2F FSM shows two types of alternators for USA FJ60s, one with a Tirrill Regulator and the other and IC Regulator. The IC Regulator type has the rectangular regulator sitting on top of the alternator. Can you identify which one you have from the images below?
Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.
- Thread starter LAgallegos
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- Thread starter
- #162
I have the IC type
OK, in the image above, it shows that there are 3 fuses associated with that system - Charge, Gauge and Engine fuses. Have you pulled all 3 fuses and checked them? I would recommend both visual inspection but also do a resistance measurement on the fuse.
Do all 3 fuses test out as functioning correctly?
- Thread starter
- #164
Yes all the fuses are working.
The gauge and charge are brand new too
The gauge and charge are brand new too
Notice in this image that there are two ways to connect the multi-meter for two different types of tests.
In one configuration...the Ammeter...current generated by the Alternator for charging the battery is measured in Amperes (thus an Ammeter measures Amperes).
In this configuration the Multi-meter is set to measure Current (Amperes) and is connected in series with the wire that goes between the battery and terminal B on the Alternator.
...by removing that wire at terminal B on the Alternator, connecting the black(-) lead of the Ammeter to that recently removed end of the wire and the red(+) lead of the Ammeter to terminal B...
NOTE: in this configuration, you are measuring significant amounts of current (10 amps!!). Be very careful! Current (not voltage) kills. If you are going to take this measurement, make sure it is set up correctly following the FSM guidelines, that the connections are tight, and the multi-meter is correctly set to measure Current (Amperes). I would install the multi-meter with the engine off, and after having installed it correctly, start the engine....and when uninstalling the meter...first turn the engine off. Also, make sure that your multi-meter can handle that amount of amperes...
The second configuration is to set the multi-meter to measure volts. After reconnecting the wire from the battery to terminal B on the Alternator, ground the black(-) lead of the Voltmeter and connect the red(+) lead of the voltmeter to terminal B on the Alternator. Make sure the multimeter is set to measure volts.
If you aren't comfortable taking these measurements, call local Autoparts stores to see if they do free battery/alternator testing and ask if the battery/alternator must be installed on the vehicle or removed during testing...
In one configuration...the Ammeter...current generated by the Alternator for charging the battery is measured in Amperes (thus an Ammeter measures Amperes).
In this configuration the Multi-meter is set to measure Current (Amperes) and is connected in series with the wire that goes between the battery and terminal B on the Alternator.
...by removing that wire at terminal B on the Alternator, connecting the black(-) lead of the Ammeter to that recently removed end of the wire and the red(+) lead of the Ammeter to terminal B...
NOTE: in this configuration, you are measuring significant amounts of current (10 amps!!). Be very careful! Current (not voltage) kills. If you are going to take this measurement, make sure it is set up correctly following the FSM guidelines, that the connections are tight, and the multi-meter is correctly set to measure Current (Amperes). I would install the multi-meter with the engine off, and after having installed it correctly, start the engine....and when uninstalling the meter...first turn the engine off. Also, make sure that your multi-meter can handle that amount of amperes...
The second configuration is to set the multi-meter to measure volts. After reconnecting the wire from the battery to terminal B on the Alternator, ground the black(-) lead of the Voltmeter and connect the red(+) lead of the voltmeter to terminal B on the Alternator. Make sure the multimeter is set to measure volts.
If you aren't comfortable taking these measurements, call local Autoparts stores to see if they do free battery/alternator testing and ask if the battery/alternator must be installed on the vehicle or removed during testing...
...or, you could skip those first two tests, since you said you already measured 12.9V at the battery (not sure how you configured the test to make that measurement) then see figures 9-35 to 9-37 for testing if the IC regulator is functioning correctly...
- Thread starter
- #168
Alright thanks!
This should narrow it down to the exact culprit right?
This should narrow it down to the exact culprit right?
Try running the tests on the IC regulator first (outlined in figures 9-35 to 9-37).
That will tell you if the regulator is operating within specs and/or if you need to further test the alternator.
- Thread starter
- #170
Okay going back to Carb for a bit.
When I accelerate really fast and then let off the gas the engine dies. BUT, if I do the same thing and throw on the choke really quickly it goes back to an idle.
Is this still an issue with getting the mixture/tuning right? Or something else?
Edit: and this is just when I have it sitting in my driveway
When I accelerate really fast and then let off the gas the engine dies. BUT, if I do the same thing and throw on the choke really quickly it goes back to an idle.
Is this still an issue with getting the mixture/tuning right? Or something else?
Edit: and this is just when I have it sitting in my driveway
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Looks like I have missed a few days of pages so don't know if you have checked this but have you looked at your fuel pump? Seems like you keep coming back to some sort of fuel starvation issue. Could be that your pump is mostly working unless you are under some sort of hard load and then it starts to sputter. Could still be some fuel mixture issue but you have done quite a bit of tuning for that. Did you ever get around to messing with the valves?
I would continue to assume that it is just a tune-up thing...keep working on finding the sweet spot between base timing, idle speed and idle mixture screws. Between the steps outlined in the Emissions FSM for tune-up and the procedure in the 'lean drop' or Jim C. modified 'lean drop' method, it takes a couple iterations to find the sweet spot.
Another thing that you could do to help you diagnose what is going on is to install a vac gauge in the cabin of the vehicle.
You can readily install one in the cabin by tapping into the A/C idle up port next to the brake booster port on the back of the intake manifold.
Run the 3mm line into the cabin through the hole in the firewall where the choke cable goes through. SunPro makes an inexpensive gauge (~$20 at Advance Auto or Pep Boys and the like).
Then find an appropriate place to install the gauge in the cabin. I cut a 2 1/8" hole to the right of the steering wheel.
Reading the vac as you drive will give you information about what is going on in the engine. See image below.
Any progress on the charging system trouble shooting? How'd the Alt Regulator test out?
What about the carb...still giving grief?
- Thread starter
- #174
Well, I just went for it and got a new Alt. Got it today when I got home from school and spent the remaining of today putting it in
had to get a different belt cause this Alt is quite different from factory. BUT it fit and it works! I let the pup idle for a bit and the charge light went off. and I checked the battery's V and it came out as a high 13. Thank the Lord for progress.
I think you are right about it just bring tuning issues with the carb. Cause it seems to be quite moody and works when it wants to. I'm fiddling with it when I get chances.
now I need tires terribly, the ones that are on the truck are worn too close to smooth. and the spare is the original from 85 lol. Which also means its as loud as hell to drive.
oh I realized I never let you guys see the full thing.. so enjoy! (the lighting is terrible but you get the idea)
had to get a different belt cause this Alt is quite different from factory. BUT it fit and it works! I let the pup idle for a bit and the charge light went off. and I checked the battery's V and it came out as a high 13. Thank the Lord for progress.
I think you are right about it just bring tuning issues with the carb. Cause it seems to be quite moody and works when it wants to. I'm fiddling with it when I get chances.
now I need tires terribly, the ones that are on the truck are worn too close to smooth. and the spare is the original from 85 lol. Which also means its as loud as hell to drive.
oh I realized I never let you guys see the full thing.. so enjoy! (the lighting is terrible but you get the idea)
If your leaning towards desmoging, I would get a Trollhole carb.
You should be able to switch the belt pulley from the old alternator onto the new alternator so that you can keep the stock belt size (width). Skinny belts tend to slip and begin squealing...
Yeah, keep honing your carb/tune-up skills, there should be very few reasons that would stop you from getting the Aisin carb to work correctly. Often times performance issues that we attribute to the carb can be either Emissions or vac (leaks) related or even just need to adjust the valves, etc.. So if you install a vac gauge (like the Sunpro I mentioned above), that will give you measurements you can use to help diagnose the performance issues.
I would install the gauge, run through the trouble shooting procedures for each Emissions system in the Emissions FSM, do a complete tune-up (including running the valves) and then decide whether or not to replace gaskets...and just do 'em all in one shot...down to the intake/exhaust manifold gasket(s), carb insulator gasket, all the EGR gaskets, new PCV grommet (clean OEM PCV valve by soaking in a little Seafoam in a plastic bag overnite) and all new vac hoses...then you would really know if there is a serious problem with the carb...
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That's the wrong alternator. It's for a cressida IIRC. Wrong (too small, multi-groove) pulley, and most damning is the solid state voltage regulator is in a location that jams it against a hot water hose, guaranteeing early regulator death.
You're welcome.
You're welcome.
- Thread starter
- #178
yeah i figured it wasn't right. but i made it work. It's got enough clearance so the regulator isn't hitting the hose.
I got a belt that works but I'll definitely hold on to the old one so I remember to get a legit alt next time.
I got a belt that works but I'll definitely hold on to the old one so I remember to get a legit alt next time.
Why not return the alternator now, while you still can, and get the correct one?
Here are two recent posts on installing a 62 alternator on a 60:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/alternator-altering.442901/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/62-alternator-on-a-60-can-it-be-done.818267/#post-9365671
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Or you can just use sites like ToyotaPartsZone/ToyotaPartsOverstock/RockAuto to purchase and OE/OE Replacement for cheap. I got my OE and OE Regulator for less than $100 shipped when I first got my cruiser 2yrs ago.
Like this one...
Like this one...
