Upon replacing the seat gear parts to a different vehicle, I made sure to fish out all the broken teeth from the chewed up nylon gear.
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Once back in the truck, set it in place and plug in the power first, then test it a couple times just to make sure it works. Mine took a couple times going front & back before it kicked into its groove, not sure what was up so I removed it and loosened the white cap a little (something that made the DS work a little better). Put it back in and it was better, so I bolted it up.
Remember when you're installing any seat, get all 4 started before you tighten anything, otherwise it takes twice as long as it needs to. total time start to finish was about 1 hour. To test it, I sat in the seat and lifted my feat, then rode the seat forwards all the way and back all the way about 10x. After the first couple it seemed to run a little smoother, maybe they needed a little break-in period or something. That's probably the most that seat has had to move in 5 years though, usually it's just a little tweak here and there, often with months of no adjustment. So really not sure how long these will last, but if they're not abused I suspect they should last a long time.
I've got a couple test subjects who will be receiving their gears in the next couple days. I look forward to them posting up their results, and at that time will decide if these are for sale as-is, or if further development is required. But for now, I'm pretty satisfied and actually pretty psyched this all works.
ok, on with the comments..![]()
I marked the ends with a magic marker to make sure it lined back up.To take off the shaft bolts, hold the shaft with a vice grip. Remove the little plastic the rear supports, then unscrew the gear housing. When you remove the shafts from the slides of the seat, do your best not to allow the thing to twist at all, and thus change position. It's important that both sides are at the same position, in relation to each other, or it's going to try to push your seat crooked and probably not work too well.
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Mattl, If you look at older posts in this thread you'll find were other members have done the same thing. The problem you may have is both power seat Acme feed screws, one on each side of the seat frame, are not equal in length. That's causing one side of the seat frame to cock, and bind when you apply power, and that can strip your new gear. If you read some of the older posts in this thread, they'll tell you how to check, and adjust the feed screws to make sure their both equal in length before you install your next gear.Started with the passenger side and stripped the new gear good and proper...not sure what happened.
Mattl, If you look at older posts in this thread you'll find were other members have done the same thing. The problem you may have is both power seat Acme feed screws, one on each side of the seat frame, are not equal in length. That's causing one side of the seat frame to cock, and bind when you apply power, and that can strip your new gear. If you read some of the older posts in this thread, they'll tell you how to check, and adjust the feed screws to make sure their both equal in length before you install your next gear.
What about when the tracks are unbolted, can they slide freely by hand? Stick some grease down there, really make sure it is as lubed as can be and slides real nice with nothing hooked up to it. Most I've seen will get pretty loose and happy in the center of travel, then start to feel like they're binding up towards the end, this seems normal.
I fixed a seat this Sunday, someone local to me couldn't fit his so I offered to give it a shot. It was the worst condition I'd ever seen- the old grease in the gear boxes had turned into some type of dried up honey, so much so that the metal part could not even spin in the plastic. Had to take a wire wheel to the metal shaft after I pressed the old gear off of it. Never seen this before, and it was this conditions on both sides even. So before you put anything back together, if that gear shaft can't even turn inside the housing, well that gear is going to strip again right away.
So after totally cleaning off the metal parts, I pressed on new gears, verified they would spin freely then cleaned the housings up real well and put some more grease on the gears, then put them together. Used the space between the welded stop washer on the lead screw and the bearing thing that bolts on to the slides to judge the same spacing on both sides, that seemed to work well. Then put T-tape on the white cap as the housing was stripped out a little, and of course only ran it down until the top of the cap was flush with the housing. Everything is snug, won't come loose again, but nothing is really cranked.. after that the seat slides under power again.
Pretty much every time someone struggles the problem is the white cap is in too far, there's another obstruction on the tracks that needs to be worked free, or a misalignment between sides, in that order. #4 would be they got impatient pressing the gear and did it too fast, too cold, or too crooked... hope that helps!![]()
That seems to be the most common cause of failure.limbee1, did your cap fall out resulting in the stripping?
Last time my cap fell out, i used some Teflon tape to fix it. I just put 3 wraps of Teflon tape around the threads on the cap, and reinstalled it. That turned out to be just enough tape to keep the cap from wanting to back out of the hole.I stuck a piece of tape over the new cap.