Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I DD mine without fron or rear Sway bars . . but I usually never run it over 64mph ..
Front Flex? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter akarilo
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I think the biggest thing being talked about here is balance between front and rear, regardless if with or without a swaybar, basically whatever it takes to make them work in unison, so when you drop off a ledge as mentioned above, instead of the front not moving down the ledge and supporting the vehicle, it drops the equivalent amount as the rear so the vehicle remains nice and flat as you descend. This can often be accomplished with softer springs and spacers, so the lift height stays the same but the coils flex better. Again, I haven't put my life on my LX yet to really know the dynamic of the truck...just speaking from past experience on 3rd gen 4runners. That's a primary case of the similar problem...front IFS and excellent flex in the rear overcompensating for the front's lack of flex.
Chris
Chris
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
from the SE page ..
Super flex radius arms are to suit 4 inch .
These are the most revolutionary design in suspension in many years, by simply bolting on these radius arms they will give you twice the flex over any other radius arm on the market for much the same price, even cheaper than some of the other brands.
The kit simply bolts on with an adapter plate on the passenger side and a standard drop radius arm on the Drivers side.
Tested in competion proving winning placings and with no on road problems these are the solution for anyone who is after maximum ground clearance with maximum flex.
Ask yourself Why not have more flex and the same driveabilty.
My front is rarely installed in the wheeling months, typically installed in the winter months. Not a big deal, but huge increase in balance offroad.
from the SE page ..
Super flex radius arms are to suit 4 inch .
These are the most revolutionary design in suspension in many years, by simply bolting on these radius arms they will give you twice the flex over any other radius arm on the market for much the same price, even cheaper than some of the other brands.
The kit simply bolts on with an adapter plate on the passenger side and a standard drop radius arm on the Drivers side.
Tested in competion proving winning placings and with no on road problems these are the solution for anyone who is after maximum ground clearance with maximum flex.
Ask yourself Why not have more flex and the same driveabilty.
Very cool. Bolt on y-link. But these are not 80 compatible, correct?
Looks like they are available:
Chris
Chris
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I'm about to install the Slee 6" with their arms...are these SE ones going to be that much better, or just that much better over stock?
Chris
Chris
This is why I think that you are going to struggle with that lift you just bought. I'll be interested to see how you address it.
Removing the front sway and leaving the rear on is a significant balance factor because it does relieve some resistance on the front end despite having little practical effect on total flex (the front moves easier within its limited range). It also prevents ripping off the mount that takes out the brake hard line. I am shocked anybody would wheel hard enough to need to redesign the front end and keep the front bar attached for that very reason.
The next issue is that most 80 lifts add longer pin mount shocks to account for lift, and this increases total shock travel when only the rear can use it. Walking Eagle for example has a 14" travel shock setup in the rear and is dealing with a suspension dynamic where the rear corner opposite the dropping front tire is going to jack easily and quickly, allowing unloading front to rear to the roll side. This is a fairly predictable result that has been engineered into the system. If coming down is your concern, the last thing in the world you want is a completely unhinged rear suspension. That is why serious crawlers who have long travel suspensions design in limiting straps to prevent unloading.
The alternative approach is using eye adapters to space down shock travel - deliberately not adding rear travel that the front cannot use is a significant factor in retaining front to rear balance.
The 80 is in many ways too heavy to be on all coils (hence that rigid front end), and it presents major complications in balancing spring rate and offroad performance. Take a hard look at the FOR Gen II coils and you'll get an idea of how to make both work in the same coil along with a lightly valved shock.
I wonder why only modify the arm on one side. It is very interesting, I'd like to see some pics of the results as driveability would seem largely unaffected.
I don't have a front sway bar. Hell I don't even know where it is now, LOL. I have thought about doing a 3 link, but the way I look at it is I plan on changing the axles in the next year or so, and when I do that I will build a fourlink and coilovers or something. As for Nay saying drag it over everything, that is precisely what I do. Get lots of armor. On the big, heavy, low framed pic it makes a big difference. Here before too long I am going to get the IPOR skid.
D
The SE ones are designed to improve flex - Slee are just longer than stock and correct the castor for the lift. They don't claim greater flex, and with stock bushings I doubt it would deliever any greater flex.
The same reason you gain flex pulling one of the bolts. Also the same reason dropped arms flex better than stock mount - it's the different paths of the DS and PS that are creating the bind. It's also why Y link radius arms flex better, well, at least part of it. The axle twists forward and backward as well, and if there is a mount to the front and back of the axle, that its going to resist that movement more than if it has two mounts in line behind the axle. Even better yet if those two mounts are set up to be the same distance from the arm mount.
and the front too
That's a crock. Too heavy to be on all coils? It's all a matter of doing it properly. I've seen a few monster trucks on all coils do well. Also have buggies around here that weigh every bit as much as my 80 running on coils - lots of 44+ tires on buggies and jeeps around here, very few leaves
fortunately the front, unlike the rear, is easy to put a quick disconnect on.
Nobody has talked about the coils, as far as how to retain them, if the front flex could be improved. Slee said before regarding Action Jackson's 3-link that the coils won't like the forced compression from a longevity standpoint. and capturing them in the upper coil cone would have to be considered.
Coil overs would have to be used unless someone comes up with some super slinky coils, but then as Nay says, the 80 is what it is, and you toss the drivability out the window then. 6" and no front swaybar= fun to drive!
Ravencr, don't expect alot out of the front!
Coil overs would have to be used unless someone comes up with some super slinky coils, but then as Nay says, the 80 is what it is, and you toss the drivability out the window then. 6" and no front swaybar= fun to drive!
Ravencr, don't expect alot out of the front!
