Gamiviti Rack on 200-series (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

Anyone tried to mount one of the full size Gamiviti racks on their 200-series?

Gamiviti Roof Racks

I really like the look of these, they can be set up to still allow the sunroof to operate, and they can be flipped if/when I ever get a roof top tent. I emailed the company and they're willing to do a 200-series rack but they don't have a vehicle to work from. Unfortunately Chicago to Denver is a long drive for me (why is it that everyone building LC gear is in Colorado?)

 

[Romer]

The owner is a friend of mine and I offered him my truck to take measurements. I ran one of his racks on my 100 series and it is a great product

 

[linuxgod]

Nice rig. That confirms my suspicion that "Desert Dirt" is the best color for an LC.

 

[nakman]

thanks, Ken. Linux, we'll work on making this happen for you. I'll make time to hook up with Romer to get some measurements, then see what we come up with..

is there a link to how to remove the factory rack? that's probably our next step.

 

[Yeti White]

I love that its very low profile....let us know how it works out (with pics on a 200)

 

[Willy beamin]

thanks, Ken. Linux, we'll work on making this happen for you. I'll make time to hook up with Romer to get some measurements, then see what we come up with..

is there a link to how to remove the factory rack? that's probably our next step.

Not sure about a link but its a cake walk to remove. takes all of 10-15 minutes

found you something: Aftermarket rack folks

scroll down to post #20 unless you want to review your competitors product

 

[nakman]

Ok thanks for that. Looks like these come off just like the GX470's then, with the clips on the bottom.

Good news Romer, I'm better than a 50% success rate with those on the break/don't break ratio.

 

[Romer]

Ok thanks for that. Looks like these come off just like the GX470's then, with the clips on the bottom.

Good news Romer, I'm better than a 50% success rate with those on the break/don't break ratio.

If your worried about breaking it, you shouldn't be wheeling it Closest thing I could think of

I trust you Tim. You have always done right by me

 

[linuxgod]

If your worried about breaking it, you shouldn't be wheeling it Closest thing I could think of

I trust you Tim. You have always done right by me

If he breaks any of the stock rack bits you can have mine once I install the new rack

 

[JamesC]

Not sure about a link but its a cake walk to remove. takes all of 10-15 minutes

found you something: Aftermarket rack folks

scroll down to post #20 unless you want to review your competitors product

Very nice looking racks.

Agreed, super easy to pull the stock rack. I'm not sure of other models like the GX but the one gotcha is care to not allow retaining bits to fall down into the headliner. If that's what you mean by the clips at the bottom on a GX then you've seen the issue. I also carefully followed the South African and Australian advice for sealant on the new hardware at install.

One suggestion when measuring out where you want the front most foot and the rear most foot. If you choose and measure/fab carefully you can retain the stock rubber channel covers ahead and behind the rack feet without cutting/modification. This helps a lot with wind noise and dirt accumulation.

 

[Romer]

Looks nice without a Roof Rack

Tim from Gamiviti came over and measured to define whats needed. He test fitted the towers and they work and needs to make a slight change to the rack. I am going to leave my rack off until he test fits it. I did plug the holes with washers and bolts.

Did you know the rear of the 100 is tapered, that the rear roof is not as wide as the roof over the drivers door. It is 3" shorter. My daughter had her 100 series her today while we were doing that and the sides of the 200 are tapered in vs the 100 being more straight up and down. The rear is also narrower as the 100 series ARB Drawer kit had to be trimmed down to fit

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks Ken. No, I didn't realize the rear of the 200 was tapered. It's certainly not obvious at first glance (unlike the 2nd gen Acura MDX I hd previously). I had read about how the 100-series drawers need to be shaved about an inch to fit the 200, but I just assumed that was because the interior was ever so slightly smaller in the rear... drawers are out the question for me for now until my kids are out of the house, since we occasionally use the 3rd row.

 

[linuxgod]

Tim is in the process of fabricating the rack, but I had a few questions for the group:

- 3 vs 4 towers. I assume when you take off the rubber strip on the roof there's an extra hidden set of mounting holes? How much weight can the rack (and roof) support with 3 vs 4 towers?
- Any recommendations on LED lights? Gamiviti has a 29.5" light bar though ideally I'd go wider (or run 4 spots)
- How much noise do you guys notice without a fairing? Does the light bar help or hurt the amount of noise?
- For those of you with rack-mounted lights, how do you run the wiring? Can it be run inside the rack and neatly fished into the interior somewhere?

Still debating whether I'm going to run it basket up or basket down. I like the look of running with the basket up, and I suspect it's easier to secure a roof load, but the lower profile of going basket down is better when I have to park in a city garage plus would eventually be necessary with an RTT.

 

[ikeb]

Looks nice without a Roof Rack

Tim from Gamiviti came over and measured to define whats needed. He test fitted the towers and they work and needs to make a slight change to the rack. I am going to leave my rack off until he test fits it. I did plug the holes with washers and bolts.

Did you know the rear of the 100 is tapered, that the rear roof is not as wide as the roof over the drivers door. It is 3" shorter. My daughter had her 100 series her today while we were doing that and the sides of the 200 are tapered in vs the 100 being more straight up and down. The rear is also narrower as the 100 series ARB Drawer kit had to be trimmed down to fit

View attachment 1216095 View attachment 1216096

i agree that it looks nice without the roof rack. does anybody know if there's a blanking kit for these? i'd love to remove the rails and run without them.

 

[T4Runner]

There's a thread from a year ago discussing it back when I did it.

Edit: These are the quantity and part nos required for stock roof rack delete:

(6) Drip Moulding Covers (75596-0E040),
(6) Roof Rack Brackets (631850R010),
(12) Bolt w/Washer (9011908C47)

 

[JamesC]

Tim is in the process of fabricating the rack, but I had a few questions for the group:

- 3 vs 4 towers. I assume when you take off the rubber strip on the roof there's an extra hidden set of mounting holes? How much weight can the rack (and roof) support with 3 vs 4 towers?
- Any recommendations on LED lights? Gamiviti has a 29.5" light bar though ideally I'd go wider (or run 4 spots)
- How much noise do you guys notice without a fairing? Does the light bar help or hurt the amount of noise?
- For those of you with rack-mounted lights, how do you run the wiring? Can it be run inside the rack and neatly fished into the interior somewhere?

Still debating whether I'm going to run it basket up or basket down. I like the look of running with the basket up, and I suspect it's easier to secure a roof load, but the lower profile of going basket down is better when I have to park in a city garage plus would eventually be necessary with an RTT.

-Does their design use a long rail that secures to each mounting hole in the 200 and then towers secured to that rail? If so, I'd go with the 'more the merrier' approach. Our eezi-awn has 5, for reference.

-Can't help on #2,3

-The only lighting we have rack-mounted are rigid SRQs on the rear for reverse/camp. I ran the wiring (techflex wrapped) inside the channels of the platform bottom and it's clean. No 'more' noise. The round stock of the Gamiviti rack looks amenable to doing something like 1/2 or 3/4" techflex split wrap (I can't tell the dia of the bar stock) and wrap both the round rack bar stock and the wiring all in there together?

I would probably ask them to put the maximum number of plates around the periphery and tabs if it were me. You never know where something might have to be located or relocated after a tent, awning, lighting, etc. are installed especially after some trial and error with different types of trips (rain, heat, snow). I really like their receiver plate ideas.

 

[ikeb]

Edit: These are the quantity and part nos required for stock roof rack delete:

thanks!

 

[linuxgod]

-Does their design use a long rail that secures to each mounting hole in the 200 and then towers secured to that rail?

For the 100-series they used towers which secure directly. I assume the 200-series will be the same.

-The only lighting we have rack-mounted are rigid SRQs on the rear for reverse/camp. I ran the wiring (techflex wrapped) inside the channels of the platform bottom and it's clean. No 'more' noise. The round stock of the Gamiviti rack looks amenable to doing something like 1/2 or 3/4" techflex split wrap (I can't tell the dia of the bar stock) and wrap both the round rack bar stock and the wiring all in there together?

Sounds like a good idea. How did you run the wiring into the interior? Did you feed it down through the tailgate somewhere?

 

[nakman]

Tim is in the process of fabricating the rack, but I had a few questions for the group:

- 3 vs 4 towers. I assume when you take off the rubber strip on the roof there's an extra hidden set of mounting holes? How much weight can the rack (and roof) support with 3 vs 4 towers?
- Any recommendations on LED lights? Gamiviti has a 29.5" light bar though ideally I'd go wider (or run 4 spots)
- How much noise do you guys notice without a fairing? Does the light bar help or hurt the amount of noise?
- For those of you with rack-mounted lights, how do you run the wiring? Can it be run inside the rack and neatly fished into the interior somewhere?

Still debating whether I'm going to run it basket up or basket down. I like the look of running with the basket up, and I suspect it's easier to secure a roof load, but the lower profile of going basket down is better when I have to park in a city garage plus would eventually be necessary with an RTT.

hey Geoff will do my best to answer...

3 vs. 4: yes there's a little rubber strip, with the other brackets unbolted the strips literally lift up, nothing else holding it. Underneath is your extra set.

weight capacity: standard answer is "more than you should put on the roof." consider your COG in a tippy situation, or worse, panic highway move.. you don't want 1000 pounds up there. But 3 or 4, each is certainly adequate for your particular combination of a RTT, tire, jack, fuel, shovel, chairs, etc. 3 is fine, 4 is more, either one is going to do you well.

Led's: the lights I stock are nothing special. Other than they are guaranteed to work, fit, and are available. I get these from a pretty high quality shop in China- so they are stiff, they don't bend, but they are by no means Rigid. . I do however guarantee them for at least a year, and haven't had a failure yet. Alternatively I can take pretty much any light bar and make it work for you though, which is a pretty common occurrence these days.

wind noise: worse with nothing, better with a light bar, and even better with the fairing. Actually not really that bad at all with just the light bar, but yes quieter with the fairing.

wiring: on the 100's we run loom out the hood, up the side of the windshield to the light bar. there is a little channel there that you can cram loom into perfectly. do 200's have this? If not I'd probably go up the back..

in back, my preference is keep the wiring under the truck, between the frame rails, then run it up between the body and rear bumper, along the inside of the tailgate opening, and on up behind the attachments for the hatch stop and hatch strut. This keeps the wires completely outside the gasket at all times, and of course no drilling, etc. It's also easy to remove.

to hold down the wires, I have been using basic split loom, and lots of zip ties. Be sure to keep the stuff off of the "top plane" of the rack, so you can freely slide your loads on top of it.

up or down: no need to choose, you can do both! But they tend to look better down, IMO, and I use the grab handle a lot more than I'd use a basket- pretty easy to secure a load on the main flat rack. but up is also an option.. just remember if you add a bunch of lights, make them dis connectable if you want to flip the rack around. The fairing is also going to be a complexity if you want to run the basket up, as in most applications the downward facing Expo bar supports the fairing in front. But anything is possible here.


I should have a new rack for my 100 in a week or two, will post it up so you can get a look at options. From that, we're going to design your 200 rack. really looking forward to this, appreciate the opportunity and thanks again Romer for being the local test animal here.

 

[linuxgod]

For weight, I'm more concerned about static load. I doubt I'll put more than 200# or so up there, so it's really a question of what I'll need if/when I add an RTT far off in the future. Based on what you said I'm assuming the roof even with 3 braces has no issue supportin 500# when parked.

Thanks Tim, really looking forward to this as well