Get 40 moving 1st time in 7 years

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Jul 31, 2005
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Honolulu, HI
Well, I changed the plugs and sprayed some oil in there while was at it. Changed the oil and filter. Starts easy and sounds great. Now, the 2 of the 4 brake drums are frozen, and the clutch is probably rusted onto the flywheel, cause I have to turn it off to shift. The drums are frozen onto the pads it seems, cause it dont come off.
Do you have any recomendations as to how to get the drum off? I'm going to weld some bars to the drum and whack it off with a hammer, and replace the drum. I do plan on changing all 8 :rolleyes: brake cylinders at this time. My main concern is the clutch. I really dont like my fully manual transmission. ;) Any sugguestions as to how to unstickit? Some people have said hitting it with knocks from the starter might budge it, or driving it around could free it up. If you have any suguestions as to other services I might do to this noble beast before I drive it around, they will be much appreciated. Yes, I do plan on flushing the rad. And preference to the chemicals used?
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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Feb 1, 2002
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If you are going to replace all the wheel cylinders then I'd maybe open the bleeders and commence to whacking. Pull the cover and see if the bearing is disengaging the pressure plate. If you add any oily chems to the disc you will surely to have to replace it. What a "sticky" situation (pun intended) hehehe.
 
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Jul 18, 2005
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Wellington, NZ
To free up a stuck clutch:
(first check the hyralics are working)
Put the back up on stands.
Put it into 4th gear.
Start it in gear.
Put your foot on the clutch, give it some gas and then stab the brakes repeatedly.
Ussually works :)

To remove the drum (if it's a discard) - angle grinder at 3 oclock and 9 oclock. Cut the rim of the drum (the face on the shoes) both sides.
Then you can just peel it off...
 

Pinion

 
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Yup. Go get in a bad mood, drink some tequila and wail on the drums with a 2-3# mallet. :D

Maybe open up the inspection cover from the bottom and hit the clutch with some PBlaster and then follow it up by doucheing the works with brake cleaner and then water to get the Blaster off.
 
Joined
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Honolulu, HI
HawkDriver said:
If you are going to replace all the wheel cylinders then I'd maybe open the bleeders and commence to whacking. Pull the cover and see if the bearing is disengaging the pressure plate. If you add any oily chems to the disc you will surely to have to replace it. What a "sticky" situation (pun intended) hehehe.
Ok, open the bleeders, so the pistons let go? And whack what, the drums? I think so but...

Pull the clutch cover? I think so again but you know....
Check if the stuff is moving inside. k, think I got it. and wouldnt it be a "slippery" situation? :)
 
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Pinion said:
Yup. Go get in a bad mood, drink some tequila and wail on the drums with a 2-3# mallet. :D

Maybe open up the inspection cover from the bottom and hit the clutch with some PBlaster and then follow it up by doucheing the works with brake cleaner and then water to get the Blaster off.
PBlaster? I don't think I've heard of that one yet. So if I dumped loads of aresol and brake cleaner on the clutch or brake drums it would take the oily stuff off?
Hmm... maybe I could pour tequila on my cruiser's ailments. Do any of your guy's crusiers like tequila?
 
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Jul 31, 2005
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Honolulu, HI
andrewfarmer said:
To free up a stuck clutch:
(first check the hyralics are working)
Put the back up on stands.
Put it into 4th gear.
Start it in gear.
Put your foot on the clutch, give it some gas and then stab the brakes repeatedly.
Ussually works :)

To remove the drum (if it's a discard) - angle grinder at 3 oclock and 9 oclock. Cut the rim of the drum (the face on the shoes) both sides.
Then you can just peel it off...

I found you answer particularly helpful, not that I'm saying that the others answers wern't useful and fun to read. :)
So, I'll put the rear on stands making sure its in 2H put it into 3re gear of my 3 speed. Then Ill crank er up, hold the clutch in while alternately giving it gas and nailing my brakes. Should I do this before or after I change the brakes?

Keep the sugguestions comming! esp about the fluids and such.
 

nuclearlemon

not an addict
Moderator
 
 
Joined
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meh-ico, colorado
player said:
Ok, open the bleeders, so the pistons let go? And whack what, the drums? I think so but...
QUOTE]
yep...if you let it bleed out, and pound on the drum, there's a possibility that the cylinders will back off.
 
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Ah, that could save me some time. Hm. Well.. if I get the drums off some pounding, could I just get them turned? Or would they be damaged?

--Trevor
 
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player said:
I found you answer particularly helpful, not that I'm saying that the others answers wern't useful and fun to read. :)
So, I'll put the rear on stands making sure its in 2H put it into 3re gear of my 3 speed. Then Ill crank er up, hold the clutch in while alternately giving it gas and nailing my brakes. Should I do this before or after I change the brakes?
No. You keep the gas on, the clutch in and stab the brakes.
(I've done this on a number of vehicles now.)
Make sure the front wheels are well chocked!

Try if with brakes as is - might even help them. If they wont stop/slow the wheels you'll need to fix them then try again...
 
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ok, so I hold the gas, the clutch, and keep stabbing the brakes. I need an extra foot. :p Oh, I could use the throttle hold cable. I knew there was a good use for it! So, how high of an rpm should it be at? And what is the F155's theoretical redline anyway?
 
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Afton VA
In case it helps...

On my 78, the rear drums were frozen to the axel (not the brake pads). I had to remove the axel with the drum on it. Then I set it up on the Wheel Studs (w/ the nuts on the end) and soaked it with PB blaster and hit it with a big hammer. It finially broke loose.
 

REZARF

 
 
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Bozeman, MT
Player-

Seriously take your time, but keep smacking the drums and they will break free. Also, if you have access to heat (torch) then heat them up at the wheel studs and I bet it pops free with a few blows.

Rezarf <><
 
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Wow, thats a lot of CruserWisdom. So heat em up at the wheel studs. Those are the stuff the lug nuts bolt onto right?

And I sure hope I dont have to take apart the axel. If I do, you can bet you'll hear about it. :-D

btw, rezarf, whats a thornbird?
 
Joined
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The Sunshine State
welll i have no clue about the 40s and someone would prob have said it by now....but check it out anyway...pull the wheel and look at the face of the drum. if there is a threaded hole there just find a long bolt....say 3 inches or so and thread it in. it will pop the drum right off easy cheesy but it might just be a 60s thing...
 
Joined
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Indianapolis, Indiana
If the rear axles spins then the shoes are not frozen to the drums, and thats a good thing. You might try backing the adjusters off, but after 7 yrs of sitting they mat be frozen. Pulling the bleeders is a good idea, and spray down the center hole where the drum fits over the axle shaft, that most likely where you are stuck at. I have beat on drums pretty hard with a smaller sledge, when they are ready to come off, they will!
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2005
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281
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NY
player said:
ah, so as long as stop short of a sledge hammer, i should be alright...
ok. anymore tips?
I used a 5lb sledge hammer I first tried with a rubber mallet... no go

but the 5 pounder loosened the drums with the help of some PB on the studs and wherever I can spray it in
don't be afraid just wack away go all around the edge and then right in the front between the studs
 
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