Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)

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There's possibly some confusion here - or maybe it's just me who's confused.

The "vehicle specification" for the factory roof rack is indeed 154 LB.

Adding the FrontRunner rack does not change that (note the footnote at the end):

Unlike most roof racks, the Slimline II was designed and built specifically for off-road use. Manufactured with high density aluminum, the Front Runner Slimline II tray is rated to carry 300 kgs / 660 lbs and can withstand the stress of any adventure. *

The load support slats fit into a double walled aluminum extrusion channel on the side profiles and are secured via locking nuts. This patented design creates a joint support that is stronger than usual for a roof rack.

The Slimline II’s L-shaped rear and front slat design increases the strength of the entire rack, making the Slimline II the lightest and the strongest roof rack available.


(*the rack must always be loaded in accordance with the vehicle’s load rating specifications).

So... with or without the FrontRunner rack (or any rack, for that matter) the specified limit for loads on our roofs is the same - 154 LB.

Right?
I think so.

This article mentions 400 lbs for the 200 series, but maybe that’s a different country? “Locked and Loaded” by Scott Brady - loading and lashing
 
Once ya'll get these things operational can you weigh in on whether it adds wind noise at speed?

And as far as mounting something that needs more clearance over the fin you could always mount something to the rails that raises whatever you're tying down.
 
There's possibly some confusion here - or maybe it's just me who's confused.

The "vehicle specification" for the factory roof rack is indeed 154 LB.

Adding the FrontRunner rack does not change that (note the footnote at the end):

Unlike most roof racks, the Slimline II was designed and built specifically for off-road use. Manufactured with high density aluminum, the Front Runner Slimline II tray is rated to carry 300 kgs / 660 lbs and can withstand the stress of any adventure. *

The load support slats fit into a double walled aluminum extrusion channel on the side profiles and are secured via locking nuts. This patented design creates a joint support that is stronger than usual for a roof rack.

The Slimline II’s L-shaped rear and front slat design increases the strength of the entire rack, making the Slimline II the lightest and the strongest roof rack available.


(*the rack must always be loaded in accordance with the vehicle’s load rating specifications).

So... with or without the FrontRunner rack (or any rack, for that matter) the specified limit for loads on our roofs is the same - 154 LB.

Right?

Unsure where this is headed... I wasn't comparing the Front Runner to this option or saying it could load more, I was simply stating the load limit from the manual as a reminder for folks using this option.
 
150 lbs is more than I like to lift and load on the roof very often! I have used the rack for lumber, ladders, ski/snowboard rack and that is still a pain. Unless it is wet or dirty, i just throw it in the back now :) I’m 5’9”...short guy problens...
 
Unsure where this is headed... I wasn't comparing the Front Runner to this option or saying it could load more, I was simply stating the load limit from the manual as a reminder for folks using this option.

Not headed anywhere, I was just confused - thanks for the clarification.
 
150 lbs is more than I like to lift and load on the roof very often! I have used the rack for lumber, ladders, ski/snowboard rack and that is still a pain. Unless it is wet or dirty, i just throw it in the back now :) I’m 5’9”...short guy problens...
lol agreed, Wife and I recently took a two-week road trip. We were in a new hotel about every two days and we made a huge mistake putting all the wife's things into one piece of luggage and only having space to put it on the rack (baby crib and bouncer took up most of the rear inside space). Pretty sure I screamed from back pain every time I loaded/unloaded her luggage from the rack.
 
1/4" carriage bolts fit nicely into the 8020 profiles. Don't overtighten though, as they will rip the profile and will become free spinning while being stuck, which makes them a pain to remove.
 
They may say 154...but If that were a literal limit, no one could actually inhabit a rooftop tent! RTT can be over 200lbs all by itself. Then add two largish adults, and it’s supporting 500-700 total # on a regular basis. Seems pretty clear that Toyota is in hyper CYA mode with that number...or the thousands of RTTs throughout the world would be destroying roofs.

I suspect it might also have to do with Toyota’s concerns about raising GOG. But who knows. Clearly, tho, many after market regularly handle way more. :meh:
 
They may say 154...but If that were a literal limit, no one could actually inhabit a rooftop tent! RTT can be over 200lbs all by itself. Then add two largish adults, and it’s supporting 500-700 total # on a regular basis. Seems pretty clear that Toyota is in hyper CYA mode with that number...or the thousands of RTTs throughout the world would be destroying roofs.

I suspect it might also have to do with Toyota’s concerns about raising GOG. But who knows. Clearly, tho, many after market regularly handle way more. :meh:

It's a dynamic weight rating (ie. in motion). Static capability is always much higher.
 
The 154 lbs is also most likely the dynamic load while driving as well. Climbing in the tent after it is parked is a whole different animal with regards to load.
 
The 154 lbs is also most likely the dynamic load while driving as well. Climbing in the tent after it is parked is a whole different animal with regards to load.
Yeah, that’s what I was trying to get at… The idea was that it might be less about weight limits on the roof and mounts themselves and more about the dynamics Of driving...center of gravity, cornering, rollover, etc.
 
Thoughtful use for the t-slotted aluminum, I'm currently building my deck and drawer system out of the 10 Series square aluminum and components. 80/20 Inc also has Amazon and Ebay store fronts but I also bought some from Tnutz.com com. Just passing on some additional resources. Local Granger store said they could get some of the parts for me but the shipping was cheaper through the others.

 
Most aftermarket roof rack options are 70+ lbs. I know I have loaded mine down with over 100lbs of gear.
 
Thoughtful use for the t-slotted aluminum, I'm currently building my deck and drawer system out of the 10 Series square aluminum and components. 80/20 Inc also has Amazon and Ebay store fronts but I also bought some from Tnutz.com com. Just passing on some additional resources. Local Granger store said they could get some of the parts for me but the shipping was cheaper through the others.

Good point, I've also seen "scraps/leftovers" on eBay for real cheap. Come in all lengths, you'd just have to cut yourself which is easy.
 
Hey gang,

In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning.

Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day.

One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do that, I decided to instead get some T-slotted extruded aluminum bars from 8020.net.



I like this set up a lot because it’s super rigid and will allow me to use aftermarket accessories (such as front runner tie downs and “Stratchets”.

Note that I left my front OEM bar in place - because I did this there is no extra noise. This weekend I may try and take it off just to see what it’s like.

I chose black anodized because I didn’t want it to look too DIY. I also paid a few extra bucks for milled access holes to slide accessories into:

Here is a finished bar w/maxtrax mount:

The whole setup was $130. I will add a third and maybe 4th bar. Very happy!

Hi mate,

would you have the PN for the OEM roof bar you got at the front?
thanks in advance
 
@tbisaacs what is used in the rail channel? A bolt head?

A slide in nut thing-it’s their cheapest option


The oblong shape makes it a little finicky to slide along the channel but I managed. They do have tons of other options-including roll-in.
 
Hey gang,

In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning.

Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day.

One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do that, I decided to instead get some T-slotted extruded aluminum bars from 8020.net.

RvZ0mJx.jpg


I like this set up a lot because it’s super rigid and will allow me to use aftermarket accessories (such as front runner tie downs and “Stratchets”.

Note that I left my front OEM bar in place - because I did this there is no extra noise. This weekend I may try and take it off just to see what it’s like.

I chose black anodized because I didn’t want it to look too DIY. I also paid a few extra bucks for milled access holes to slide accessories into:

MdvIhbh.jpg


Here is a finished bar w/maxtrax mount:

lSXTwo1.jpg


The whole setup was $130. I will add a third and maybe 4th bar. Very happy!

ZgKHLyR.jpg
This is really a great idea. Opens up a lot of opportunities (e.g. lighting). On the other hand, it's now turned me on to this product which means yet more stuff I don't really need to buy/build but will anyway.
 
Hey gang,

In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning.

Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day.

One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do that, I decided to instead get some T-slotted extruded aluminum bars from 8020.net.

RvZ0mJx.jpg


I like this set up a lot because it’s super rigid and will allow me to use aftermarket accessories (such as front runner tie downs and “Stratchets”.

Note that I left my front OEM bar in place - because I did this there is no extra noise. This weekend I may try and take it off just to see what it’s like.

I chose black anodized because I didn’t want it to look too DIY. I also paid a few extra bucks for milled access holes to slide accessories into:

MdvIhbh.jpg


Here is a finished bar w/maxtrax mount:

lSXTwo1.jpg


The whole setup was $130. I will add a third and maybe 4th bar. Very happy!

ZgKHLyR.jpg

That is awesome!! I had considered doing the same but the LX Roof rack is shorter than the LC roof rack and I couldn't see spending $200-300 on a LC rack, plus the 8020 hardware and I got tired of hunting for a used OEM take off and found a great deal on my Prinsu.

Another thing I love is the round access holes at the edges so you can insert attachment points and accessories without removing the rails! Brilliant!

Great work, this is a very cool way to add tons of functionality and keep the OEM look.
 
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