Front swaybar quick disconnect (1 Viewer)

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Vitesse_6

Vitesse_6

Joined
Apr 24, 2004
Threads
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Location
Taylorsville Utah
Hi all.
This is what I did to for a quick disconnect on my FZJ80....

Here it sits in its normal position
442302412_babffb2f9f_o.jpg


Here in the bracket I cut, drilled and welded on
442302420_8605d19a53_o.jpg


Here is a pic of how it looks from the stock position
442302428_110cd1ce94_o.jpg


The type os clevis pin I used, I dont know how well this will last, But I an trying to find a hardened positive locking pin
442302432_2b61c92c1e_o.jpg


Big thanks to Phaedrus and Hayes for the thought.
I know the welds look shabby but they should hold the swaybar in place, Besides its a tight spot in there :D
Have fun
 
Dusty said:
fellas
do those quick disconnects allow the disconnected swaybar to go constantly banging on frame whilst you are wheeling?
Click to expand...

I dont know how mine would hit the frame, There is almost 1" above the swaybar at its end, The rear is still connected to the frame with its pivot point.
HTH
 
I did this 2 years ago or so and it helps if you reinforce/weld the stock axle brackets more securely as they are not held on there very well. You can use some 1"x1"x0.25"walled tubing and some 1" wide 0.25" stock to raise the mount where you can more easily pull the pins - especially on the PS where it's tighter. There is a hole in the bottom of the stock bracket. We welded a 10-mm bolt in the bottom of the 1"x1" tube to act as a pin to assist with shearing forces. You could also squeeze a nut on the bottom of it above your front control arms but that seemed unnecessary. The other benefit of raising it is it helps with the location of the swaybar on a lifted truck in conjunction with the typical drop blocks used at the frame attachments.
front_swaybar_disconnect.JPG
 
ok, now where are the flex pics with and without it hooked up...

Looks like it'd be easy for even me to duplicate - good work.
 
I have Phil's design and it's a non welded on solution. One observation I have is that the bushing bracket spreading itself open a little bit. also, I'm not sure if the lynch pin will wallow the bolt holes out over long term or not.

As far as the sway bar banging when disconnected traveling over rough roads, this doesn't happen.
 
There has been a bit of chat about this on WC, I may just go back and use the original bolt, It only took about a min. to remove it on both sides and as long as the vehicle is level, it should slip right out.

EDIT, all the Positive Lock Pins I have found have been in the $20-30 range each :eek:
 
Last edited:
i like the idea, but you probably will need to locate an alternate pin to stay in there. It's simple and effective, does it rattle at all when the sway bar is disconnected?
 
Guys, I don't want to discourage anyone here but I was also looking into something similar but more of an in-cab disconnect. From all the advise I was getting, disconnecting the swaybars just doesn't make a whole lot of difference because of the control arm design the 80's used. If it were a three of four link it would be a different story, I believe the max shock extension was a factor as well. I would also like to see some before and after comparisons. I was told this is part of the reason you don't see these guys manufacturing the kits and selling them, maybe they have all been there and done that and couldn't provide the numbers to show an improvement to back up the sales. Who knows if the comparisons are convincing enough I will get back on my project!
 
LUVMY804EVR said:
Guys, I don't want to discourage anyone here but I was also looking into something similar but more of an in-cab disconnect. From all the advise I was getting, disconnecting the swaybars just doesn't make a whole lot of difference because of the control arm design the 80's used. If it were a three of four link it would be a different story, I believe the max shock extension was a factor as well. I would also like to see some before and after comparisons. I was told this is part of the reason you don't see these guys manufacturing the kits and selling them, maybe they have all been there and done that and couldn't provide the numbers to show an improvement to back up the sales. Who knows if the comparisons are convincing enough I will get back on my project!
Click to expand...

Yes, the four bushing radius arm setup has a bunch of bind and removing the swaybar will do very little/nothing to improve the total flex. But the swaybar adds to the flex resistance/bind, disconnecting it allows the suspension to move easier, reducing the cab side to side movement on the trail. It's less about total flex and more about ride comfort. It's only a couple of bolts, so try it disconnected and see if it's worth it to you?
 
Disconnecting the front swaybar DOES loosen the front end up--from my seat-of-the-pants evaluation. Much less body movement.

Even if you just jack up a front corner of your truck using a hi-lift--with and with the swaybar connected--you can see a difference. With the sway bar connected, you can feel and see that your also lifting the other corner almost immediately. Without the swaybar, the other corner is much more disconnected :) from the corner your lifting.

Hayes
 
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