Front wheel bearings...how loose is too loose?

[elmariachi]

go ahead and fedex me the tool, but will you believe me when I tell you it didn't work? Out in my driveway with temps below zero

The original poster of this thread lives in Freedom, CA doing this job in October, not in Boston. in Feb.(Current weather in Freedom is 60 degrees F) In those conditions, the preload can be accurately set using a force gauge and the instructions in the FSM. And by the way, page IN-7, section 14 of my FSM states that the resistance values shown in the FSM are to be measured at 68 degrees F.

If the procedure doesn't work in all conditions then it doesn't work period.

Well we can choose to disagree. It has worked well in Texas for 15 years, and would work well in California in 60 degree weather. Just because you have chosen to do your rebuild outdoors in the Feb snow isn't sufficient, in my opinion, to be advising others with potentially a lot less experience to abandon the recommended process and tools in favor of doing it by hand, in any weather.

 

[landtank]

The original poster of this thread lives in Freedom

that has nothing to do with my response to you being unclear why people are having problems. In the past I've posted how I set of my bearings and how well it's worked for me. If someone is having problems doing it that way then I'll be happy to clarify it if needed. But I'm not out there advocating people do it my way, only suggesting an alternative if they are having trouble which I didn't do here.



So is he supposed to wait for it to warm up 8* or just star a fire next to the wheel?

 

[ThePookieBear]

I noticed that when I tightened my drivers side nuts it fixed the leaky knuckle. Some idiot before me didn't use the lock washer right and the outer one came out to the flange, and ground away, and the inner one started to loosen a tiny bit and thats when I noticed it. It had minimal play, but noticeable. Has this happened to anyone? And if so, do you think it damaged anything? I replaced the nuts and the lock washer etc. This weekend should be a thousand miles since I did it and I need to check it again before my camping trip.

 

[elmariachi]

that has nothing to do with my response to you being unclear why people are having problems.

Let me be more blunt then. People, some of whom are novices, continue to attempt these sophisticated repairs without FSM directions and/or recommended tools. Then they wonder why they have problems ? I am a little unclear on that rationale, which is the basis of my post. I don't care what the temps are, that is not a basis for abandoning the prescribed method, or at least attempting to use it as a frame of reference.

So is he supposed to wait for it to warm up 8* or just star a fire next to the wheel?

No. He can do it by hand, which gives him absolutely ZERO point of numerical reference from which to adjust for the variance between 68 and 60 degrees (which is the same as pulling it out of his a** IMO....or he can use a force guage (not a Berkley fish scale) and set it somewhere in the lower end of the recommended range to account for temp variances. He can then come back later and recheck it with the gauge against the prior value if he chooses to ensure it is set within spec. He's already saved $500 over having the dealer do it, so investing in a $20 tool is not unrealistic advice.

And using the force gauge I have not ever experienced play after a knuckle rebuild.

 

[Rookie2]

As a point of reference, I too was a non-believer in this "the FSM procedure does not work" theory. I set mine precisely by the procedure list in the FSM, and had no play. I insisted that the folks doing this and getting play must be doing something wrong, as I saw no way if the procedure was performed correctly you would get play. I was wrong, 8 to 10k later I had play and had to go back in and reset. IMO the main point to be made here is not what procedure is correct, ... but to back-check the wheels for play after it's been on the road a while.


Rookie2

 

[cpg]

No. He can do it by hand, which gives him absolutely ZERO point of numerical reference from which to adjust for the variance between 68 and 60 degrees (which is the same as pulling it out of his a** IMO....or he can use a force guage (not a Berkley fish scale) and set it somewhere in the lower end of the recommended range to account for temp variances. He can then come back later and recheck it with the gauge against the prior value if he chooses to ensure it is set within spec. He's already saved $500 over having the dealer do it, so investing in a $20 tool is not unrealistic advice.

And using the force gauge I have not ever experienced play after a knuckle rebuild.

I have also had very good luck with the force gauge on 2 straight axle toy trucks, 40's and the 80. I always go for the higher end of the range and just check the hub temps after the 1st long drive. Never did this below 35 degrees.
And have never had the bearings loosen up or go bad.

 

[cpg]

As a point of reference, I too was a non-believer in this "the FSM procedure does not work" theory. I set mine precisely by the procedure list in the FSM, and had no play. I insisted that the folks doing this and getting play must be doing something wrong, as I saw no way if the procedure was performed correctly you would get play. I was wrong, 8 to 10k later I had play and had to go back in and reset. IMO the main point to be made here is not what procedure is correct, ... but to back-check the wheels for play after it's been on the road a while.


Rookie2

Good idea to always grap the tire when you have it jacked up. Takes no time at all to check.