Funny EDIC Funky Chicken

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Yes Rick! I had the batteries tested today.. one was weak so I replaced them both... then tested the output on the alt... not much to speak of : (

What was the measured alternator output with the new batteries? In my experience, you should be seeing 28-29v on a working system with good batteries. That's using a volt meter, not the gauge on the dash!

And importantly as Tapage suggests, what voltage are the regulator and EDIC relay seeing? Connections to these important functions should be verified.

Rick
 
I replaced the alt. with the reworked unit. The alt. guy added new brushes and volt reg. Now it puts out a whopping (though adequate and OE spec I believe) 50 amps : )

The EDIC seems to be operating normally but I need some drive time to verify it is fixed... I will also see the volts at the EDIC and regulator when I have time. The alt. guy reworked my old alt. and my spare alt. added wiring to the spare (which it was missing) both with new brushes and volt. reg. for $130 USD! Not bad : )


*edit: drove it 20 miles.... the EDIC relay is still cycling with lights and blower fan on:bang: guess I am going to probe some more wires:crybaby: I ran jumper cable wires from the negative terminal on the battery to the block, EDIC motor, and relay to see if I could isolate a ground issue... no changes... :censor:
 
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Now it puts out a whopping (though adequate and OE spec I believe) 50 amps : )

How did you measure amps? Cause you need volts and amps to have your truck workie!

... the EDIC relay is still cycling with lights and blower fan on:bang: guess I am going to probe some more wires:crybaby: I ran jumper cable wires from the negative terminal on the battery to the block, EDIC motor, and relay to see if I could isolate a ground issue... no changes... :censor:

My thinking is to the voltage output of the charging system and voltage at the EDIC. Lets get that out of the way and dig into the Funky Chicken itself...

Rick
 
Thanks Rick, on the fancy dancy alt. guy's machine the alt put out 50 amps. I will measure the volts on all three alt. wires tomorrow and probe the EDIC wires as well..... and of course, report back : )
 
So the alt. measures a little over 28 V while running....

I get 25V at the EDIC plug green wire with engine running with accessories running, blue wire trickles at .8V... the other two show nothing while running under a load. What the EDIC appears to be doing it slowly moving the arm forward (with lights/fan) until it hits the overinjection position then.. poof, black smoke, and the arm swings back to the "on" position... only to slowly creep forward. Maybe the .8V at the blue wire is causing the motor to go forward slowly?

Anyone know what V on which wire needs to be at which position of the arm?
 
Did you ever get yours figgered out?

My 87 24v bj70 has the funky chicken affliction at the moment. But ONLY if the headlights are on, and ONLY if I plug in the drivers side headlight. ( the one that runs on 12v. )

If I unplug that one headlight, problem goes away. I spent most of the day cleaning up some dubious wiring to my 24-12 converter and stereo, but didn't fix anything as I'd hoped it would...

I cleaned up all the grounds I could find, and actually made a new engine to frame ground ( hadn't had one in years) didn't help.





This all started when I replaced the fenders on the truck, but I didn't notice the problem for a month or so, because I didn't turn on the headlights...:doh:

Tomorrow I may take the edic off and clean it up a bit , jiggle some connections. see what happens.


I'm sorely tempted to hook up a couple of relays to the other headlight and have both lights powered by 24v, already have the relays kicking around, but then somewhere in the truck is still this issue that I haven't cured.:bang:
 
Well, seems like I fixed it.

Wouldn't go as far as " significant and embarrassing amount of corrosion" on the battery terminals, but when I polished them all up and reclamped them, and then added a ground wire from the Neg. terminal to the firewall , the problem went away.

I think it was the batt terminals more than the ground strap, but I figgered it couldn't hurt.

So, for the time being, all good. with everything turned on the edic stays quiet.
 
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Just wanted to share how I fixed the funky chiken EDIC on my BJ44 24v..

There is a adjustment screw on the side of EDIC that sets up a preload on the armature.. practically slows down the motor.. i tightened it up and now no more funky chicken.. it appears that the motor overruns the stopping point if the preload is not proper... lets see how well and how long it works :)
 
Just wanted to share how I fixed the funky chiken EDIC on my BJ44 24v..

There is a adjustment screw on the side of EDIC that sets up a preload on the armature.. practically slows down the motor.. i tightened it up and now no more funky chicken.. it appears that the motor overruns the stopping point if the preload is not proper... lets see how well and how long it works :)

Thanks for sharing this Akif.

Very valuable info!

And I think your solution could well end up solving this problem permanently for you.

:clap:
 
Lets hope it does cure it.. the FSM doesnt mention anything on the adjustment screw.. but its there for a reason i believe.. there is hardly anything in the FCM that could break!
 
.. it appears that the motor overruns the stopping point if the preload is not proper... lets see how well and how long it works :)


Interesting. I'll need to check this out. I haven't had a funky chicken problem but the EDIC on the H in my 1980 Troopy acted up once and bent the full stop tab on the armature. I couldn't believe how much power I had for a moment and realized my EGTs were way high and I was blowing black smoke like an old coal-fired power plant.
 
and bad luck.. it didnt work for long :(.. after a few days.. the issue is back.. it happens when the truck is hot and sometimes works when cold!

looking at the funky EDIC motor.. it appears to slow down at the required point but.. then overshoots and goes to the next point :(.. disconnected for now.. and im back to stall to shutdown :(
 
and bad luck.. it didnt work for long :(.. after a few days.. the issue is back.. it happens when the truck is hot and sometimes works when cold!

looking at the funky EDIC motor.. it appears to slow down at the required point but.. then overshoots and goes to the next point :(.. disconnected for now.. and im back to stall to shutdown :(

What do the electrical contacts inside the EDIC motor/box look like Akif?

Perhaps they are covered in grease (or not making proper contact for some other reason)?

:beer:
 
I did clean them.. and they were okay.. i'll re-open it today.. will post some pics.. let me redo it :)
 
@Daryl

As part of the problem isolation.. i had disconnected the oil pressure sender wire so the sender cant mess up.. its something with the motor itself.. i need to check.. someone might have replaced to a 12v armature in the 24v motor.. u never know :)
 
I would check all the grounds on the the batteries and body as well as the engine to frame. I even added one ground strap from a mounting bolt on the EDIC to the frame. I also had my alt rebuilt and installed balanced/new batteries. It solved my problem with the EDIC 'cycling' on its own unless I allowed corrosion to build on terminals or grounds and then hot/humid ambient environs would cause the problem to return. Funky Little Chickens, aren't they :D
 

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