Front Recovery Points
- Thread starter ozmanyyy
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It's not the sturdiest. I used one to get yanked out because of no other option. I had my foot hovering the brake the whole time in case it let go.
There were some aftermarket options (Duiser, @spressomon), but I haven't found a suitable replacement yet. Marks 4x4 in Oz sells a kit, but I'm not sure if it's what I want yet.
There were some aftermarket options (Duiser, @spressomon), but I haven't found a suitable replacement yet. Marks 4x4 in Oz sells a kit, but I'm not sure if it's what I want yet.
No no no no please do not use those tie down points as recovery points unless you have nothing else at all! The hook is alright to use for recovery.
http://duiser.com/shop/100-series-accessories/100-series-recovery-point-urb-pair/ <- !! According to members, they are not a reliable vendor !!
on the front will work great. Make sure you torque your bolts back up to spec if you do purchase something like these.
EDIT: Fabbing something up similar to this would not necessarily be difficult provided you have access to tools for fabrication, see the post below
If you have a proper tow hitch receiver (not the in bumper one), http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O?tag=ihco-20 will work as a proper rear recovery point.
Now, in a pinch (no other choice), you can theoretically fit a 3/4" d-ring shackle through the tie down point, but there is a much higher chance that it will give out. Any kinetic recovery is generally a big no no with tie down points, but dead pulling can be done... winching would probably be the safest bet if you have to use the tie down points.
on the front will work great. Make sure you torque your bolts back up to spec if you do purchase something like these.
EDIT: Fabbing something up similar to this would not necessarily be difficult provided you have access to tools for fabrication, see the post below
If you have a proper tow hitch receiver (not the in bumper one), http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O?tag=ihco-20 will work as a proper rear recovery point.
Now, in a pinch (no other choice), you can theoretically fit a 3/4" d-ring shackle through the tie down point, but there is a much higher chance that it will give out. Any kinetic recovery is generally a big no no with tie down points, but dead pulling can be done... winching would probably be the safest bet if you have to use the tie down points.
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The best thing for front recovery on a 100 is to have a machine shop make you something like this. I made these out of 1/2" angle. Keep the shackle hole as close to the frame as possible to lower the stress on the bolts. Mine may look high but it's because I needed them that way for the shackles to clear the ARB bumper mount brackets.
To add: While on subject, since its something I know a little about, the recovery point is only as good as what it is anchored to. The OEM captive nuts IMHO don't do an effective job of spreading the load that can be imparted in a recovery situation that involves a mud-stuck vehicle, etc.
And with a little corrosion around the captive nut...it only gets worse. The real solution is to fab a thick plate that slips into the horn of the frame so that it facilitates either through bolted/nutted with grade 10.9 (preferably 12.9) or if adequately thick drill and tap the plate for direct bolt on of the recovery points.
Note: You will need to cut off the front sheet metal of the front of each frame rail/horn to be able to access the interior of same...
And per others: Remove and throw the J hook away...no bueno for anything more than holding the LC to the shipping container for its ride over from Japan...
And with a little corrosion around the captive nut...it only gets worse. The real solution is to fab a thick plate that slips into the horn of the frame so that it facilitates either through bolted/nutted with grade 10.9 (preferably 12.9) or if adequately thick drill and tap the plate for direct bolt on of the recovery points.
Note: You will need to cut off the front sheet metal of the front of each frame rail/horn to be able to access the interior of same...
And per others: Remove and throw the J hook away...no bueno for anything more than holding the LC to the shipping container for its ride over from Japan...
??? Admittedly, I'm not fond of the shape and I prefer shackle mounts, but seems to me that Toyota would likely not put on a recovery hook that is not designed to withstand at least normal recoveries. And parenthetically, also that that hook seems utterly unsuitable for your normal tiedowns on a ship (what container?), that's what the tiedown brackets are for.
Too much coffee...?
Come on Eric...I thought you were an engineer?! The J brackets, besides being single sheer, are cast...and there have been reports of them snapping. But hey knock yourself out using one...literally.
Take one down to your local crane/rigging operator...and listen how loud they laugh at you when you ask them to use it with a 5T load. No bueno buddy.
Take one down to your local crane/rigging operator...and listen how loud they laugh at you when you ask them to use it with a 5T load. No bueno buddy.
Tow hook, not recovery hook. It can take being winched onto a flat bed or being pulled on flat ground, not a shock load from a snatch strap.
Sure, I'll certainly go with it being probably more intended as a tow hook than for hard recoveries, but that's a far cry from saying it's only suitable for tie downs. And sure, I would not use it for snatch pulls, not that I ever do those.
See if you can source some
Off a newer tundra. Those suckers are beefy. Don't have a photo of them to post but the guys in the 200 forum are using them with success.
Off a newer tundra. Those suckers are beefy. Don't have a photo of them to post but the guys in the 200 forum are using them with success.
Here's my stock 200 one and the tundras are larger.
that 200 one certainly looks like a stronger design than the 100 hook but it seems like it would be hard to use that under a frame rail that extends further horizontally unless you use a big spacer. And the point of the long hook on the 100 was to clear the plastic nonsense I imagine.
That's mounted / bolted at the very end (underside) of my frame..I think that's what you're saying. Is the 100 series a different set up : meaning the recovery point not at the end (very near) of the frame?
Nevermind I see. It doesn't clear the front facia or hang down enough.
Got it. I thought I had a cure for your question carry on
Got it. I thought I had a cure for your question carry on
I think (not sure) it might conceivably work in the back if the bumper face does not go down below lower frame level but in the front the rail extends quite a bit further forward than the captive nuts and there is some metal brackets up front that would be in the way I believe, it's more than just the plastic in the way. I suppose a fat spacer would make it clear things but that is problematic in itself if it's not welded (well) to the frame.
added: the above for the '03, don't know about other years...
added: the above for the '03, don't know about other years...
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Based on the threads in the sponsors forum, I would be very very hesitant to do business with Duiser.
There's some interest here, I wish someone would fab something better and sell it. I don't have the technical expertise to know what I special order is good enough. @spressomon, what would these run for a pair when you were making them? Seems like the market has dried up.