Front Panhard Rod Question

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Joined
Jan 2, 2024
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Location
Houston, TX
Hello,
I have been a member for a while, but since I was busy in tear-down mode for my 97, I did not have too many questions. However, I am now getting ready to start the rebuild and the questions are coming. My first one regards the front panhard rod. I searched and did not find a definitive answer for this.

I am looking at a Dobinsons 0-3" lift package. Probably most of you know that they offer an adjustable front panhard rod as an add-on. Of course, my question is how does this work considering that the non-adjustable OEM rod is curved? I did see that Terrain Tamer offers both straight and curved adjustable panhard rods, so there is something going on here, but I do not understand it.

Thanks!
 
The front Panhard bar is curved due to diff. My Dobinsons adjustable Panhard bar is curved for my US LX450, like OEM.

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It is curved as well for right hand drive due to bracketery.
1726588422497.png
 
Thanks for your response. From what I see on their US website, the panhard bar is not curved. This is their part number, PR59-1408. Maybe the photo on their website is not the actual photo. Probably I need to call and ask them.
 
Thanks for your response. From what I see on their US website, the panhard bar is not curved. This is their part number, PR59-1408. Maybe the photo on their website is not the actual photo. Probably I need to call and ask them.

That is the exact Panhard bar that I have: PR59-1408 and you are right, the web site shows it is straight, but it is indeed curved.
 
Thanks for both replies. So goes my first question. Would the stock panhard work with say a max 3" lift?

Also, I have another suspension question but related to a different subject. Maybe I should start a new post for that.
It will work just fine. Just be sure to put new OEM bushing in it and you'll be alright. I changed to poly bushingson my factory pandhard when I did my 3 link and it still works. I'll change it when other things change up there, but it still works
 
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I went with an adjustable panhard bar because the front diff moves closer to the engine with a lift and with a LS engine, you need all the clearance you can get between the oil pan and diff.

Edited to clarify...

By centering the front axle after a lift, which means moving the front axle towards the passenger side, I gain a small bit more clearance between the front diff and a LS oil pan under compression with an adjustable panhard bar.
 
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Thanks for both replies. So goes my first question. Would the stock panhard work with say a max 3" lift?

Also, I have another suspension question but related to a different subject. Maybe I should start a new post for that.
Have a lot of customers who install our 3" panhard lift bracket for the rear and leave the front alone and love the handling of that setup.
 
^^^ Agreed 100%, other than replacing bushings I haven't seen a need for an adjustable bar up front with a touch over 3" of lift. Rear bracket made a noticeable difference in handling.
 
Have a lot of customers who install our 3" panhard lift bracket for the rear and leave the front alone and love the handling of that setup.
OK, that sounds reasonable. I think you would be a good person for my second question.

You, Deltvs, offer hydraulic bumpstop holders for King or Icon bumpstops. Can I ask what do these do? They seem sort of like mini-shocks to help the main shocks. What do these do that the OEM hollow spring does not?
 
OK, that sounds reasonable. I think you would be a good person for my second question.

You, Deltvs, offer hydraulic bumpstop holders for King or Icon bumpstops. Can I ask what do these do? They seem sort of like mini-shocks to help the main shocks. What do these do that the OEM hollow spring does not?
That is exactly what they do. Application is more towards high speeds and big bumps. I would say go drive and if you are bottoming out suspension when driving hard, that’s when you should start thinking about them.
 
Thanks for both replies. So goes my first question. Would the stock panhard work with say a max 3" lift?

Also, I have another suspension question but related to a different subject. Maybe I should start a new post for that.
I’ve run a 2”, 3”, and 4” lift with the stock front panhard. Totally don’t sweat it. Feel free to dm with any suspension questions, I’m far from an expert, but I’ve screwed up a lot of stuff and can let you know what to avoid😂
 
The adjustable pan hard let you keep the front axle centered with the lift.
Most people will net 4” or more of lift with a 3” lift kit.
If you weld Slee and a few others offer a weld on adjustable kit for the OEM pan hard bar 😜 that’s what I use.
There also a weld on rear PH relocation kit.
 
with our trucks, after the lift the front axle shifts left while the rear axle s***s right. I like to correct for that because I do a lot of long distance driving and want to be sure the truck tracks as true as possible. I use weld in joints as there have been cases where the aftermarket bars have broken. Don't know the brand and don't care, haven't see a failure with the factory bars so I use them.
 
with our trucks, after the lift the front axle shifts left while the rear axle s***s right. I like to correct for that because I do a lot of long distance driving and want to be sure the truck tracks as true as possible. I use weld in joints as there have been cases where the aftermarket bars have broken. Don't know the brand and don't care, haven't see a failure with the factory bars so I use them.
Well, that doesn't sound very good. I will need to think that over.
 
If I remember correctly Land Tank has a weld in kit as well.
If you don’t weld you could probably have it done for less then the cost of after market.

If you do weld then it’s a no-brainer.

Personally I like the axles centered and tracking true also. 😎
 
If I remember correctly Land Tank has a weld in kit as well.
If you don’t weld you could probably have it done for less then the cost of after market.

If you do weld then it’s a no-brainer.

Personally I like the axles centered and tracking true also. 😎
I am not a suspension expert in any way, but last night I focused on the panhard rods and it seems to me they have a tough job in the suspension. If what I am about to say is incorrect, I hope someone will correct me.

If the vehicle sits immobile, in its OEM state, perfectly aligned, at its design weight, it seems the panhard rods should be neutral, neither in tension or compression. However, if the vehicle gains weight causing the frame to lower by some amount, both panhard rods will then be in compression, which will attempt to push the front axle to the right and the rear axle to the left. Conversely, if the vehicle loses weight causing the frame to rise by some amount, both panhard rods will then be in tension, which will attempt to pull the front axle to the left and the rear axle to the right. This is for a static, immobile situation.

When the vehicle is moving the same process will occur as it goes down the road. The difference being that the panhard rods will be cycling between tension-compression as the vehicle goes over dips and bumps. At high speed on a rough road, the life of a panhard bar is pretty tough.

Now, consider when a suspension lift is added. Doing this with the OEM panhard bars will put both into tension, which will then attempt to pull the front axle left and pull the rear axle right. This matches Landtank's real world observations above. Depending on lift height, it would likely be difficult/impossible to reconnect the OEM panhard bars because they are now too short.

From my outsider thinking, there would be two solutions.

First, is to lower the frame attachment points for both panhard bars. The amount to lower them is that amount which makes them neutral, neither in tension or compression when the vehicle is at rest, perfectly aligned, and at its average weight. This method has the benefit of retaining the OEM geometry, but the lowered attachment brackets are under greater stress than were the OEM attachment points. The other problem is the difficulty in figuring out the exact amount to lower those attachment points and likely they have to be designed individually for each situation.

Second, is to use adjustable length panhard bars. These have the benefit of allowing length adjustment to suit individual lift variations but have the disadvantage of altering slightly the OEM geometry.

Finally, in Landtank's experience, aftermarket adjustable front panhard bars have a higher rate of failure compared with the OEM. I have no experience here, but I accept that. For sure, the life of a panhard bar is really tough, but it seems that someone could make a beefed up front panhard bar that would never fail, but maybe the cost prohibits that.

Sorry for the rambling, but writing the above has hopefully helped me understand (a tiny bit more) about the arcane life of a panhard bar...
 

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