Fuel filler inlet pipe removal tricks? (2 Viewers)

[landtank]

Remove the rear tires and place jack stands under the frame in front of the LCAs.

Unbolt the body from the frame leaving the front bolts loose in place

Using a chain, attach it to the 2 floor striker points for the 3rd row seats.

Attach a cherry picker to the chain and lift the rear up off the frame.

Take your time jacking it up and you only need a couple of inches.

 

[jgaupel]

OK so the removal of the filler neck from the donor is complete. I must say that it was easy but time consuming. If you go into the job understanding this, it makes the job much easier to accomplish. Here is a list of a few things that might help you should you have to do this job away from your shop or shop area. Many have nothing to do with this job but all jobs.
1. Make sure you have many options to remove bolts including penetrating oil.
I took 3/8s drive short / mid / deep 6 point and 1/2 deep 6 point sockets, standard length and extra long wrenches, and extensions.
2. Be prepared to remove various brackets in order to get to the fastener heads.
I had to remove a bracket in order to get a clear path to the filler connector boot clamp. I had to take the last exhaust hanger by the resonator loose.
3. I can't think of an eloquent or proper way to say it but every time you put a socket or wrench on a rusty bot hit it with a hammer, seat that S.O.B. the sound that the strike makes will change once the socket is fully seated.
4. I have seen videos of people struggling with the rubber hose connector to the tank. This is a wholly unnecessary source of frustration. Make sure that you get to the parts store and purchase a hose pick. Take the hose pick and channel lock pliers with every hose job you do. Run the pick around the hose and use the pliers to spine it back and forth until loose.
4a. Take the to bolts off of the pipe to body bracket.
5. Just go ahead and accept that you are going to loosen the body bolts. I used a half inch breaker bar on top, it wasn't needed for torque strength but easy reach from bottom.(in my case.) I can imagine that you may break a bolt and would need the strength of the breaker bar in that scenario.
6. I jacked the body up with a floor jack and a beam across the back of the body at the rear. As this was a parts truck I did not have to worry about body flex or any type of crushing but there was none at all. Once the body was up I inserted ruff cut blocks of oak between the body and the cross member of the frame in the area that the pipe hangs up on. Keeping in mind that the pipe had already been pulled away from the rubber hoses ( do this before even touching the body bolts,) I simply went to the drivers side rear wheel and pulled the pipe out through the wheel well. At no time where my hands or any tools in between the body and frame or in any location in which they could have become crushed, pined, or cut off.

Standard disclaimer
Protect your eyes.
Protect your ears. In my case I chose to use a impact wrench and had to be under the vehicle for rear body mounts. This is dangerously loud.
Do not cut any metal with any method. IF you are in that scenario you have made a mistake. If you must cut metal drain tank, remove sending unit, let vent for a week and still don't do it.
Do not put any body parts between body and frame.
If in a junk yard do not proceed to the body lift step alone.
Don't try and rush. This removal took me 3 hours with no rushing but I had a head start as the seats and carpet were not in the vehicle.

To be continued when the pipe is homed to @cc72red s LC.

Shout out to @lukefj80 for providing the donor vehicle, advice, time, and more than fair price.

Jeremy

 

[jgaupel]

removal summery
Remove clamps and loosen hose.
Remove pipe mounting bolts.
Drop resonator exhaust bracket.
Shimmy pipe rearward.
Remove body bolt nuts.
Jack up body.
Remove pipe through wheel well.

Jeremy

 

[jgaupel]

Any suggestions on what spray paint to use on the filler neck after rust repair complete?

Jeremy

 

[Kernal]

"Any suggestions on what spray paint to use on the filler neck after rust repair complete?"

What was done for rust repair, got photos of what it looks like now?

Some options (IME):

Send the pipe off to a company that treats the metal with various platings (Zinc Chromate, etc) followed by primer/paint (exterior)

Or, take it to your neighborhood Cerakote guy (do a search) and have the whole thing sand (media) blasted followed by Cerakote E-Series

Or, after sanding to remove loose rust, you could kill any remaining rust in pits with a phosphoric acid rust stop type product (OSPHO, etc* see note below), then use a 2K epoxy primer/sealer followed by a 2k Epoxy paint (SprayMax, Eastwood, etc)

Or, if rust was really bad consider something like KBS Rust Sealer (buy the kit at Summit Racing) followed by any paint for appearance and UV protection of the coating

Or, after light sanding, killing rust*, etc, hit it with a good high solids primer (Transtar 2 in 1 for example) and your favorite paint (a 2k Epoxy paint topcoat will hold up much better IME)

Tips:

*Do not spray paint inside the pipes (of course).

*Any remaining original protective metal plating (the goldish/iridescent sheen visible in the fill spout and under the paint) will likely be removed by the use of any phosphoric acid product so take that into consideration ie: if you use it at all maybe just local spot treatment of rust in pits instead of flooding the whole pipe.

 

[jgaupel]

@Kernal

OK, so at this point it has been spot bead blasted (not a very good gun or media,), a little sanding here a little wire wheel there. I have applied phosphoric acid / treatment but need one more application.
Here are pics. Large area pic has a little flash / re rusting as I had to walk away for a few days.

I believe that an epoxy type rattle can primer and top coast should work for the lesser damaged areas.(advice please?)
I would prep the filler by de greasing with a solvent (xylene, acetone, denatured alcohol, Lacquer thinner,a)nd then 400grit.

For the large trouble area I am not sure what to use.
I was thinking about Fuel resistant JB weld or epoxy, possibly with glass mat infusion.
If I go that route should I prime the filler neck and then apply patch. Or apply patch then primer and top coat.

Do to the low pressure nature of the system I was also thinking that I could prime and paint the filler as it is then use 3M weather strip adhesive or fuel resistant gasket maker with possibly clamp and rubber sleeve.

Third thought is to solider the pin holes a solder and patch the larger hole as I can patch from the inside but I am not sure if solider will stick and flow well enough. v Also I do not know if the heat of soldering will further cause rusting in those areas.(?)

At the end of whatever process is decided I can, If there is positive consensus, Red Kote the inside of the fuel tank end of the filler easily.

Please let me know if I am reaching too far, am totally off base or if there is a product that I can simply apply and epoxy paint over.

Thanks

Jeremy

 

[Broski]

Buy a new one or a good used one.
We’re talking gas here not worth trying to fix that it’s a time bomb !!

 

[Kernal]

Ditto: I would try to find a better used pipe or even a new pipe (diesel version is still available last I checked).

Is that the original pipe or a replacement from a salvage yard? Either way it's in rough shape.

But if you must get it back on the road as you mentioned there are a few ways to try to fix the worst area, depends on your skills (welding/solder/braze). You could then sand, clean with acetone well, then slather with a fuel tolerant two part epoxy followed by primer and paint. I would call JB Weld to ask which of the their products is best for that location ie: Tank Weld, Steel Stick, etc

OR, after sealing the holes coat the exterior of the pipe with KBS Rust Seal or their Tank Sealer (call the company to ask which is better to apply to the exterior of the pipe).

Any of those fixes might buy you a few years.

 

[jgaupel]

Thank you for your concerns about safety.
At the top of the pipe there are no holes or unreasonable pitting that concerns me about eminent failure. I will spray it with 2 stage epoxy primer/sealer if need be. That will stop the rust especially after this round of phosphoric. I just didn't want to get the guns out, set up the dehumidifier rig and go buy a cup of sealer. If the vent pipe is not repairable I will replace it with fuel line.
As far as the bad area is concerned, i believe that it is the result of the brazing from the factory. I'm not sure why this happens but it just does cause a weak spot that is attacked. If the bad area was "free floating" I would worry that the pipe was compromised. This location is right outside of the fuel hose to the tank. What are your opinions on simply cutting the pipe past the trouble and placing a longer coupler to the tank. There is very low mechanical stress at this location so a longer "coupling" hose should be fine.

Please note that I am going to inspect the interior of the filler with my bore scope.

Please note that If a better filler that is affordable is found it will be used.
Where would I look for one?

This repair is being done at lowest safe cost.
This vehicle is not being restored.
I will be under the vehicle often to tidy things up and repair other things. (or just check repair.)
There is active searching going on for this vehicles replacement.

 

[Kernal]

There are a few people who've cut the filler pipe (to remove the rusted area) then used a section of thick fuel resistant rubber hose to fit between the two sections along with some good clamps. FWIW Fuel Tank Filler Neck Hoses - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-tank-filler-neck-hoses

Or, FWIW, after primer/paint clamp a section of hose/pipe sliced lengthwise around the OD of the rusted pipe, add a couple of clamps and a fuel resistant sealant??

 

[jgaupel]

I will contact the various companies to get information.

Or, FWIW, after primer/paint clamp a section of hose/pipe sliced lengthwise around the OD of the rusted pipe, add a couple of clamps and a fuel resistant sealant??

I was considering this but with a full sleeve. To think about it further I could simply run the coupling hose to the tank all the way past the bad area.(new longer hose) I would maintain the original clamp location and add a clamp up high. (3 clamps)

Thanks again for all the information and the concern for safety.
I will post once I get back to the project.