FZJ80 rear heater hoses (1 Viewer)

[calokie]

The hoses under the truck that connect to the heater hard lines will require 1/2" hoses and they are a TIGHT fit. You'll need to smear antifreeze inside them and on the tube before you shove them on.

You can replace the entire hard /soft lines on the LOWER section to the rear heater without removing the exhaust. I replaced mine because of rust, but you cannot replace the upper hard lines due to the transmission.

Replacing the two hoses on the side of the transmission will be a VERY difficult job. I highly recommend getting the Toyota spring clamp clamps rather than screw type hose clamps that fit the proper OD of your hose.

I replaced all of my heater hoses and lower hard lines. I ended up having to buy cheap O'Reilly's hoses and go soft line from the top down to the lower hard lines. It's a tight fit with complete soft lines but they can get there.

Sounds like I’m in for some fun, I actually like the Toyota tension clamps aka non screw clamps (radiator hose type)

 

[Kernal]

The few 80's I've been up close to I've found the rear heater hoses under the vehicle to be in excellent shape. Personally I wouldn't mess with them if they
look good.

If you do decide to replace those hoses be very careful when removing them from the rear heater pipes which dive down through the floor. Those pipes are thin brass and connected directly to the heater core, so you don't want to tug on those hoses or you risk deforming the brass pipes. One method while working from below is to slice the hoses lengthwise in a few areas at the ends using a super sharp blade (Hobby knife for example) then carefully peel the hoses back off the brass pipes.

IMHO, resist the OCD urges we all get, if they aren't leaking and the pipes aren't corroded I wouldn't touch them.

 

[JoeCova]

The hoses under the truck that connect to the heater hard lines will require 1/2" hoses and they are a TIGHT fit. You'll need to smear antifreeze inside them and on the tube before you shove them on.

I'm a big fan of the Toyota rubber grease.

 

[calokie]

The few 80's I've been up close to I've found the rear heater hoses under the vehicle to be in excellent shape. Personally I wouldn't mess with them if they
look good.

If you do decide to replace those hoses be very careful when removing them from the rear heater pipes which dive down through the floor. Those pipes are thin brass and connected directly to the heater core, so you don't want to tug on those hoses or you risk deforming the brass pipes. One method while working from below is to slice the hoses lengthwise in a few areas at the ends using a super sharp blade (Hobby knife for example) then carefully peel the hoses back off the brass pipes.

IMHO, resist the OCD urges we all get, if they aren't leaking and the pipes aren't corroded I wouldn't touch them.

Thanks Kernal

 

[calokie]

I'm a big fan of the Toyota rubber grease.

I think I have some of that, for those special occasions

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm a big fan of the Toyota rubber grease.

Since I believe that is a silicone base, I just try not to use anything in a system that it is not designed for. So, I would only use water based products in my cooling system. That's why I use antifreeze as a lubricant for hoses on the cooling system.

There are a few folks that disagree with me, but

I've been doing it this way for over 40 years on many makes of vehicles and no issues.

 

[JoeCova]

Since I believe that is a silicone base, I just try not to use anything in a system that it is not designed for. So, I would only use water based products in my cooling system. That's why I use antifreeze as a lubricant for hoses on the cooling system.

There are a few folks that disagree with me, but

I've been doing it this way for over 40 years on many makes of vehicles and no issues.

Its lithium soap base

 

[b16]

Your hard lines were rusted out in the Bay Area? Was the rust from bad coolant or was the truck not from the bay area? Betty was a Capital Toyota purchase back in 97 purchased by the PO (old neighbor of mine) Why did you decide to keep the rear heater for this perfect Bay Area weather?

I don't think my rig spent its whole life in CA. forget where it was from originally. my hard lines were looking rough and wanted to just avoid it before it corroded out and dumped my coolant. Was easy to just run all soft lines; took maybe an hour at most to do it?

 

[BILT4ME]

Its lithium soap base

Good information to have. Thanks!

 

[calokie]

Picking up my 1/2" Gates Green Stripe today, special order off O-Riley's web page, I have the new heater hoses and control valve. I have the rear heater delete option available incase I get Bi@Ch Nutzzz wile I'm under there replacing the rear line heater lines. I'm definitely motivated to keep the rear heater now knowing that the rear heater operates independently of the front temp control. Can keep the truck warm without having heat blast in your face or you can have the front defrosters on cold and the rear heat can blast.

 

[FMC80]

If you had balls you’d replace the entire assembly like I did. Even with the engine out it was a pain in the aśś

 

[SmokingRocks]

Since I believe that is a silicone base, I just try not to use anything in a system that it is not designed for. So, I would only use water based products in my cooling system. That's why I use antifreeze as a lubricant for hoses on the cooling system.

There are a few folks that disagree with me, but

I've been doing it this way for over 40 years on many makes of vehicles and no issues.

I've always just spit on my hose before insertion, might take some more jiggling and force but it works.

Other times I use a light wipe of vasoline, and honestly, I don't think it really matters that much because a petroleum-based lube like vasoline will evaporate off over a pretty short time via the expansion tank exchange. And even if 50% of the thin film I lay down gets circulated it's at such a low ppm concentration that it's really a non-factor as far as impacting reliability.

The first engine I ever built is still on the road with almost 80,000 miles on it, and I used vasoline on that job, probably more liberally than I do now honestly.

 

[calokie]

If you had balls you’d replace the entire assembly like I did. Even with the engine out it was a pain in the aśś

The entire assembly?
Well first of all, I don’t have balls. 2nd the hardlines are in great shape, therefore I’m only replacing the soft lines.

I’m doing this operation tomorrow,

I've always just spit on my hose before insertion, might take some more jiggling and force but it works.

Other times I use a light wipe of vasoline, and honestly, I don't think it really matters that much because a petroleum-based lube like vasoline will evaporate off over a pretty short time via the expansion tank exchange. And even if 50% of the thin film I lay down gets circulated it's at such a low ppm concentration that it's really a non-factor as far as impacting reliability.

The first engine I ever built is still on the road with almost 80,000 miles on it, and I used vasoline on that job, probably more liberally than I do now honestly.

good ole Veenersliden ! Great stuff

 

[calokie]

Have fun replacing those!!!

It was pretty easy actually, just need to unbolt the hard line section and apply rubber grease!!!

 

[calokie]

In the famous words of my favorite Melmacian Gordon Shumway, “Can of corn!”

• Rubber grease for the win!
• Spring tool hook for removal of Toyota sardine can clamp
• Unbolt the hardline above cats
• Long handle long nose pliers are a must (straight / angled / 90deg
• I just went with the standard gates heater tubing, the Greenstripe is too thick and you cant use the factory Toyota clamps (parts store was out of the breeze constants

Firewall sections can be a ba$tard

 

[FMC80]

Great work; the lines at the bottom of the firewall are very difficult to access. My hat is off to you.

 

[calokie]

This plier set, was paramount

 

[calokie]

The few 80's I've been up close to I've found the rear heater hoses under the vehicle to be in excellent shape. Personally I wouldn't mess with them if they
look good.

If you do decide to replace those hoses be very careful when removing them from the rear heater pipes which dive down through the floor. Those pipes are thin brass and connected directly to the heater core, so you don't want to tug on those hoses or you risk deforming the brass pipes. One method while working from below is to slice the hoses lengthwise in a few areas at the ends using a super sharp blade (Hobby knife for example) then carefully peel the hoses back off the brass pipes.

IMHO, resist the OCD urges we all get, if they aren't leaking and the pipes aren't corroded I wouldn't touch them.

Yea actually the softlines under the truck were in good condition (other than being petrified), no leaks and minimum corrosion. The rear heater core in 97 had non brass tubes, they are either aluminum or steel, Also my coolant T was brass, is that factory? I ended up keeping my brass coolant T and threw the new plastic one in my tailgate storage for backup, along with my rear heater hose bypass hoses (gates 28467 x2)

Gates 28467 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose https://a.co/d/1PfYQB0

 

[FMC80]

Brass T is stock and as far as I know you can’t buy them anymore.

 

[ICY80]

How’s this holding up? I was messing with mine cutting with a dremel and nicked a hardline . Really not wanting to replace them all. They look super corroded so I thought about removing the rear heater or doing what you did.