I couldn't pass up the deal CampingLab had on the FrontRunner 45 gal tank so I bought one and will sell the 13 Gal OEM subtank. I did a straight swap, using the OEM dual filler neck. I know this is an obscure project but I'll post up some details in case anyone finds this in the search in the future.
My biggest goal was to keep the OEM sending unit but the FrontRunner doesn't come tapped for that (the LongRanger does) so I had to make arrangements for the sending unit.
I found an enourmous industrial washer at the specialty hardware store about 3" across and the perfect 1.75" inside diameter. I tapped holes for the OEM sending unit screws in the washer so that it would become the base plate for the sending unit to attach to since the tank walls are too thin to tap properly.
Next I had to determine where to mount the sending unit and how to modify the swingarm/float and low fuel sensor for the deeper tank. I mapped out the location of the baffles and support beams in the tank and extended the swingarm for the best range of motion where it won't snag on the internal supports.
To extend the swingarms, I cut the arm/wire and crimped on some stainless tubing as the extnsion and then crimped the end piece back on. A little JB weld (which is rated for gas tank repair) seals the ends of the tubing so the tube is bouyant. I was a little concerned that the float wouldn't be bouyant enough with the added weight of the longer arm. By making the arm extension bouyant it solves that potential problem. I bent and re-bent the extended arms until I was satisfied with the range of travel.
Then I cut a 1.75" hole in the tank in the chosen location, prepped the surface, and JB welded the tapped washer to the tank, careful to keep the epoxy out of the sending unit threads.
The tank mounts using some 3" square u-bolts over the frame cross brace toward the front. Those are easy to install once you get the tank into position. The tank is pretty heavy and getting it into position is a real pain. I placed the tank on a piece of plywood on a floorjack and raised and wrestled it into position. At the rear, you have to remove the bar that goes across the inside of the bumper frame - not sure what it does but I think it stabilizes the stock spare tire. The tank comes with brackets that attach to the holes from this stabilizer bar.
At first I was miffed because the brackets aren't drilled. But after test fitting I realized the wisdom in that. There are an infinite number of minute adjustment to fitting the tank and since each chassis is slightly different, the brackets are the easiest thing to drill for the best positioning so they each ended up at an odd angle but the tank is centered.
It's all mounted and tested and seems to work great. The tank took just under 45 gal which cost about $120 at the cheapest gas station in SoCal. I figure now I can make it from LA to SanFran and back without filling up. Good for our long term Africa travel goals.
Now the pics...
My biggest goal was to keep the OEM sending unit but the FrontRunner doesn't come tapped for that (the LongRanger does) so I had to make arrangements for the sending unit.
I found an enourmous industrial washer at the specialty hardware store about 3" across and the perfect 1.75" inside diameter. I tapped holes for the OEM sending unit screws in the washer so that it would become the base plate for the sending unit to attach to since the tank walls are too thin to tap properly.
Next I had to determine where to mount the sending unit and how to modify the swingarm/float and low fuel sensor for the deeper tank. I mapped out the location of the baffles and support beams in the tank and extended the swingarm for the best range of motion where it won't snag on the internal supports.
To extend the swingarms, I cut the arm/wire and crimped on some stainless tubing as the extnsion and then crimped the end piece back on. A little JB weld (which is rated for gas tank repair) seals the ends of the tubing so the tube is bouyant. I was a little concerned that the float wouldn't be bouyant enough with the added weight of the longer arm. By making the arm extension bouyant it solves that potential problem. I bent and re-bent the extended arms until I was satisfied with the range of travel.
Then I cut a 1.75" hole in the tank in the chosen location, prepped the surface, and JB welded the tapped washer to the tank, careful to keep the epoxy out of the sending unit threads.
The tank mounts using some 3" square u-bolts over the frame cross brace toward the front. Those are easy to install once you get the tank into position. The tank is pretty heavy and getting it into position is a real pain. I placed the tank on a piece of plywood on a floorjack and raised and wrestled it into position. At the rear, you have to remove the bar that goes across the inside of the bumper frame - not sure what it does but I think it stabilizes the stock spare tire. The tank comes with brackets that attach to the holes from this stabilizer bar.
At first I was miffed because the brackets aren't drilled. But after test fitting I realized the wisdom in that. There are an infinite number of minute adjustment to fitting the tank and since each chassis is slightly different, the brackets are the easiest thing to drill for the best positioning so they each ended up at an odd angle but the tank is centered.
It's all mounted and tested and seems to work great. The tank took just under 45 gal which cost about $120 at the cheapest gas station in SoCal. I figure now I can make it from LA to SanFran and back without filling up. Good for our long term Africa travel goals.
Now the pics...