Getting my butt kicked trying to CA smog my 60!

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As an ex mechanic, I am a big fan of doing as little work as possible to get the job done. You could just try lubing the actuator rod from the outside before you go to the trouble of removing the valve. Put a couples of drops of dry lube (teflon or graphite) on the rod and work it in by applying and releasing vacuum until the rod doesn't stick any more. You might also try alternating lube with spray type carb cleaner on the rod. The actuator rod extends from the diaphragm down to the valve seat.
 
Hm, What is the method used to lubricate the actuator valve with unit still on vehicle?

I see that the flex tube to egr valve hastto be disconnected, but the actuator port faces down. Is the lube suggested a spray type where I can position to spray up into the unit?

Or, is there a secret access to the actuator from above?


Thanks again!
 
Just the rod needs lube. It is open to the outside between the vacuum can on top and the valve on the bottom. You can see it move up and down in response to vacuum. You need to get down low and look at it from the side. Just put a drop of lube on a Q-tip or something like that.
 
Update?

So what is going on with your rig Gad?any luck finding the culprit?:bang:
 
Hi Pin_head,

Regarding "open to the outside between the vacuum can on top and the valve on the bottom", I am ignorant on how to pull this off.

I don't see reference to that in the FSM. Nor do I recall seeing any physical indications of being able to do this. Can you elaborate (pictures or ?)?

If I can pull this off w. unit in rig, I would be wicked psyched!

yours truly...
 
You just have to get your head in there and look for the actuator rod. It is chromed and it is about 1/8 inch in diameter. It moves up and down in response to vacuum. I have only worked on an '85 so maybe the valve is different in other years?
 
Hi Pin_head,

Still not sure where you are accessing the EGR plunger rod.

Check out the image below. Please advise where one would look to see the plunger rod/lubricate it.

egr picture.JPG
 
Hi Pin_head,

First off, that video is hilarious. Puts a whole new spin on "shade tree mechanic" (especially the stalker). Not that I haven't been in those situations:-)

Anyways, down to business....I did note the brief YouTube scene with the exposed actuator rod. Looks like that window is on the "hard to see side" of that particular EGR valve.

I am assuming your valve had a very similar window on the hard to see side. I do believe that all the 2f 60's all use the same EGR valve, thus I hope mine has that access point. Hope I can get to it.

All in all, I appreciate your tips on this matter.

BTW: where in OC are you located?

Thanks again!
 
I think I remember seeing the rod move up and down an the 85 because I lubed that SoB. I might be having a bad dream too. If you can't access the rod from the outside of the valve, it will need to come off. I am in Irvine; real close to the University.
 
vipergrhd said:
So what is going on with your rig Gad?any luck finding the culprit?:bang:
Click to expand...

Well, i found a huge exhaust leak from a cracked out weld on the manifold to primary pipe flange so I pulled that and fixed it over the weekend. I'm still trying to get the AI check valve off the rail so i can replace that and I need to find the vsvs for the abv and the asv as mine are both shot.

Kind of a one forward two back process but this thing will be minty fresh when I'm done.

Thanks for the message I can use all of the help and motivation I can get! :D
 
Pin_Head,

I'm in Dana point, just down the road.

It will take me a month or so to dig into the EGR valve as I am headed to Tahoe for a nursing externship. Wouldn't you know it...a drought year:-(
 
What size tires do you have on the truck? Once you fix all the items you can I would consider borrowing a friend's set of 31" stock tires. This would allow the truck to run through the gears easier, especially if you have stock diffs.

I replaced the CATS on my truck, adjusted the timing to spec, and adjusted the valves to spec. I barely passed with my 35's on. I wonder how I will do next time.
 
Well, I'm sorry I took so long getting back to those who offered up ideas but I finally got it smogged!

The project got left by the wayside for a few months but I started chipping away at little things (and there were a few!) as I found them.

-Fixed the exhaust leak
-Fixed the AI rail checkvalve
-Fixed one of the VSV that just had a sticky plunger by disassembling and cleaning it and the other by finding a working coil as mine was open
-Installed a standalone AFR meter with wideband O2 sensor to set the mixture

Set the mixture at 14.7 and boom, passed with flying colors. The mixture was quite rich from my attempt at the lean drop around 11.2 I think so that wasn't helping and the AI system wasn't working either so the catalyst wasn't getting the air it needed nor was the rail. I had a friend of a friend offer services to "pass it" as-is but it became a challenge I wanted to master and I'm glad I did. No more worries about smog dammit! ;) Unfortunately for me I'm looking into selling it now but good for the future owner! Thanks again to all who offered advice and support!
:cheers::beer:
PS, that AFR is the beezKneez for carb tuning and you can use it on anything that runs on gas or alcohol. You just weld a bung on the headpipe that you can easily cap when you are done tuning and having that feedback is just awesome. One of the best $150 I ever spent.
 
Slow Left said:
Could you pleas post up information (Make/Model etc.) about which AFR meter you used? Thx.
Click to expand...
Slow Left: Sure! It's an AEM 30-4100 UEGO controller gauge. It uses a calibrated Wideband Bosch O2 sensor and is totally standalone. I built a little housing for it out of an outdoor electrical outlet enclosure so I can move it and the harness around safely as I use it on other vehicles. I got it from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFQM4G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Thanks for posting this. Spike Strip installed a similar AFR meter setup and posted about it recently. My question though is what did you do to lean it out and get that 14.7, since the stock carb does not offer much in the way of lean/rich adjustability. Maybe I am missing something. I get that the AFR will give you an idea of how you're running, but how do you actually get there?
 
DFXR said:
Thanks for posting this. Spike Strip installed a similar AFR meter setup and posted about it recently. My question though is what did you do to lean it out and get that 14.7, since the stock carb does not offer much in the way of lean/rich adjustability. Maybe I am missing something. I get that the AFR will give you an idea of how you're running, but how do you actually get there?
Click to expand...

To be clear, I was only able to get the afr at idle to 14.7 using the idle mixture screw. At 2500rpm under no load it was more like 13.2 to 13.5. Another thing I learned is that you have to disable the ai at the rail or the gauge will just give you a lean reading that's of the charts due to the fresh air being pumped in after combustion.
 
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