Front Flex? (1 Viewer)

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Yep, market size definately hinders things. I think the 3 link from Outback was actually offered for sale on their site for some period of time - I remember seeing it, just not sure if I saw it in a dream :) . I believe it was quite expensive.

For me, the 80 is the cheapest 4 dr, solid axle truck with factory lockers. $11K 5 years ago, this thing was a bargin. Couple hundred bucks for used J's and L's and a set of 35's, and I was embarassing 90% of the Heaps at Disney. I wanted more, so I did the 14" shocks, and am glad I did. Now, it's time to go to the next level - thus the 37's, and a little more front flex. But I have 5 years with the truck, nearly 4 since lifting it. I've slowed down since second child, but used to wheel 2 weekends a month, and spent alot of time under the truck while wheeling measuring this, and that, and gone through 3 sets of bumpstop drops in the rear, two in the front, ect. ect. ect. My progress is slow (due to money - dang IRS - and time - two toddlers) and measured (due to being an engineer). It may take all of 2010 to do something to free up this front end, but I will do something eventually, and since I don't have to worry about market demands - I'm fine with my timeline being undetermined.

In the meantime, I'll still argue that gaining flex does not dictate a floppy jalopy. I'll still insist that stiff springs are not the only way of managing sway. I'll still pontificate on a 3 link being harder to do correctly than throwing on a RE long arm radius arm. And I'll continue to be interested in anything new that comes out to aid in gaining controled flex, be it X-link, SE arms, hydrolic bumpstops, airbags, or torsion bar swaybars.....
 
They bought a 80 since it drives well on the road and can wheel relatively difficult trails. Now they changed the truck so much that they lost the whole reason they went to an 80 in the first place. They then either go back to square one, or they go buggy. I talk to a lot of people that got caught up in the hardcore wheeling that is now going back to exploring, family friendly back country recreation.
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exactly
the 80 used to be our family car. now the 100 is

i almost sold the 80 a year ago. I want a buggy. But ive finally got my wife (who is from Villa Park-orange county) to take the 4 kids with us on wheeling trips and the 80 is the perfect truck for this. I can take 4 kids up stuff that built tjs are struggling with. they feel stupid when i walk their obstacle with 4 kids watching chittychitty bang bang on their dvd players and oblivious to the whole thing. The 80 is not hardcore-you cant make it hardcore. But i dont think mini-trucks are hardcore any more either.

Hardcore has 300hp, at leaste 35splines, and weighs less than 4000 lbs.
 
Floppy jalopy, slinky dinky... you guys are funny! :flipoff2:

(The tech content here is really quite good too :D)
 
Hardcore has 300hp, at leaste 35splines, and weighs less than 4000 lbs.

Hardcore around here has rocks or unimog axles, 3 t-cases, and 49"+ tires. It's not at all uncommon to see someone on 53" military tires at Disney

Big Meat Run 2009 - Car Videos on StreetFire

Got to drive this 'bronco' once, Bored 460 push'n 500hp, steering mog axles on both ends, and 49" Iroks
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i like those big machines but they are too big for me. im thinking about a KOH machine-37's, less than 4:1 single tcased atlas, diamond 9" 35sp axles, low, lightweight, and crazy fast. they will go more of the places i want to go. And i dont need a semi to pull a koh rig.

but back to tech. I must admit that I miss the stock axles on 37's because with 37's I could still drive the truck and family to and from the trail where I need to trailer everywhere now. And honestly if you are using the 80 as a family wheeler then you shouldn't be doing the trails that require you to build an 80 into something it is not. (note to self)
 
I plan to 3-link the front of mine, use a anti-rock style swaybar in the rear, nothing on the front, move the steering to the front of the axle if I can figure it out :) and see how she does with 14" shocks...37's and wheels are supposed to arrive this week. 2" Body lift will be done today...

Chris
 
I plan to 3-link the front of mine, use a anti-rock style swaybar in the rear, nothing on the front, move the steering to the front of the axle if I can figure it out :) and see how she does with 14" shocks...37's and wheels are supposed to arrive this week. 2" Body lift will be done today...

Chris

You allready have one problem - you're too tall :) 6" lift springs and 2" body lift? I'm at 4 and 1, Nay is at like 3.5 for 37's, Plan on gett'n 44's soon? :)
 
I'm at 4 and 1, Nay is at like 3.5 for 37's, Plan on gett'n 44's soon? :)

Stop it. I keep telling myself I'm staying with 35's, and people pointing out that you can fit 37's on 3.5"-5" doesn't help. :bang:
 
well, fitting 37's with alot less lift than you've got isn't really an opinion, it's a reality. Now, saying you're too tall for 37's, that's an opinion, thus the smiley faces - but in all seriousness, at that height, it will be much more difficult (not impossible, just difficult) to manage sway and road manners.
 
course, I've also always wanted to see someone just slap one of these on and say dam the low hanging brackets...

BDS Suspension - Shackles
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well, fitting 37's with alot less lift than you've got isn't really an opinion, it's a reality.
Yes, it's definitely possible to clear the 37's with less lift...no doubt about it. I'm not interested in dragging the undercarriage all the time, though.
Now, saying you're too tall for 37's, that's an opinion, thus the smiley faces - but in all seriousness, at that height, it will be much more difficult (not impossible, just difficult) to manage sway and road manners.
Honestly, I drove it today from the house to the tire shop to get the 37's put on, and with as stiff as the springs are, yeah it sways in turns, but it's not crazy. Now, make an abrupt maneuver, and that's a whole different ball game. That's where the swaybars come into play and will fix that no problem. Tires/wheels are getting put on as we speak...still stock bumpers, so it looks retarded with the gaps, but I'll snap some pics later tonight when they're done with it.

Chris
 
Hey guys, does anybody know how to get some extra flex on the front of an 80?:flipoff2:

Nope, but we know how to argue and pontificate :)

BTW - TAC is gonna be Disney this weekend, I'm planning on finally gett'n the 37's dirty if you're interested...
 
Ick. That'd hang up on everything. Worse than our current arms/brackets.

Yes, it's definitely possible to clear the 37's with less lift...no doubt about it. I'm not interested in dragging the undercarriage all the time, though.
Chris

clearance at the frame is not an issue- you wont drag there. the draggin is with that huge ass that hangs out over the back of your 80. make it as low as possible. i have experimented with 4" of lift and 6" of lift on the front of my 80. It felt/drove so much better with 4" of lift up front but i was forced to run 6" (4" slee mediums + 2"spacers) lift due to the 14" shocks I baught. someday i will get 12" shocks and pull the spacers. 4" slee heavies in the back. somebody want to give me $150 shipped for a pair of superheavy valved 14" fox shocks?

and that front bracket wont work anyway as the 80 framerail in the front angles in but the brackets must angle out. start over
 
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somebody want to give me $150 shipped for a pair of superheavy valved 14" fox shocks?

How heavy is the valving? Too hard for a DD? I might be interested.
 
and that front bracket wont work anyway as the 80 framerail in the front angles in but the brackets must angle out. start over

Where's everyone's sense of humor ;)
 
clearance at the frame is not an issue- you wont drag there. the draggin is with that huge ass that hangs out over the back of your 80.
I took care of the huge overhang in the rear today...mocked up the rear bumper and outside of the round tube, it will be done tomorrow. I did two clevis mounts at frame width, welded in hitch tube, and tomorrow I'll finish chopping the frame and mounting it. No more big overhang for me. :)
make it as low as possible. i have experimented with 4" of lift and 6" of lift on the front of my 80. It felt/drove so much better with 4" of lift up front but i was forced to run 6" (4" slee mediums + 2"spacers) lift due to the 14" shocks I baught. someday i will get 12" shocks and pull the spacers. 4" slee heavies in the back. somebody want to give me $150 shipped for a pair of superheavy valved 14" fox shocks?

and that front bracket wont work anyway as the 80 framerail in the front angles in but the brackets must angle out. start over
I'm building this rig to do bigger stuff, so low hanging doesn't appeal to me. And, I think with a properly setup suspension 3-linked in the front and balanced front and rear, the term floppy jallopy won't apply. I haven't seen any built 80's with anti-rock swaybars in the rear, but maybe I've missed them.

Chris
 

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