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- #101
Builds Gen. Waverly (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter majdomo
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Ok. Thanks. That is the newest 90366-17007 number. It's a different bearing than the 90366-17001 original, but it's the same as what you will receive in the Toyota box for the 17007.
I guess Toyota decided to go to the Hi-Capacity bearing....
Maybe someone else knows?
@ToyotaMatt knows everything.... Just ask him
I guess Toyota decided to go to the Hi-Capacity bearing....
Maybe someone else knows?
@ToyotaMatt knows everything.... Just ask him
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- #103
Cool. It was part of the kit from Cruiser Teq, fits fine and all that.Ok. Thanks. That is the newest 90366-17007 number. It's a different bearing than the 90366-17001 original, but it's the same as what you will receive in the Toyota box for the 17007.
I guess Toyota decided to go to the Hi-Capacity bearing....
Maybe someone else knows?
@ToyotaMatt knows everything.... Just ask him
Tear down and cleaning of the captain’s side complete. The birf moves fine even though it was basically without grease, at least it had the gear oil lubricating it. Cleaned up a metric ton of crap off the knuckle housing and steering arm.
Also whoever engineered the brake line attached to the dust cover with easy to rust and soft-metal hard lines had a few too many sake’s at lunch that day. Terrible. But apart and clean and ready to reassemble next week.
Yup. That why I removed my backing plate with Mark's backing plate eliminator.
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- #106
Knuckle rebuild complete, along with new gear oil. I took a little bit of grease out of the knuckle after taking that photo, but going slow and finishing it up today was a great way to wrap up the first half of my vacation. Yes, this is what I do on vacation. 
It looks like the rear pinion seal is leaking, not bad but enough to make the housing wet. I was hoping that I could just swap out the seal and be on my merry way, but it appears this isn't the case given the dreaded crush sleeve. Will do some research but it appears the best way to do this is to pull apart the entire third? Seems odd but maybe not..
It looks like the rear pinion seal is leaking, not bad but enough to make the housing wet. I was hoping that I could just swap out the seal and be on my merry way, but it appears this isn't the case given the dreaded crush sleeve. Will do some research but it appears the best way to do this is to pull apart the entire third? Seems odd but maybe not..
You can replace the seal if you count or otherwise mark where the nut was and carefully replace, making sure not to further compress the sleeve spacer. A little blue loctite on the nut is good.
Be aware Marlin Crawler now makes a HD Marlin seal for the LC Pinion.
Be aware Marlin Crawler now makes a HD Marlin seal for the LC Pinion.
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- #108
Excellent. Research brings up about 50/50 replace / reuse. Will probably just mark it, count turns, and go with the Marlin seal. May want to see if I can figure on other parts before placing the order, would like to pull the rear drums to just check for other leaks. Nothing on the backing plates indicates an issue, but also not sure where my brake clunk is coming from and just want to take a peek before bleeding the brakes and getting back on the road.
EDIT - pulling breathers and cleaning up gunk first to make sure it's not just building up pressure and pushing it past the seal... for now. Plugged-up breathers caused my freshly re-sealed steering box on the 40 to leak like I'd never replaced the seals. Pulled the breather, cleaned the bejeezus out of it and all was well.
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This topic is the most Critical thing you need to make happen
Trash the oem rinky dinky inner axle seals
They fail that is why all solid front t toyota axles piss oooze
Gear oil mixes the moly EP grease
The Marlin double lip at actually OEM YAHMAH salt water series II
Generation 1979-early 2000’ lower unit prop
Shaft seals …
I mic,d one and dam if it’s ain’t same as the sealing surface OD on the inner shaft of the shaft u slide on in there ….
And if anyone is not yet aware TOYOTA crated and owns outright YAMAHA motor corp. japan Ltd .
Well now you have been Enlightened that they were dreamed up to be Toyota , Own in-house Engine design team entity …
They infact still are , they were who used the leased blue prints plans of the GM straight 6 to Clone it , and the JIS and JDM tweaks to be and become the FJ25 / FJ40 Siamese F ….
They absolutely designed both John,s and my 3F-E’s …..
The 2F and F1.5
1FZ-FE
My 6/05 SUPER HILUX build has a YAMAHA unique 2UZ-FE in her with the TUNING FORKS tridents logos cast on rear of each head same as Canada YAMA-Hauler Special limited editions had too
It’s a fascinating tech magic carpet ride to google and get lost into late one Friday night
Trust me it is …!
Anyway , relevant tech here Yamaha double lips from
Marlin crawlers I swear my
%
I bet you all like that JDM Jazz there …
Trash the oem rinky dinky inner axle seals
They fail that is why all solid front t toyota axles piss oooze
Gear oil mixes the moly EP grease
The Marlin double lip at actually OEM YAHMAH salt water series II
Generation 1979-early 2000’ lower unit prop
Shaft seals …
I mic,d one and dam if it’s ain’t same as the sealing surface OD on the inner shaft of the shaft u slide on in there ….
And if anyone is not yet aware TOYOTA crated and owns outright YAMAHA motor corp. japan Ltd .
Well now you have been Enlightened that they were dreamed up to be Toyota , Own in-house Engine design team entity …
They infact still are , they were who used the leased blue prints plans of the GM straight 6 to Clone it , and the JIS and JDM tweaks to be and become the FJ25 / FJ40 Siamese F ….
They absolutely designed both John,s and my 3F-E’s …..
The 2F and F1.5
1FZ-FE
My 6/05 SUPER HILUX build has a YAMAHA unique 2UZ-FE in her with the TUNING FORKS tridents logos cast on rear of each head same as Canada YAMA-Hauler Special limited editions had too
It’s a fascinating tech magic carpet ride to google and get lost into late one Friday night
Trust me it is …!
Anyway , relevant tech here Yamaha double lips from
Marlin crawlers I swear my
% I bet you all like that JDM Jazz there …
What he said.
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- #111
Brakes are bled with my son's assistance, test drive around the block was positive and successful. However, I still have my brake pedal "clunk". Crawling under the truck upon my return I asked my son to hit the brakes again while I held on to the very bottom (rod-attached) end of the LSPV, and found my clunk. It feels like there's a sticking point inside the valve, then something inside breaks past it and allows the fluid to go to the rear brakes. Upon bleeding it, a bunch of nasty, black-brownish brake fluid came out. I bled it until clean, but my initial guess is that it needs replacing, just not today. All the bolts and lines are rusted, so I get that to look forward to. Yay.
Other stuff - rear axle breather is caked with crud, so that's coming off and getting cleaned up. New front speakers installed, 5.25" Pioneers. I Dremel'd the old speaker out of their 3-point brackets, and drilled some holes in that to secure the new speakers. This brings the speakers just about 1/4" inboard so that the window clears the driver, without having to drill holes in the door. Sound good, about the same or maybe a little cleaner. The passenger side OE speaker was blown, this fixed that problem.
Am trying to get some rest this week, since once I go back to work it's going to be full-on through the end of the year. May get a one-off Friday here and there but not likely...
Other stuff - rear axle breather is caked with crud, so that's coming off and getting cleaned up. New front speakers installed, 5.25" Pioneers. I Dremel'd the old speaker out of their 3-point brackets, and drilled some holes in that to secure the new speakers. This brings the speakers just about 1/4" inboard so that the window clears the driver, without having to drill holes in the door. Sound good, about the same or maybe a little cleaner. The passenger side OE speaker was blown, this fixed that problem.
Am trying to get some rest this week, since once I go back to work it's going to be full-on through the end of the year. May get a one-off Friday here and there but not likely...
- Thread starter
- #112
More on the LSPV. Since mine seems to be sticking internally, I was looking to maybe get a good used unit from Mark @65swb45, when he suggested to begin with cleaning the one on there. Some additional searching this morning turned up this great tech from 2009. Mr. T sells rebuild kits for the external bushes (04477-60010) but nothing on the internals. The externals look ok for now, but I'm sure will crumble to dust once I start taking them apart. I'm also fresh out of PB, so will stop down at the store later today and start dousing the rusty connections with some penetrant.
Ordered some new 6.5" speakers for the rear, and plan to get some work done today on the new head unit and dash bezel. I have a harness I harvested from a junkyard car, will solder that in and see if I can't get it done today.
Ordered some new 6.5" speakers for the rear, and plan to get some work done today on the new head unit and dash bezel. I have a harness I harvested from a junkyard car, will solder that in and see if I can't get it done today.
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Load Sensing Proportioning Valve LSPV for Land Cruiser FJ62
Load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV). Prevents rear brake lock-up. Fits: '88 to '90 U.S. spec Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 8/'80 to 8/'87 non-US FJ60, HJ60, FJ62 Corresponds to OEM part # 47910-60060.
www.cityracerllc.com
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- #114
Thanks! The store is closed until 8/1, and I have some time, so... we'll see though. A good backup plan if it all goes south.Load Sensing Proportioning Valve LSPV for Land Cruiser FJ62
Load sensing proportioning valve (LSPV). Prevents rear brake lock-up. Fits: '88 to '90 U.S. spec Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 8/'80 to 8/'87 non-US FJ60, HJ60, FJ62 Corresponds to OEM part # 47910-60060.www.cityracerllc.com
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- #115
Early work on dash bezel and radio this am. The bezel I’d purchased just after getting the rig had a small crack in it (seller was great about disclosing), so patched that up with some 2-part epoxy and transferred over all of my dash instruments to the new bezel, using the tailgate as a workbench.
I also had a couple of options on the radio. The first was a 1989 version of the single-DIN head unit that may have come on the 62 at some point. That one was an eBay special, where the radio itself worked fine but the lights on the faceplate didn’t. I took some time pulling the faceplate off and replacing the small lights, but no luck with them lighting up once I was done. Oh well. If anyone’s interested in it, it’s theirs for shipping.
I also had a double-DIN head unit pulled from a 1998 Sienna, which has a six disc changer and a plug in the back for an external changer. This plug is key, since Crux sells a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into that inlet and operates your phone as though it’s a CD changer. I’ve had this on the 80 and a couple 3rd gens now, and it works great.
PO’s mechanic also did me a solid by not chopping the OE plugs off the harness. Instead, they got a female end to the OE plugs and wired the Alpine harness into that. This made the install much, much easier as I just avoided the 2 hours of soldering and swearing that I endured on the last 3rd gen doing this same job.
Here’s what she looks like now, all hooked up and working, note the small crack in the bezel. That cigarette lighter looks gross, I need to clean that.
Much better, gauges all work too, not always a guarantee when pulling stuff apart.
LSPV is marinating in PB right now. May get after that sometime tomorrow or next week.
I also had a couple of options on the radio. The first was a 1989 version of the single-DIN head unit that may have come on the 62 at some point. That one was an eBay special, where the radio itself worked fine but the lights on the faceplate didn’t. I took some time pulling the faceplate off and replacing the small lights, but no luck with them lighting up once I was done. Oh well. If anyone’s interested in it, it’s theirs for shipping.
I also had a double-DIN head unit pulled from a 1998 Sienna, which has a six disc changer and a plug in the back for an external changer. This plug is key, since Crux sells a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into that inlet and operates your phone as though it’s a CD changer. I’ve had this on the 80 and a couple 3rd gens now, and it works great.
PO’s mechanic also did me a solid by not chopping the OE plugs off the harness. Instead, they got a female end to the OE plugs and wired the Alpine harness into that. This made the install much, much easier as I just avoided the 2 hours of soldering and swearing that I endured on the last 3rd gen doing this same job.
Here’s what she looks like now, all hooked up and working, note the small crack in the bezel. That cigarette lighter looks gross, I need to clean that.
Much better, gauges all work too, not always a guarantee when pulling stuff apart.
LSPV is marinating in PB right now. May get after that sometime tomorrow or next week.
Ugh.
Jason @TRAIL TAILOR makes a nice C-Channel kit that seems to be bolt-in. Could prolly be welded in, too, if you have a welder. I may be recalling incorrectly, but I thought there was a weld-in kit too, but don't see it anymore.
Jason @TRAIL TAILOR makes a nice C-Channel kit that seems to be bolt-in. Could prolly be welded in, too, if you have a welder. I may be recalling incorrectly, but I thought there was a weld-in kit too, but don't see it anymore.
C-Channel Kit 60 Series
Toyota Land Cruiser 60 series rear C-Channel Kit Strengthen up that rusty rear frame 3/16" channel reinforcement rails with Grade 8 hardware Bare metal One kit includes a right and a left side
trail-tailor.com
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- #120
I've seen @TRAIL TAILOR 's kit and read a few threads on folks installing it themselves. It seems pretty straightforward but rather involved, and I'm a little concerned that there are a couple sections just before and after the shackle hanger that look rusted through the rail, not just the reinforcement. I don't have a welder and those will need some patching for sure, so best to probably leave that job to a pro. Will look for shops close by who do body work and fabrication... LA recommendations welcome!Ugh.
Jason @TRAIL TAILOR makes a nice C-Channel kit that seems to be bolt-in. Could prolly be welded in, too, if you have a welder. I may be recalling incorrectly, but I thought there was a weld-in kit too, but don't see it anymore.
C-Channel Kit 60 Series
Toyota Land Cruiser 60 series rear C-Channel Kit Strengthen up that rusty rear frame 3/16" channel reinforcement rails with Grade 8 hardware Bare metal One kit includes a right and a left sidetrail-tailor.com
The passenger side reinforcement looks all pillowy too, and I threw out about 1/4 of it today as it flaked into my eyes and on the floor as I pounded out that side's shackle, but the rail itself looks ok. That one I got finished, and the amount of material I had to sweep up gave me pause on the driver's side, so I stopped.
I also tried to get after the pin hangers too, but those are pretty solidly in there, so they will have to wait for now. Started working on the rear bumper, ended up snapping 3 bolts trying to pull them out. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, as long as it's not the few that thread into the frame. There are two bolts under the top of the middle of the bumper which look impossible to get to, so will research how this afternoon.
In other news, took down my HF and FM antennas in prep for a roof install this week. So fun! Will be working to research a new antenna that is resonant on 40m and below. I had a trap dipole strung over the house, but the only reason I wanted something that big was to get on 80m, and not only did it not work that great but 80 seems pretty whatever. 40 / 20 / 15 / 10 plus 2m / 70cm is plenty for contests, DX, emergency response, and local repeater use.
EDIT - ordered kit from @TRAIL TAILOR . Regardless of if I do it or hire it out, it's needed to make me feel better about driving it anywhere further than to work and back. Always glad to support vendors like Jason who keep our rigs on the road!
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