Builds g-man's land cruiser story (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Ok I gave my u bolts a crew cut. Badly needed. Yeah, yeah I know, they were way too long.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Did you fix the center pin also looks like your missing the alignment bushing for the center pin and ubolt plate

 

[g-man]

Did you fix the center pin also looks like your missing the alignment bushing for the center pin and ubolt plate

I just cut the bent part off the center pins. the alignment bushings is missing off the driver's rear and the passenger rear bushing is torn up. I do a lot of beating and banging on the rocks due to my 31" tires. I'll have to do something about this. Maybe some kind of rock guards for my spring mounts.

 

[g-man]

all grease points done, gear oil in both axles looks good ...no water intrusion. We were in puddles up to the floor boards more than a few times and for more than a minute to get thru them.

 

[g-man]

The built in guards on the drain plugs for both axles are buggered at the front from hitting rocks. No way will I be able to remove these drain plugs. I have a gear oil pump so I'm probably going to just pump it out the fill hole when it's time to do an oil change.

 

[cruisermatt]

Sound like it's time for some bigger tires! Bigger tires means less dragging the axles on stuff

 

[g-man]

New motor mount on, EGR off including cooler and egr pipe. I can't get the dang 36mm nut out of the EGR cooler ...even in the vice. I will have to borrow a bigger wrench and an longer pipe to slip over it. I tried heating it with map gas but my smallish pipe wrench can't budge it.

I'm still not sure which way to go with this. Delete the whole thing and get block off plates, or get the SOR stainless pipe and put it back on? I've got the smog pump deleted and the air rail is gone. I just didn't want to have the added expense of re-curving my dizzy and getting a non US carb. PLUS ...this puts me that much farther from emissions if they ever decide to start emissions testing around here.

 

[g-man]

I had my EGR cooler in the vise for a few days and every time I walked by it I sprayed more liquid wrench on it. Then tightened just a hair and then started working it back and forth until it was loose. My EGR pipe has a groove worn in it so the ferrule won't get tight against it. Though about welding it and grinding it back down but it's stainless. I don't have that capability on my welder w/out getting more gas another gun etc. so that's not happening. Waiting on Willards EGR block offs. Then I'll prob order the spring kit and bushing for the dizzy. Feel like I'm going further down the rabbit hole.

 

[g-man]

today I thought I was approaching 100k miles of use out of my truck so on a whim I pulled the title out of the closet filing cabinet and low and behold the mileage is exactly 100k miles more since the day I bought it on 8/30/06. Not bad for an initial purchase price of $1500.00

 

[g-man]

At the time there was a 3 percent sales tax on vehicles. So 45.00 to the left of the mileage was the tax on $1500. Now the VA sales tax is 4.15 percent and a minimum of $75 per DMV

 

[g-man]

My truck is doing fine. I have a rattle in my newish muffler. A muffler shop replaced a couple months ago from the CAT on back and now the muffler has a broken baffle. I've been calling them but they're really busy and good at ignoring me. I'll keep calling them.
I have a small leak at the exhaust flange where it meets the manifold. I was very careful trying to get everything tight the last time I replaced it. But I'm pretty sure I bent the flange on the exhaust pipe when I took it loose and try to reinstall it during my t'case build. The engine was leaning back because the trans was not buttoned up and I stupidly pried really hard with a breaker bar to get it together.
I was thinking I may just put some jb weld Extreme heat paste in the groove between the flanges. I've done that before with luck. It held and later when I took the joint apart it crumbled so no problem cleaning it up later.
Does anyone know if there is a Non USA front exhaust pipe? One with the flange but w/out the smog pipe coming back up to the engine compartment?

 

[86aggie]

I think it is interesting that on my '90 62, the emphasis on '55' is gone - it just shows the mph by 10s - 30, 40, 50, 60, and the km ring is much more subtle. I may be mistaken, but I think the nationwide 55 and the move to metric were promoted by President Carter.

 

[g-man]

Looking at wikipedia the 55 mph nationwide speed limit was implemented in 73 and lasted til 95. Funny I always assumed it was to reduce fatal vehicle collisions on the interstate but appears it was all about energy conservation and saving the rare gasoline...I do remember odd/even days...yes I'm that old.

 

[86aggie]

In high school-40 years ago - I had a job that required me to drive and I was given a letter from the company president that stated such, so I could get gas any day of the week.

 

[mattressking]

My truck is doing fine. I have a rattle in my newish muffler. A muffler shop replaced a couple months ago from the CAT on back and now the muffler has a broken baffle. I've been calling them but they're really busy and good at ignoring me. I'll keep calling them.
I have a small leak at the exhaust flange where it meets the manifold. I was very careful trying to get everything tight the last time I replaced it. But I'm pretty sure I bent the flange on the exhaust pipe when I took it loose and try to reinstall it during my t'case build. The engine was leaning back because the trans was not buttoned up and I stupidly pried really hard with a breaker bar to get it together.
I was thinking I may just put some jb weld Extreme heat paste in the groove between the flanges. I've done that before with luck. It held and later when I took the joint apart it crumbled so no problem cleaning it up later.
Does anyone know if there is a Non USA front exhaust pipe? One with the flange but w/out the smog pipe coming back up to the engine compartment?

There is in fact one and it is also in fact....still available. However it also removes the catalytic converter if that is OK.

 

[g-man]

There is in fact one and it is also in fact....still available. However it also removes the catalytic converter if that is OK.

My muffler has been replaced, so now I'm just working on an exhaust leak at the manifold/downpipe flange. I just recently tried to replace my exhaust gasket. I unbolted 3 studs and just pulled down on the down pipe and slipped the old gasket out. It was pretty much in pieces ...hopefully this is the reason for the leak. I had a felpro exhaust gasket on hand and when I tried to slip it in place I couldn't get it over the ridge or lip of the down pipe and it ended up unraveling like a slinky. Now I have 4 more on order from Partsouq 2 are Toyota brand. This time I will completely remove the down-pipe and place the gasket on. Making sure to inspect the flange for flatness. I also bought some extreme heat Jb weld. Goes to 2400 deg F and is a metallic paste. I will fill it in the crack of the joint after replacing the gasket if it is still leaking but not using it until I have to.

 

[g-man]

my temp gauge was reading normal after replacing the t-stat seal when I did the head and now is reading low like around 1/4. I think 1/3 to just below 1/2 is more normal range. My heater is still blowing hot but I think I must have developed slight leak at the t-stat seal. When I get a warm day I will pull and replace.

 

[g-man]

I don't know why but my truck is overheating after a long interstate drive (hours). When I pull off the interstate and have to sit at a light or pull into a parking area the temp gauge gets close to the red. Also some coolant gets pushed out of the overfill bottle. Any guesses why it would do this and not with any other driving? Timing off? Cruddy radiator? I can drive around town all day without issue.

I also suspect that when the engine overheated it may have pushed my t-stat seal out of position. Although I did NOT see steam from the engine.

 

[60 toy ota]

No thoughts on the overheating but on your diff drain plugs, I'm sure you've heard of replacing those hex caps with allen cap plugs. If not, lots of info on search, think you can even get them oem. To get your current ones off, you could weld a 14 or 17mm nut on top of the cap. Sounds easier than pumping out the oil and you won't have to worry about buggering up the caps with rocks in the future

 

[g-man]

No thoughts on the overheating but on your diff drain plugs, I'm sure you've heard of replacing those hex caps with allen cap plugs. If not, lots of info on search, think you can even get them oem. To get your current ones off, you could weld a 14 or 17mm nut on top of the cap. Sounds easier than pumping out the oil and you won't have to worry about buggering up the caps with rocks in the future

Hmmm, i have a welder. I also thought about running a dremel grinder around the smashed edge so I can get at it with a socket. I do have an old wits end allen head plug that I was using for my tcase before I tapped it out.