Builds GCRad1's 1992 ADV80 LAND CRUISER (3 Viewers)

[GCRad1]

Shifter crossover bar - rubber boot

Another item to replace once I get the part number sorted and ordered.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/585049-shifter-under-console-rubber-boot-part.html

 

[Kernal]

Just found this thread, great photography.

 

[jdsuther]

Classic. I was just looking at that same boot in my cruiser. It's fine when in park, but when I'm driving down the road I noticed it was torn.
Might have to add it to my parts list.

Today my radiator is getting changed out. Found a crack in the plastic OEM tank. Replacing it with a 160 dollar cheapy. I will see how long it lasts.

 

[GCRad1]

thank you Kernal!

just found this thread, great photography.

 

[GCRad1]

JDSuther - I know HU!? Crazy when you see the ground moving through your floor - not on a motorcycle. SO MUCH HEAT comes up through this hole too so I have to get this fixed! The radiator was the first thing I had to fix when I bought this rig.

Classic. I was just looking at that same boot in my cruiser. It's fine when in park, but when I'm driving down the road I noticed it was torn.
Might have to add it to my parts list.

Today my radiator is getting changed out. Found a crack in the plastic OEM tank. Replacing it with a 160 dollar cheapy. I will see how long it lasts.

 

[GCRad1]

Still working on the A/C. I finally cracked open the "black box" from under the dash and removed the core. It was not as bad as I had mentally prepaired myself for. I'm still floating with confidence due to alia176's A/C thread! ;p

Yes, that is a yellow Pelican 1550 posing as the limiting space for tools in the ADV80. More on that later.

 

[GCRad1]

A/C Self Service

Finally got on the phone with CoolStream Auto Air Conditioning Parts and spoke with Rex about the items I would need.

My factory Denso Cooler Expansion Valve [Toyota #88515-33010-83] [Denso #047500-1330] will get replaced with a Denso #475-0107.


I will be replacing the following as well:

Condensor Dryer. Rex said, "to not replace this is like replacing the engine's oil, but not the oil filter." NOTED!
R12 Shrader Valves
O-Ring Kit

And he asked, Since I was servicing my whole A/C system to check my "mini-radiator" for leaks.
I forget the term he used for this part, but I didn't know that part-term so he said, "mini-radiator" and I knew what he was talking about!

Stuck my mini-rad in the bucket.

Ghetto-delux makeshift pressurized air system hookup.

Put some pressure on it.

SWEEEET! NO BUBBLES!!! That saves a bunch of money!!!!

OK, ordering parts next week!

 

[GCRad1]

While I am waiting on myself to order the A/C parts that I need, I have a window of time to spend on the floor project that I already started with the carpet removal. I got some Cascade Audio Engineering VB-1X & TG-1 Thermaguard material to use as well. But before we get into that, there is the rear heater that sits under the front passengers seat that needs to be removed and cleaned out as the previous owner seemed to have left me some crumbs, money and trash.

What you do not see from the top side is that the heater has two hoses from underneath that will need to be disconnected. You will need to get a bucket to catch the antifreeze if you are not looking to make a mess all over your driveway.

Back on the topside, you can see the mess I have discovered under the heater unit:

The floor gets a thorough cleaning!

Now for the fun stuff!!!

Cascade Audio Engineering VB-1X & TG-1 Thermaguard

Cascade Audio Engineering VB-1X Liquid Vibration Damping Compound
Red more about it here: VB-1X Liquid Damping Compound For Boats

The Cascade Audio Engineering VB-1X is the first layer and goes on in a blue purple color and dries to black. This is for sound damping.

What I am really on about is the Cascade Audio Engineering TG-1 Thermaguard for HEAT!!! I recorded heat temperatures of 138 degrees coming off the transmission housing on the drivers side! So my thought is to give my A/C all the advantage I can by blocking as much of this heat as possible. Read more about it here: TG-1 keeps your vehicle cool and comfortable!

So I get after it!

 

[GCRad1]

While the first coat of TG-1 is drying, I take the heater fan apart as every time I turned it on, I got a couple of rattles from something loose inside.

The culprit and tell-tell sign that this rig has had a broken window as my little rattle is a couple of pieces of broken glass.

I give the pan a good cleaning:

Scrub the fan while I am at it too! When will be the next time I'm ever going to be back in here? But you never know...

For instance, does anyone know if this sensor looks correct? When I opened it up, it had some crust on it and I do not know if there was some type of coating that is suppose to be on here, or if it was truly just some random crust as it had an almost ceramic type feel to it????

It's all back together and going back in:

Cascade Audio Engineering sound and thermal coat - round one is complete. I will be doing another coat later once I get the shift plate gasket replaced and the chance to coat that area under neither there as well. I will also take a temp test with one coat and see what that does.

 

[GCRad1]

Temp Gun Readings

Prior to installing the Cascade Audio Engineering sound and thermal coatings I recorded 138F degrees coming off the transmission housing. This is the temp recorded with the interior carpet removed. The transmission is so large and puts off all this heat, I wanted to see if I could make it cooler inside just by keeping the heat from the motor/transmission at bay.

I conducted the test a couple of days in a row to see if there was any variance. Our weather has been consistent, but I would have to do this test over several different times during the day at various temperatures to get a thorough data collection. But we all have jobs here...

After the coatings:
The 116F temp was recorded while driving to work.
The 119F temp was recorded while sitting at the light right before I pull into work.

Before the coatings:
The previous 138F temp was recorded while driving to work and I did not think to test while sitting at the light at that time. With that, if you take this 138F temp and subtract the 119F temp, you still have a 19 degree reduction in heat.
Not bad! I am going to do another coat of the Cascade Audio Engineering's TG-1 Thermalcoat around the transmission housing once I replace the shifter gasket, so we will see if by just adding more material, will it result lower temperatures?

I'm happy with it so far!

 

[GCRad1]

retreat 20 / punt 60

So, my Check Engine Light has came on today and my Oil Pressure and Water Temperature gauges decided to stop working.

I checked the fuses and they are all good...

I need to find that paperclip code check thread...

 

[GCRad1]

Paper Clip Engine Code Reading

I LOVE IH8MUD.com!!!
Then I'm hating Mud with this FRAM advertisement that keeps popping up and over my window and I can not even see the buttons and I keep trying to click the advertisement off and it keeps popping up!!!! I'm all about advertising, but this is silly ridiculous!!!

OK, on with my post... after a a hundred click off's!

Post #6 of the FAQ has the answers to the Paper Clip Check Engine Test:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/84888-faq-80-lx450-mar-2012-added-diff-actuator-overhaul.html#post1012356

So I get after doing the test per the FAQ -
91-95 Land Cruisers can pull the code with the paperclip method:

I do a little more digging in another thread and find a diagram and print it out so I can cross reference in realtime under the hood.


I locate the little box on the back firewall:

What in the great crustification is all this!?!?!? Not sure if everyone else has the same white grease looking stuff, or at least that is what I hope it is...

Sorry for the crappy photos, but I was just trying to get this done and using my cell phone for a camera - weaksauce excuse:

I inserted one end of the paper clip in the E1 hole and one end in the TE1 hole. BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GUESS ON THIS.

Pop into the truck and turn the key to the on position - do not start. I watch the engine light flash: count the flashes to get a 2 digit code. the flash sequences are sapareted by a 1.5 second pause. If there are 2 codes there will be a 2.5 second pause between each fresh code.

25 / 26 was what I got.

Land Speeder has a thread with the ODB1 Codes:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/186150-trouble-pulling-codes-realtime-help-appreciated.html#post4739334


So, I have a wacky issue to sort out:
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.

ODB1 Engine Code 25 & 26 - What do I need to do?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/601752-odb1-engine-code-25-26-what-do-i-need-do.html#post7713044

 

[mr jits]

Too bad you're in the Republik of Kalifornia. It looks to me like it's time to desmog and get rid of some of the 3fe's pesky vacuum lines.

 

[GCRad1]

Coolstream A/C Parts for the ADV80 arrived!!!

I'm on my way to having A/C in the Land Cruiser - FINALLY! Only after 4-years as I bought this rig back in July of 2008. Again, stoked on alia176's thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/296748-c-system-how-remove-cooling-unit-evaporator-expansion-valve.html as that is the thread where I found out about Coolstream!

Make sure to see their IH8MUD Pricing for parts: http://coolstreamac.com/images/LandCruiser.pdf

 

[GCRad1]

Lower Shifter Boot

I finally got around to ordering the boot!
And I got a package yesterday!

I got a used lower shifter boot Specter P#: 065-045B-U $25 used or $51.70 new. I went for the used one.

Here is the page I ordered it from:
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Search On pagetitle2...

Here is the exploded view diagram page / part #045 in the FJ80 section:
Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 065 Land Cruiser Automatic Transmissions


Now I am in business to get on with my floor project!

Another item to replace once I get the part number sorted and ordered.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/585049-shifter-under-console-rubber-boot-part.html

 

[angerhater]

GC...wouldnt the thermalpaint work better on the bottom of the truck?....to prevent the transfer of heat to the metal? maybe immbed some aluminum foil while its tacky to reflect some heat too...( yeah, kinda ghetto ...but if it works...)
the white lithium grease on the diagnostics connector is factory, keeps moisture out and corrosion at bay...i also spray it on my battery terminals

 

[Fraglerock]

Just read through your entire thread, very cool. I really enjoyed reading about your trips as well.

Question about the liquid vibration compound, has it helped with the road noise at all? Very interesting product.

 

[GCRad1]

Hello Fraglerock!

Yes, the sound dampning compound does help and while I do not have a db-meter, I can not give you a scientific number. But in all my years of car audio experience, it does help. Without the carpet back in the truck yet, it is very noticable! I'm looking forward to getting it all buttoned back up for luxurious silence!

Thanks for you question!

Just read through your entire thread, very cool. I really enjoyed reading about your trips as well.

Question about the liquid vibration compound, has it helped with the road noise at all? Very interesting product.

 

[Fraglerock]

Hello Fraglerock!

Yes, the sound dampning compound does help and while I do not have a db-meter, I can not give you a scientific number. But in all my years of car audio experience, it does help. Without the carpet back in the truck yet, it is very noticable! I'm looking forward to getting it all buttoned back up for luxurious silence!

Thanks for you question!

Right on, thanks for your response!

 

[GCRad1]

Hello angerhater,
Yes, the sound dampning material will also work from the bottom side of the truck. But in order to do a proper job, I will have some massive cleaning to do under there and it would be even better if I could drop the massive transmission out of the way. But I remember the guys at YotaMasters telling me that if ever I was to do a tranny job, they would be unable to do it due to them not having a large enough transmission jack for the massvie 80-series transmission.

So I will do the best job possible from the top side and at some point address the underside as best as possible without removing the transmission.

I'm sure I can get it sorted as this is what I did on my 2002 Subaru WRX wagon pictured above. I used this same material to help cut heat as the turbo downpipe runs on the backside of the motor against the firewall and puts a lot of heat flowing across the transmission wall. I wanted to cut heat as best possible.

And if money grew from trees, I would do the whole firewall and tranny tunnel with Gold Reflective Film which is an aero-space material capable of reflecting 78% of all radiant heat!
Read / order here: http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr51.htm
Imagine the F1-bling-bling it would add to the engine compartment too!

GC...wouldnt the thermalpaint work better on the bottom of the truck?....to prevent the transfer of heat to the metal? maybe immbed some aluminum foil while its tacky to reflect some heat too...( yeah, kinda ghetto ...but if it works...)
the white lithium grease on the diagnostics connector is factory, keeps moisture out and corrosion at bay...i also spray it on my battery terminals