If I remember correctly Land Tank has a weld in kit as well.
If you don’t weld you could probably have it done for less then the cost of after market.
If you do weld then it’s a no-brainer.
Personally I like the axles centered and tracking true also.
I am not a suspension expert in any way, but last night I focused on the panhard rods and it seems to me they have a tough job in the suspension. If what I am about to say is incorrect, I hope someone will correct me.
If the vehicle sits immobile, in its OEM state, perfectly aligned, at its design weight, it seems the panhard rods should be neutral, neither in tension or compression. However, if the vehicle gains weight causing the frame to lower by some amount, both panhard rods will then be in compression, which will attempt to push the front axle to the right and the rear axle to the left. Conversely, if the vehicle loses weight causing the frame to rise by some amount, both panhard rods will then be in tension, which will attempt to pull the front axle to the left and the rear axle to the right. This is for a static, immobile situation.
When the vehicle is moving the same process will occur as it goes down the road. The difference being that the panhard rods will be cycling between tension-compression as the vehicle goes over dips and bumps. At high speed on a rough road, the life of a panhard bar is pretty tough.
Now, consider when a suspension lift is added. Doing this with the OEM panhard bars will put both into tension, which will then attempt to pull the front axle left and pull the rear axle right. This matches Landtank's real world observations above. Depending on lift height, it would likely be difficult/impossible to reconnect the OEM panhard bars because they are now too short.
From my outsider thinking, there would be two solutions.
First, is to lower the frame attachment points for both panhard bars. The amount to lower them is that amount which makes them neutral, neither in tension or compression when the vehicle is at rest, perfectly aligned, and at its average weight. This method has the benefit of retaining the OEM geometry, but the lowered attachment brackets are under greater stress than were the OEM attachment points. The other problem is the difficulty in figuring out the exact amount to lower those attachment points and likely they have to be designed individually for each situation.
Second, is to use adjustable length panhard bars. These have the benefit of allowing length adjustment to suit individual lift variations but have the disadvantage of altering slightly the OEM geometry.
Finally, in Landtank's experience, aftermarket adjustable front panhard bars have a higher rate of failure compared with the OEM. I have no experience here, but I accept that. For sure, the life of a panhard bar is really tough, but it seems that someone could make a beefed up front panhard bar that would never fail, but maybe the cost prohibits that.
Sorry for the rambling, but writing the above has hopefully helped me understand (a tiny bit more) about the arcane life of a panhard bar...
that’s what I use. 
