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- #21
It is both highway and city.
Well the needle is on empty (not just the light on, actually on empty) and it only takes between 19-20 gallons.
Gas Mileage Info
- Thread starter dtt255
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It is both highway and city.
Well the needle is on empty (not just the light on, actually on empty) and it only takes between 19-20 gallons.
hey dtt...i'm not being a smartass but i had the thought..if the electronic sensor is screwed up on your 200 saying the tank is mt and you still have 5 gallons (toyota says 25.4) then the computer reading might be wrong for the average. Sometime when you are going on a highway cruise fill up the old way and fill up when you get back and see what you come up with. I am interested in the highway mpg. I like to have some fun once in a while but I am looking at a daily driver so am a little concerned. Thanks
It's common for Toyotas to have a pessimistic needle/indicator light, helps to keep you from running out of fuel. Rest assured, that if your manual says you have a 25.4 gallon tank, then you do have a 25.4 gallon tank. 
I moved from L.A. to Phoenix last November. My mileage went down 2+ MPG. I did not realize the gas here is oxygenated in winter so did a bunch of pm that did not change the mileage. (02 sensors, plugs rotor cap, air filter etc)
In spring it went up and it went back down this winter.
In spring it went up and it went back down this winter.
How much gas?
Has anybody tried to run it out of gas to see if it really holds 25 gallons? I ran it past empty the other night and well past where the computer said I had 0 miles to empty and still couldn't put more than 19.5 gallons in the thing. I'd like to have my extra 5 gals back that the manual suggests.
Has anybody tried to run it out of gas to see if it really holds 25 gallons? I ran it past empty the other night and well past where the computer said I had 0 miles to empty and still couldn't put more than 19.5 gallons in the thing. I'd like to have my extra 5 gals back that the manual suggests.
Do you guys really use 91? Do you notice the difference? The LC200 only requires 87.
I have tried 91 several times, and I feel that I fill up less, meaning that I'm getting more MPG. The info screen fluctioates so much that I can't really trust it. Some tanks I get 8, some I get 12, and sometimes I get 15.
So what do you run?
I have tried 91 several times, and I feel that I fill up less, meaning that I'm getting more MPG. The info screen fluctioates so much that I can't really trust it. Some tanks I get 8, some I get 12, and sometimes I get 15.
So what do you run?
87 and it runs fine except that I'm still missing 5 gals somehow.
Nobody is missing fuel. Like many european cars, they allow for reserve even if it says 0miles left. Both of my BMW's do that. I used to freak out when it would display ---. That was the display after saying I had 0 miles to go. But I tested it once with a spare gas can in the trunk and could still drive almost 70 extra miles. I talked to a tech with BMW and the main reason the computer says you have x miles left, is so that you will fill it up before destroying your fuel injectors. Also, because it mentally forces you to fill up before running out of the extra reserve gallons that are available. Apparently all german cars are designed this way and the Toyota Landcruiser is no different. Now Domestic cars are another story. Lexus does the same thing with there fuel tanks (copying the Germans of course). If you like, test it. Top off your tank and drive until it passes out. (don't forget the spare gas can with fuel in it
) Besides all of this, if your concerned with mpg, than SUV's are not for you unless you have a separate car to use as a daily drive. Higher octane will not improve your fuel mileage. FACT!!! 
Here is some info about gasoline
A number of myths about octane have grown over the
years. There is a widespread perception that the greater the
octane the better the performance. However, once enough
octane is supplied to prevent engine knock, there is little, if
any, performance improvement. One exception to this would
be in vehicles equipped with knock sensors. In these vehicles,
if octane is insufficient, the computer will retard the timing to
limit engine knock. If the vehicle is operating in the “knock
limiting” mode (retarded timing), using a higher octane fuel will
allow timing to be advanced, resulting in some level of
performance increase. However, even in these vehicles,
tests have shown that there is no perceptible performance
improvement from using a fuel of higher octane than that
recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Another myth is that using a higher octane fuel will result
in improved fuel economy (increased miles per gallon). Octane
is nothing more than a measure of anti-knock quality.
Fuel economy is determined by a number of variables including
the energy content of the fuel. Some premium grades of
fuel may contain components which increase energy content.
In those cases, fuel economy may improve slightly as a result
of higher energy content, but not as a result of the higher
octane. Two fuels of identical octane could have different
energy content due to compositional differences.
Consumers need only use a gasoline meeting the
vehicle manufacturer’s recommended octane levels. If engine
knocking occurs on such fuels and mechanical causes
have been eliminated, then the consumer should purchase
the next highest octane gasoline (above the manufacturer's
recommendation in the owners manual) that will provide
knock-free operation.
A number of myths about octane have grown over the
years. There is a widespread perception that the greater the
octane the better the performance. However, once enough
octane is supplied to prevent engine knock, there is little, if
any, performance improvement. One exception to this would
be in vehicles equipped with knock sensors. In these vehicles,
if octane is insufficient, the computer will retard the timing to
limit engine knock. If the vehicle is operating in the “knock
limiting” mode (retarded timing), using a higher octane fuel will
allow timing to be advanced, resulting in some level of
performance increase. However, even in these vehicles,
tests have shown that there is no perceptible performance
improvement from using a fuel of higher octane than that
recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Another myth is that using a higher octane fuel will result
in improved fuel economy (increased miles per gallon). Octane
is nothing more than a measure of anti-knock quality.
Fuel economy is determined by a number of variables including
the energy content of the fuel. Some premium grades of
fuel may contain components which increase energy content.
In those cases, fuel economy may improve slightly as a result
of higher energy content, but not as a result of the higher
octane. Two fuels of identical octane could have different
energy content due to compositional differences.
Consumers need only use a gasoline meeting the
vehicle manufacturer’s recommended octane levels. If engine
knocking occurs on such fuels and mechanical causes
have been eliminated, then the consumer should purchase
the next highest octane gasoline (above the manufacturer's
recommendation in the owners manual) that will provide
knock-free operation.
Thanks Mtnbike!
Excellent idea - and so simple too. I'll pack the gas can, leave the kids at home, and drive until she sputters. On the other hand, the kids may get a kick out of the whole exercise.
Excellent idea - and so simple too. I'll pack the gas can, leave the kids at home, and drive until she sputters. On the other hand, the kids may get a kick out of the whole exercise.
- Thread starter
- #31
good info.
Thanks, just doing my job as a newbie here. You guys always have good info. and thought I might be able to contribute every once in a while.
... I would not do this as you could easily damage the fuel injectors. The reserve amount is there for a reason...
Thanks. Maybe the LC needs a recalibration...then again, my old dealer still thinks its a Highlander so they don't see why I should have a 25gal tank anyways. I'll check with my new dealer and see what they have to say. At least they were able to diagnose and repair the master cylinder that kept the brakes from working when I told them where to look. Hmmm...maybe I'll even siphon the tank and see if there is anything there...and to think I had fewer problems with my Land Rover. 
Thanks. Maybe the LC needs a recalibration...then again, my old dealer still thinks its a Highlander so they don't see why I should have a 25gal tank anyways. I'll check with my new dealer and see what they have to say. At least they were able to diagnose and repair the master cylinder that kept the brakes from working when I told them where to look. Hmmm...maybe I'll even siphon the tank and see if there is anything there...and to think I had fewer problems with my Land Rover.
You're new here so I'll ask: What other problems have you had? Maybe start a new thread listing them.
If you are having more problems than a LR, then somethings is definitely wrong!
Agreed. The post for the TSB "clunk" in the driveshaft is old news and was covered in a few posts including: https://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-cruisers/242380-maybe-its-just-me-being-picky.html.
Let me search for similar issues with the brakes and then post that one. It might help others avoid rear-ending someone.
Let me search for similar issues with the brakes and then post that one. It might help others avoid rear-ending someone.
dtt255, jbhorne don't you guys have scanguages. They should be able to give you and us more accurate MPG mileage than the onboard computer according to the literature.
Mine differs greatly. What I like about the scangauge is I can calibrate it with a GPS speed sensor and set the mileage offset. This way the mileage and speed are accurate to the upsized tires.
When I do this, however, it reports LESS MPG than the computer does, which I don't get as I should be gaining 5.4% on top of the computer.
What I need to do is calibrate it while driving past a speed reminder thingamagig and test that against my handheld gps. The reason for this is that the speedometer is off by a few mph from the factory with stock tires, so mathematically I should gain 5.4% per indicated mile, but that doesn't mean I actually do.
You could also calibrate it via mileage adjustments as you pass green mileage posts on the highway. It will take a few miles to get a proper offset.
I don't know if that made any sense........
