Front Recovery Points

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I ordered that set from Duiser abut 2 years ago and they work just fine. The majority of the extra threads on that ARB bumper mounting bolt has since been cut off after this photo was taken!

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Is Duisers still in business?
 
^It appears they are. Just browsed their website. Going to call them about the brackets later today.

Nm. Just read that thread about them.
 
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There's some interest here, I wish someone would fab something better and sell it. I don't have the technical expertise to know what I special order is good enough. @spressomon, what would these run for a pair when you were making them? Seems like the market has dried up.

The last time, which has been a few years ago, they would need to sell for $200/pr. Keep in mind I designed and fabricated my FRBv2 with a high quality design and strength ratio as the highest priority. I wasn't interested in offering anything less...which would have been more attractive for price but at a compromise in strength. I had mine destructive tested so I could soundly and safely recommend a WLL which to the best of my knowledge no other recovery point mfg has done...

While on subject: In the world of off-road recovery these low frame mounted recovery points/anchors generally are not very useful. Generally, if using a stock bumper (and some aftermarket bumpers) you will get interference between the lower fascia of the bumper and a winch line. Additionally if you're stuck in the mud, like I was a couple weeks ago, front or rear frame mounted recovery anchors are less than ideal (because of the inconvenience for accessing the recovery point mainly).

IMO a better solution, assuming you don't/can't opt for a properly designed bumper(s) with solid and smartly designed recovery anchors, would be to fab something like Jay DeShelter aka @Snook did years ago for a better suited recovery anchor (for his then modded ARB front bumper; #108). You would need to cut a small window on the front bumper for each recovery plate pass through but what you gain in versatility is more than offset by cutting the plastic OEM bumper.

If you venture off-road its just a matter of time until you will need solid and properly positioned recovery anchors!
 
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@spressomon Until I get a front bumper, I ordered a set of recovery points from Marks4x4 in Au. Would you recommend a backing plate in the front frame rail? Would it be best to do that and weld a nut to the top of the backing plate?
 
I've used the ones from Duiser's and they work great... I have them on the front and rear. I have bought a few things there over the years, and have never had a problem with customer service, shipping, or anything.
 
I've used the ones from Duiser's and they work great... I have them on the front and rear. I have bought a few things there over the years, and have never had a problem with customer service, shipping, or anything.

I emailed and called them before ordering and they never got back to me or I would have used them.

Marks4x4 was about $140 usd shipped. No big savings buying more than one set on shipping or I would have bought a few sets to distribute.
 
@spressomon Until I get a front bumper, I ordered a set of recovery points from Marks4x4 in Au. Would you recommend a backing plate in the front frame rail? Would it be best to do that and weld a nut to the top of the backing plate?

@TXLX100 Yes a backing plate to distribute the force is highly recommended. IMO the OEM threaded "nut-serts shouldn't be trusted for anything more than what Mr. T intended; holding the truck down on the container it arrived to the USA in or a very light load pull.

Best way to put your mind at ease: Fab crush sleeves for inside the frame horns and through bolt & nut the brackets. It's only overkill if nothing breaks ;)
 
Just got a set of recovery points for my 03 LC from Trail Tailor. Powder coated and shipped (no bolts) for $75. Picked up 12.9 bolts and hardware for $14 at a local shop.
 
Probably a dumb question, but how are people getting the bolts out to put in the Trail Tailor recovery points? There is no rust on the undercarriage of my 100 (Colorado car it's whole life), but I can't even get the damn bolts loose with an impact driver that supposedly goes to 200 lb ft. Is a breaker bar my next best option here?

And how tight do the new bolts need to be?
 
My 8 Amp Kobalt 1/2" impact wrench couldn't get my stock bolts to break loose. My 1/2" breaker bar got it off with a nice hard pull. I torqued mine down per the specs I found here a while back.
 
Was planning on going the Trail Tailor route but Jason has been out of stock for a bit. Has anyone tried something like these?

 
Subbed. Need one too. Hope arb makes one just like for the 200 series.
 
I'm more concerned about the frame and captured nuts. On arguably the "toughest" Land Cruiser, the 70 series.... that frame area is reinforced.

From the hard abuse I have witness in Africa I would not worry in the least. And when its all done it doubles as an attachment point for a tow bar.:hillbilly:

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Old style steel shackle versions are back in stock now. Soft shackle (mill radiused eyes) will be available hopefully tomorrow, waiting on the powder coater.

J

Good reminder for me. I've done a great job twisting the front hook!
 
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