Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.

[Slow Left]

Would it be better to buy a new fuel tank or fuel pump?

Hmm...before shelling out cash for a new fuel tank, I would make sure that I have correctly diagnosed exactly what the problem I'm trying to solve is.

Taking a step back, you have some performance symptoms...how do you make the leap (cause and effect) from those symptoms to the solution being replacing the fuel tank? Are there measurements you can take to help in the correct diagnosis and rule out/in certain causal relationships? And once diagnosed as best you can, can you use the current tank and just fix it?

 

[LAgallegos]

Above the rear bumper in the middle you will see a hole in the body. Dig around under your front seat or in the rear quarter panel(s) to find the OEM bottle jack and associated rod(s). Use the rod and crank handle to wind down the spare tire. If the winding mechanism under the truck is rusty, bathe it with PB Blaster penetrating lubricant, then try again tomorrow.

yeah shes real rusty. Probably gonna need multiple baths.

 

[gregnash]

Mine did when I went to lower the tire, think it is pretty inherent with these trucks. Now she is ok, few misses but gets down just fine.

 

[LAgallegos]

My search is buggy so I'm just gonna ask here. which one is my taillight relay?

Plus what is that missing plug?

Then second question. In about the same spot this (looks like blue/white and a black) cord is cut so that it doesn't go to anything. any idea what it goes too?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Empty plugs for:
electro-vacuum 4WDshift
pwr door lock
pwr window
glo plugs
headlight washer
etc...

 

[Slow Left]

 

[Slow Left]

Then second question. In about the same spot this (looks like blue/white and a black) cord is cut so that it doesn't go to anything. any idea what it goes too?

In the Appendix of the 1980 Chassis-Body FSM, you will find a wiring diagram. Use the wire color coding on the diagram to identify the component those wires lead to.

Here is the key for the wire color coding (also found in the 1980 Chassis-Body FSM):

 

[LAgallegos]

Okay. I asked cause randomly the other day my taillights went out. so i have no rear blinkers and I have no rear running lights and no plate lights

 

[Slow Left]

Okay. I asked cause randomly the other day my taillights went out. so i have no rear blinkers and I have no rear running lights and no plate lights

Check the 15A TailLight fuse in the main fuse box (to the left of the steering wheel in the vehicle cabin). Is the fuse good?

 

[LAgallegos]

Yeah already did. Its fine

Just got back from autostore and my blinker relay is dead.

 

[Slow Left]

The turn signals have their own fuse & relay (10A Turn fuse) and run off a different fusible link than the Tail Light circuit does. See wiring diagram.

Also, it has been a common occurrence for one of the lights (usually a side marker light) to have it's wires break off at the bulb socket and then that loose wire ground to the vehicle body...shorting the system. If you know that one of the side markers wasn't working before this occurred, you could pull that lens and inspect the wiring and make appropriate repair...

 

[LAgallegos]

my side marker lights are fine.
well my turn signal relay was bad. replaced that and my turn signals work. brake lights work. reverse lights work.

Just not running lights and license plate lights. All the wiring looks great. I couldn't load your pictures from above. So not sure if they were pointing out the difference between the turnsignal relay and the running lights relay

 

[Slow Left]

my side marker lights are fine.
well my turn signal relay was bad. replaced that and my turn signals work. brake lights work. reverse lights work.

Just not running lights and license plate lights. All the wiring looks great. I couldn't load your pictures from above. So not sure if they were pointing out the difference between the turnsignal relay and the running lights relay

Cool. Well done on the Turn Signal fix.

You also say that the side market lights are fine (there should be 4 side marker lights...2 on each side...one up front and one in rear for each side...)
but the running lights and license plate lights are out.
What do you mean by 'running' lights...? Does that mean Tail Lights (one of the 3 in the back lens that contains turn, brake and tail light- when the headlights are turned on)?

Have you checked to see if the bulbs are good?

If you remove the bulb(s), do you measure 12V at the socket when the lights are turned on? Use the voltmeter, ground the black(-) lead of the meter to the vehicle body and probe with the red(+) lead in the socket to see if you get 12V.

 

[LAgallegos]

okay, so I'm a little confused. Cause looking at my relays its a little different than this diagram.
Starting off, the red is the one I replaced, easy enough.
The light blue: I'm circling these two wondering what the difference is between them? Looking at the second row of relays(which is what these two are on) i have 4 places for relays. With one of them being empty, but the empty one is not a 3 prong like this diagram suggests. The heater relay looks like its there and the ignition. But what are the two in the middle or at least the mystery 4 prong one? the taillight or the light control?
That being said I replaced which ever one is in the middle and just 3 prong cause I had it and ran the part #. While I had it out I noticed my dash board lights didn't work. But thats the only difference I think. So is that on the same relay as the tail lights, or is that a different one.
The black lines are what the 4 prong shape is like, except they are all even(I'm just lazy and didn't want to fix it)

 

[Slow Left]

Do you have Headlight Cleaners on your vehicle?

Is it possible that your Relay Block is flipped around 180*?
The side of the Relay Block that has 4 relays on it should be on the vehicle's PS.
The side of the Relay Block that has 3 relays on it should be on the vehicle's DS.

 

[Slow Left]

The Relay Block on my 12/1981 FJ60 looks exactly like the one in the image.

So if you were looking up at the Relay Block from the DS footwell, the PS would be the top of the image (so the side with 4 relays would be on the PS of the block) and the DS would be the bottom of the image (the side of the block with 3 relays would be on the DS).
And the end of the block with the relays labeled 'Heater' and 'Turn Signal Flasher' would be towards the rear of the vehicle.
The 'Ignition' and 'Wiper Control' relays would be towards the front of the vehicle.

The relay labeled 'Heater' in the image is labeled 'Blower Relay' on the actual relay.
PNs:
'Heater' aka 'Blower':
TEQ PN - 85913-90A01
ND? PN - 056700-5560

Light Control Relay (3 prong)
TEQ PN - 90987-01003
ND? PN - 056700-4800

Tail Light Relay (3 prong)
TEQ PN - 90987-01003
ND? PN - 056700-4800

Ignition Relay (4 prong)
TEQ PN - 90987-02004
ND? PN - 056700-4840

Turn Signal Flasher - didn't pull, so don't have PN

US Cooling Fan Relay (4 prong)
TEQ PN - 90987-02004
ND? PN - 056700-4840

Wiper Control Relay - didn't pull, so don't have PN

 

[LAgallegos]

Do you have Headlight Cleaners on your vehicle?

Yes I have head light cleaners.

 

[Slow Left]

Yes I have head light cleaners.

Do they work?

 

[Slow Left]

Nevermind, I don't think that empty spot on your Relay Block is the Headlight Cleaner Relay.

For an image of where the Headlight Cleaner Relay should be located, see page 13-62 in the Body Electrical Section of the 1980 Chassis-Body FSM...

 

[Slow Left]

If you pull the license bulbs and don't read 12V+ at those bulb sockets, try popping the carpet off the tail gate, opening the access panel, unpluging the wire lead at the connector under the panel and testing to see if you are getting 12V+ to the battery side of that connection.

If you see 12V+ on the battery side of that connection, but not at the bulb sockets themselves, then the problem is between that connection and the bulb socket. Often times those contacts in the socket get rusty and just need to be cleaned. You should be able to unscrew the whole license plate light assembly through that access panel, remove it from the vehicle and clean those contacts. Then plug it back into the harness and retest before reinstalling it on the vehicle to make sure it works first.