positions, but adjusted them fairly close I hope.:doh:
Anyways, here's what it looked like before and after.:popcorn:
throttlebody.JPG
engine.JPG
blue hub.JPG
 
I have the same PM project on my list. How long did it take, any suggestions to do or avoid.

Thanks, Jay
 
Its really not a bad project at all. Probably took me 1 1/2 hours to do. Just be careful with the torque on the valve cover gasket. I think its like 12 ft lbs. I snapped one.
 
It took me about 3 hours. Alot of that time was spent cleaning the throttle body and valve cover. Honestly it's a pretty straight forward job. If your PCV hoses are hard, I'd recommend changing them as well as anything else that's rubber under the hood. I replaced every rubber hose I could get access to. Make sure to tape or mark your throttle cables better than I did. My tape came off and I totally lost my factory settings. Also, be very careful with your rubber intake tube. Mine is brittle, and even with extreme care I still cracked it in one spot.
I had already changed out spark plugs and wires, but if you haven't, it would be a great time to do it.
Last but not least, get your parts from C-Dan. He knows what you will need for the job.

TK
 
The most difficult part for me was removing the spark plug tube grommets. I had to hammer a screwdriver between the outside edge of the grommet and valve cover to pry them out. I wouldn't bother cleaning the inside of the valve cover unless there is some nasty black stuff.

Removing the air filter assembly makes for a real nice seat. When disconnecting the cruise control, accelerator and throttle cables I made sure to only loosen one of the two nuts. Putting a wrap of tape behind the other nut would have been a good idea. If you haven't done it yet, get all the little hoses that connect to the throttle body and replace those. There's a couple that are on the underside and now would be a fantastic time to replace those.

Tightening the valve cover bolts seem to cause a lot of trouble. If you have to use a ratchet, use the smallest 1/4" ratchet driver you can find. I used a screwdriver handle with a 1/4" square drive end. It is unlikely a person could break a bolt with one of these unless they have forearms like Popeye. A universal joint and extensions help with the rearmost bolts. I tightened the bolts in a pattern like you would for the head bolts. I tightened them all snug first. Then a second time very snug and a third time as tightly as I could twist the driver handle. This ensures the cover is tightened evenly. No leaks after 2k miles.
 
Could you post the part# and ballpark cost of the valve cover gasket? I'd like to do this sometime soon also. Thanks.
 
Good work.

I'm still kicking myself. On two separate occasions I've had the TB off and the plugs/wires out and still havent done the valve cover gasket (which is leaking)...live and learn to bunch up the repairs!

Thats a good day of wrenching! I'm curious if your high-idle will be gone now. My intermittent low idle and high start up idle both went away after cleaning the TB and IAC.
 
Its really not a bad project at all. Probably took me 1 1/2 hours to do. Just be careful with the torque on the valve cover gasket. I think its like 12 ft lbs. I snapped one.

I believe the FSM shows 15 ft lbs and when we replaced my VCG, we set the torque wrench to 13 ft lbs and still snapped one.

The project is not really that bad at all, except trying to get the spark plug grommets out.

Contact Cdan and he will give you everything you need.
 
My high start up idle is now gone, and the super low idle is gone. I have a odd fluctuation in idle once in a while that is still there. It has a 20-50 RPM fluctuation while in stopped in drive. Anyone know what that is?
It definitely seems to run smoother now. It freaked me out at first because it barely started and would not hold an idle. I attribute that to the large amount of Carb cleaner I used, because it runs great now.
I would advise everybody to at least clean the Throttle body as an easy PM. I have a very well-taken care of Cruiser with low mileage, and I couldn't believe the crap that came out of it.

TK
 
Did you happen to take a pic of the underneath of the valve cover? I did mine a couple weeks ago and was curious to know what other folks covers look like. Here's a pic of mine...(hijack over) :D
valve cover.jpg
 
It's not hard at all. The most difficult part was loosening the nuts (buy new ones)
 
Dixie, I do have a pic of the valve cover. I'll try to remember to post it later today, but if I don't, it looked about the same as yours. Did yours have a bunch of really hard dried oil towards the front of the motor? Mine did and it just looked like the dizzy gear was more dry than I thought it would be.

Tapage, It was very easy. I just unbolted the four bolts that connect the clutch hub to the motor, unbolted the two top fan shroud bolts, then I pulled out the fan/clutch between the shroud and radiator. Hard to explain, but once you look at yours, it will make sense.

TK
 
Tapage, It was very easy. I just unbolted the four bolts that connect the clutch hub to the motor, unbolted the two top fan shroud bolts, then I pulled out the fan/clutch between the shroud and radiator. Hard to explain, but once you look at yours, it will make sense.

TK

Thanks TK .. I already do it in my 60 series and the job was a total PITA with te rad and shroud in place .. and I wan't to do this job in my 80 ..
 
I believe the FSM shows 15 ft lbs and when we replaced my VCG, we set the torque wrench to 13 ft lbs and still snapped one.

The project is not really that bad at all, except trying to get the spark plug grommets out.

Contact Cdan and he will give you everything you need.

It's actually 12 ft lbs, as I just did this PM last week, but all you have to do is tighten them until there's contact, then use a pattern like torquing a cyclinder head to bring them all down evenly snug. You don't want to be breaking them. Unless you are using a very small 3/8's drive torque wrench, then I would asvise not torquing them with the 1/2" drive since I don't think they're as accurate due to the added extensions and such needed when doing the valve cover.
 
Is it necessary to remove the valve cover to get the throttle body off?
 
thanks i am attempting this tomorrow, however, unsure if i need a throttle body gasket. or if you can take it off and put it right back down!
 

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