Front swaybar quick disconnect

[Vitesse_6]

Hi all.
This is what I did to for a quick disconnect on my FZJ80....

Here it sits in its normal position

Here in the bracket I cut, drilled and welded on

Here is a pic of how it looks from the stock position

The type os clevis pin I used, I dont know how well this will last, But I an trying to find a hardened positive locking pin

Big thanks to Phaedrus and Hayes for the thought.
I know the welds look shabby but they should hold the swaybar in place, Besides its a tight spot in there
Have fun

 

[Tools R Us]

Phil's simple bolt on setup, works great.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=22921

 

[Vitesse_6]

Phil's simple bolt on setup, works great.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=22921

Thanks

But I dont think the bracket is quite as simple as what I did, It looks like you still need to weld on that bracket

 

[Dusty]

fellas
do those quick disconnects allow the disconnected swaybar to go constantly banging on frame whilst you are wheeling?

 

[Vitesse_6]

fellas
do those quick disconnects allow the disconnected swaybar to go constantly banging on frame whilst you are wheeling?

I dont know how mine would hit the frame, There is almost 1" above the swaybar at its end, The rear is still connected to the frame with its pivot point.
HTH

 

[Vitesse_6]

Bump to see if anyone else has an opinion?
I am trying to source a pin like this, I just havent had time....
http://www.pivotpins.com/catalog/PsLckPns.shtml

 

[petrolhog]

Try www.Mcmaster.com search for quick release pins. I've seen a 3/8" rated to 26,000lbs in a double shear application.

 

[Shipwreck]

My local West Marine products store has a good selection of quick release pins. You may want to check your local boating or RV supply stores.

 

[Vitesse_6]

Thanks guy's!
I will see what I can find, Any other thoughts would be great. Thanks

 

[clownmidget]

I did this 2 years ago or so and it helps if you reinforce/weld the stock axle brackets more securely as they are not held on there very well. You can use some 1"x1"x0.25"walled tubing and some 1" wide 0.25" stock to raise the mount where you can more easily pull the pins - especially on the PS where it's tighter. There is a hole in the bottom of the stock bracket. We welded a 10-mm bolt in the bottom of the 1"x1" tube to act as a pin to assist with shearing forces. You could also squeeze a nut on the bottom of it above your front control arms but that seemed unnecessary. The other benefit of raising it is it helps with the location of the swaybar on a lifted truck in conjunction with the typical drop blocks used at the frame attachments.

 

[Walking Eagle]

ok, now where are the flex pics with and without it hooked up...

Looks like it'd be easy for even me to duplicate - good work.

 

[alia176]

I have Phil's design and it's a non welded on solution. One observation I have is that the bushing bracket spreading itself open a little bit. also, I'm not sure if the lynch pin will wallow the bolt holes out over long term or not.

As far as the sway bar banging when disconnected traveling over rough roads, this doesn't happen.

 

[Vitesse_6]

There has been a bit of chat about this on WC, I may just go back and use the original bolt, It only took about a min. to remove it on both sides and as long as the vehicle is level, it should slip right out.

EDIT, all the Positive Lock Pins I have found have been in the $20-30 range each

 

[ktmracer01]

i like the idea, but you probably will need to locate an alternate pin to stay in there. It's simple and effective, does it rattle at all when the sway bar is disconnected?

 

[alia176]

i like the idea, but you probably will need to locate an alternate pin to stay in there. It's simple and effective, does it rattle at all when the sway bar is disconnected?

No rattle. I prefer a lynch pin because of the large loop that comes around and sort of locks the whole thing in place. Lynch pins are from Ace hardware at around $5/each.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/alia176/album/576460762313603822/photo/294928803081222510/49

 

[on the rocks]

Guys, I don't want to discourage anyone here but I was also looking into something similar but more of an in-cab disconnect. From all the advise I was getting, disconnecting the swaybars just doesn't make a whole lot of difference because of the control arm design the 80's used. If it were a three of four link it would be a different story, I believe the max shock extension was a factor as well. I would also like to see some before and after comparisons. I was told this is part of the reason you don't see these guys manufacturing the kits and selling them, maybe they have all been there and done that and couldn't provide the numbers to show an improvement to back up the sales. Who knows if the comparisons are convincing enough I will get back on my project!

 

[Vitesse_6]

I dont know if the flex is all that much improved, But I will say it does move more freely, Good or bad I dont know, I have no way to test other than with a jack.
Good points though, I have read a bit about the lack of flex.

 

[Tools R Us]

Guys, I don't want to discourage anyone here but I was also looking into something similar but more of an in-cab disconnect. From all the advise I was getting, disconnecting the swaybars just doesn't make a whole lot of difference because of the control arm design the 80's used. If it were a three of four link it would be a different story, I believe the max shock extension was a factor as well. I would also like to see some before and after comparisons. I was told this is part of the reason you don't see these guys manufacturing the kits and selling them, maybe they have all been there and done that and couldn't provide the numbers to show an improvement to back up the sales. Who knows if the comparisons are convincing enough I will get back on my project!

Yes, the four bushing radius arm setup has a bunch of bind and removing the swaybar will do very little/nothing to improve the total flex. But the swaybar adds to the flex resistance/bind, disconnecting it allows the suspension to move easier, reducing the cab side to side movement on the trail. It's less about total flex and more about ride comfort. It's only a couple of bolts, so try it disconnected and see if it's worth it to you?

 

[Hayes]

Disconnecting the front swaybar DOES loosen the front end up--from my seat-of-the-pants evaluation. Much less body movement.

Even if you just jack up a front corner of your truck using a hi-lift--with and with the swaybar connected--you can see a difference. With the sway bar connected, you can feel and see that your also lifting the other corner almost immediately. Without the swaybar, the other corner is much more disconnected from the corner your lifting.

Hayes

 

[Vitesse_6]

I noticed that when I had the swaybar off over a weekend trip it would really lean in the corners.
I drove it to work today, I have a couple of rocks I can pose on, I will see if I can get some #'s on lunch