Front wheel bearings...how loose is too loose?

[Skillet]

I did my front and rear wheel bearings about 11K ago.

Just did a routine check on them a few minutes ago.

Jacked up the rear, absolutely no play when rocked on either rear wheel.

Checked the front and both wheels have about 1/8" play.

Not much but still noticeable.

Is this fairly normal? I remember in my 40 there was always normal play like that.

I am just checking with the 80 gurus.

 

[cpg]

I did my front and rear wheel bearings about 11K ago.

Just did a routine check on them a few minutes ago.

Jacked up the rear, absolutely no play when rocked on either rear wheel.

Checked the front and both wheels have about 1/8" play.

Not much but still noticeable.

Is this fairly normal? I remember in my 40 there was always normal play like that.

I am just checking with the 80 gurus.

Should not be any play that you can feel with the tire.

 

[Tapage]

Should not be any play that you can feel with the tire.

Ditto .. the FSM have a tight and ride method ( that I never do ) .. but could happend to your bearing after some miles ..

 

['74 UA FJ]

Should not be any play that you can feel with the tire.

x2. Shouldn't be able to feel any play with your 40 either, btw.

 

[schlaker]

Snug 'em up ASAP! They will only get worse.

 

[Skillet]

Just finished the first wheel...eating a snack and starting on #2 in a minute.

Using the landtank 10lb method this time.

When I last did them, I used the fishscale B.S. method. Obviously it no worky.

Greasy mofer.

Thanks folks.

 

[-Spike-]

Either method can fail due to operator error. Getting the bearings seated properly and the grease squeezed out is probably the easiest thing to get wrong. If they are set right and the nuts don't move, there's no reason for play to introduce itself.

-Spike

 

[elmariachi]

Getting the bearings seated properly and the grease squeezed out is probably the easiest thing to get wrong. If they are set right and the nuts don't move, there's no reason for play to introduce itself.-Spike

Which is the whole reason why you crank the inner nut down to 47 ft lbs in the first place.

 

[-Spike-]

Which is the whole reason why you crank the inner nut down to 47 ft lbs in the first place.

And then turn the wheel back and forth a few rev's, loosen, tighten again, spin the wheel back and forth, (anything worth doing once is worth doing again ) and proceed with setting the preload. And if the race isn't pressed in all the way before this, you'll have problems anyway, and God forbid the race be slightly off square.

Yes, there's a procedure, and it should be fool proof, but only if the procedures are followed and the reasons for them fully understood. If you know why you tighten the inner nut to 47 ft lbs it can be helpful in understanding (and eliminating) potential problems.

-Spike

 

[Cruiserdrew]

It is interesting to me, that on my FJ60, once you set front wheel bearing preload, it stays set. There is no loosening, wobbling, or concern of any type. The 80, on the other hand, does seem to get slightly loose after installing new bearings. I now make it a practice to go back in and re set everything after a few months. Then it seems to stay at the proper torque. I was thinking it was somehow related to the front of the 80 always being "driven". The rear seems to have no issues with loosening up. Maybe it's just a better system.

I've given up on the preload fish scale thing. I preload until it feels right and go with that. There are too many variables-tightness of the seal, thickness and temp of the grease etc. I too believe the "Landtank" method is the best.

 

[Skillet]

All went back together nicely.

We will see how it holds up down to SnT this weekend.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[Sarmajor]

Wheel Bearings

Fronts should have no play in them if they are set right.
The rears are a bit different. Remember that they have an axle bolted to the flange and seated in the diff carrier so jacking the wheel up and wobbling it won't tell the true story. To get the real play in the bearings you must remove the axle.

 

[-Spike-]

...but nevertheless, if there is play in the rear bearings, they're not right either. The axle might limit play, but there should be no play, same as the front.

-Spike

 

[Skillet]

There is absolutely NO play in the rear and I ain't pullin' the axles.

Just did them 11K ago with brand new bearings so they should be fine. They are always just warm to the touch after long trips.

Finished snugging up the front yesterday around 3:30 and all seems well.

May have even solved that little vibration problem I had.

Have not driven enough to know yet.

Once again, thanks for the input.

 

[elmariachi]

I still am unclear why anyone would try and guess at this when the proper tool is only $25 on eBay. Here is the one I have been using since 1993:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Chatillon-DPP-2...oryZ1504QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And here is a newer version:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-IMADA-PUSH-...ryZ58235QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I am not a big fan of guessing when it involves the potential for fragging a bearing and/or spindle and being stranded away from home.

 

[landtank]

I still am unclear why anyone would try and guess at this when the proper tool is only $25 on eBay.

I'm unclear why it's so hard to understand that the procedure outlined in the FSM doesn't always work. If you need to see it first hand, come on up to Groveland in February with your 25.00 tool and you can set up my bearings out in the driveway.

 

[MoGas]

I'm unclear as to why only my right side gets a little loose when the bearings spin towards tighten.

Every oil change, I have to adjust only the right side. the play in the tires is minimal (<1/16") but still they work loose. I bought all new OEM nuts and a washers and still they do this.


Dave

 

[elmariachi]

I'm unclear why it's so hard to understand that the procedure outlined in the FSM doesn't always work. If you need to see it first hand, come on up to Groveland in February with your 25.00 tool and you can set up my bearings out in the driveway.

Good for you that you can get it right without a tool and so can I because I have done it 30 times. But you aren't the one posting here with problems. Those that are are trying to emulate you and the LANDTANK way their first time and not getting it right.

The procudure in the FSM and the correct tools works, period. I'll FedEx you my tool and you can do it yourself if you need proof.

 

[landtank]

I'm unclear as to why only my right side gets a little loose when the bearings spin towards tighten.

Every oil change, I have to adjust only the right side. the play in the tires is minimal (<1/16") but still they work loose. I bought all new OEM nuts and a washers and still they do this.


Dave

It was always the right side on my 60 as well. On that truck things would get so loose the front would shake when I hit a bump in the road at highway speeds. That's when I just started to torque the nuts on and never had an issue again.

 

[landtank]

Good for you that you can get it right without a tool and so can I because I have done it 30 times. But you aren't the one posting here with problems. Those that are are trying to emulate you and the LANDTANK way their first time and not getting it right.

The procudure in the FSM and the correct tools works, period. I'll FedEx you my tool and you can do it yourself if you need proof.

go ahead and fedex me the tool, but will you believe me when I tell you it didn't work? Out in my driveway with temps below zero, you aren't going to loosen those nuts enough to get the preload low enough. If the procedure doesn't work in all conditions then it doesn't work period.