FZJ80 rear heater hoses

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How’s this holding up? I was messing with mine cutting with a dremel and nicked a hardline 🤦🏼. Really not wanting to replace them all. They look super corroded so I thought about removing the rear heater or doing what you did.
I kept my rear heater, you should have read my post about removing the stock clamps with a spring tool hook. U can order these gates formed hose if you need to bypass the rear. Order qty 2

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Can anyone confirm where both lines from the rear heater end up in the engine bay?

I'm running the green stripe all the way (bypassing the metal/rubber routing, but NOT deleting).

It seems like the rear heater return comes into the 90 degree of the 'T' connector on the passenger side (US) of the engine bay and the return from the main heater core is the in-line of the 'T'.

Does the other hose that feeds the rear heater core run directly to the heater valve? I doesn't look like this rear heater was ever 'bypassed' but I have some empty metal hose terminations on the drivers side. I've looked and studied the videos and diagrams, and I really appreciate all the efforts that have been made, but I've love to see the tutorial that follows the flow of coolant, and explains how the rear heater diagram interfaces with the main cooling system diagram- I can't quite tell how they connect based on the diagram.
 
The rear water heater hoses are 1/2" ID and start from the firewall.

The right side comes off the bottom of the T connection, not quite a 90' bend to a hard pipe bolted to the firewall. That hose is not available as a separate part as it comes already attached (when the entire assembly is purchased) to the first set of hard lines seen in the diagrams above.

The second hose on the firewall for the rear water heater is located about in the middle of the firewall, you can see it if you stand by the right fender on a stool and look close the rear of the valve cover and firewall.

That short straight 1/2' hose section comes off the bottom pipe of a black pipe assembly that has two pipes coming off the lower section, one pipe is for 5/8" hose (main heater pipe coming out of the firewall) and the other is for the rear heater circuit which is a 1/2" hose which goes to a 1/2" hard line (see diagram above). Again, that 1/2" hose is not available as a separate Toyota part however it's straight so Gates Greenstripe will work. Or, there is a water heater circuit hose from a 100 series that can be cut to get both rear 1/2" heater hose sections: the ~90' hose and the straight section of hose if you want to use OEM hose that is.

Clear as Mud?

Try some searches for rear heater hoses firewall etc and you'll get some hits, been discussed.
 
Thanks for the reply- I found one of the YouTube videos to be the best, at actually showing the input versus return to the front and rear heater cores.

I plan to edit the diagram to highlight where the rear connects in- just haven’t done it yet. I think to replace the inflow requires removal of the valve assembly and possibly the intake too.

I bypassed the return with green stripe, but just did small splice on the input to the rear.

Hopefully will edit this post soon to be more helpful. You guys are great!
 
In the famous words of my favorite Melmacian Gordon Shumway, “Can of corn!”

  • Rubber grease for the win!
  • Spring tool hook for removal of Toyota sardine can clamp
  • Unbolt the hardline above cats
  • Long handle long nose pliers are a must (straight / angled / 90deg
  • I just went with the standard gates heater tubing, the Greenstripe is too thick and you cant use the factory Toyota clamps (parts store was out of the breeze constants

Firewall sections can be a ba$tard



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Hello,
Do you have the part number for this 90 bend hose? Can you please direct me to where I can find these please? Thank you.
 
Look up to post #45 and select the link. Part number given there.

@AM80
 
Was under my car over the weekend. Noticed these two rear-most rubber heater hoses have a small leak by the clamp. Ive read through this thread but I’m still confused if you guys are talking about these two hoses or something else. These are definitely NOT near the firewall. I took a pic from far away to show where they’re located, kinda between the T-case and exhaust if it makes sense. The metal lines are still in perfect shape aside from paint flaking off from exhaust heat I imagine. Vehicle is from Nevada.

Any idea if these are still available from Toyota or do I need aftermarket hose?

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Was under my car over the weekend. Noticed these two rear-most rubber heater hoses have a small leak by the clamp. Ive read through this thread but I’m still confused if you guys are talking about these two hoses or something else. These are definitely NOT near the firewall. I took a pic from far away to show where they’re located, kinda between the T-case and exhaust if it makes sense. The metal lines are still in perfect shape aside from paint flaking off from exhaust heat I imagine. Vehicle is from Nevada.

Any idea if these are still available from Toyota or do I need aftermarket hose?

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Those hoses come as part of he lower rear heater lines and are attached to the hard lines.

If it's just those hoses that are leaking, I would just change the hoses with some Green Stripe hose. I think the 5/8" is too large for these, as they are smaller than the hoses up by the firewall. Four new compression style clamps and two pieces of hose and about an hour of messing around.

You will end up doing a coolant change because of this. You will drain a significant amount of the coolant, as this is the lowest point on the entire system.
 
Those hoses come as part of he lower rear heater lines and are attached to the hard lines.

If it's just those hoses that are leaking, I would just change the hoses with some Green Stripe hose. I think the 5/8" is too large for these, as they are smaller than the hoses up by the firewall. Four new compression style clamps and two pieces of hose and about an hour of messing around.

You will end up doing a coolant change because of this. You will drain a significant amount of the coolant, as this is the lowest point on the entire system.
I appreciate your help. So it looks like I just need to get some 1/2" Gates Green Stripe and cut them to length.
Are those factory clamps not re-usable? I've never seen that style of clamp, how do you even remove/install them?
 
I appreciate your help. So it looks like I just need to get some 1/2" Gates Green Stripe and cut them to length.
Are those factory clamps not re-usable? I've never seen that style of clamp, how do you even remove/install them?
Those clamps are not reuseable. You need a pair of dykes and cut the band to get them off.

I THINK the clamp part number you will need is 90467-21010. I do NOT take responsibility if it doesn't fit your hose.

I bought a bunch for my truck when I did all the replacement, but I also bought Toyota hoses and factory hard lines as well.
 
Those clamps are not reuseable. You need a pair of dykes and cut the band to get them off.

I THINK the clamp part number you will need is 90467-21010. I do NOT take responsibility if it doesn't fit your hose.

I bought a bunch for my truck when I did all the replacement, but I also bought Toyota hoses and factory hard lines as well.
Hey man I really appreciate all your help with this!
 
I’m about to replace those rear heater hoses and clamps with this stuff (attached photo). Is there any reason I can’t use 4 of these clamps on the new Gates hose? Still not sure why they are using two style clamps at the factory for the same hose.

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From prior discussions the reason for the "Sardine can" clamps may just be due to the production process ie: easier/cheaper/faster??? to attach that type of clamp to a hose assembly when the hose-pipe assembly is manufactured. With the hose already attached to the pipe on one end it is then installed onto the vehicle during production on the assembly line and the other end of the hose gets the constant tension type clamp, if that makes sense.

The OEM style clamps should slide over the hose IF that clamp is the correct size for that particular hose. Or to put it another way, the Gates Greenstripe 1/2" ID hose may not have the same OD as the original hoses so you may need to test fit a couple different sizes of OEM constant tension clamps.
If the clamp is too loose it may not squeeze down on the hose enough for a tight seal.

Can't say for sure from the photo above but the clamps above look like they may be too small (ID) for the Gates hose??

Can you post up an end-on photos of the Gates hose along with the clamp above to compare ie: to show if the clamp will fit over the hose?
Measurements of the OD of the hose and the ID of the open clamp might help.
 
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From prior discussions the reason for the "Sardine can" clamps may just be due to the production process ie: easier/cheaper/faster??? to attach that type of clamp to a hose assembly when the hose-pipe assembly is manufactured. With the hose already attached to the pipe on one end it is then installed onto the vehicle during production on the assembly line and the other end of the hose gets the constant tension type clamp, if that makes sense.

The OEM style clamps should slide over the hose IF that clamp is the correct size for that particular hose. Or to put it another way, the Gates Greenstripe 1/2" ID hose may not have the same OD as the original hoses so you may need to test fit a couple different sizes of OEM constant tension clamps.
If the clamp is too loose it may not squeeze down on the hose enough for a tight seal.

Can't say for sure from the photo above but the clamps above look like they may be too small (ID) for the Gates hose??

Can you post up an end-on photos of the Gates hose along with the clamp above to compare ie: to show if the clamp will fit over the hose?
Have a look at post #3 in this thread:


It's been confirmed these OEM clamps fit snugly over the 1/2 ID Gates hose. My question is, can I use this clamp on both ends of the heater hose?

If you look a few posts above, I posted a picture of a small coolant leak I saw on the rear-most heater hoses of my car. From the factory they are using these normal clamps on one end, and the stupid cotter-pin clamps on the other end.

I'm just trying to figure out if I must order the cotter pin clamps or I can get away with using four ( (87124-60070) clamps.
 
Thanks for the link, I'd forgotten about that thread, looks like you're good to go.
 

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