Front end suspension work - advisement, thank you

[calimba]

Thanks in advance, does the list above look right? I want to refresh my front end a bit.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Is this list from a dealership? What year of truck and how many miles? What work has been done prior? Are you experiencing issues in the front end or is this "just because"?

 

[calimba]

Is this list from a dealership? What year of truck and how many miles? What work has been done prior? Are you experiencing issues in the front end or is this "just because"?

Thank you, sorry for the lack of details:

2004 LC 100, my friend is a master mechanic and have done a ton of work for me, I just got a starter and alternator from the dealership. I am trying to do preventative maintenance to hopefully avoid a pull over the highway suspension.

No issues in the front end, trying to be preventative:

Front​

• Front shocks/struts replaced (both sides) — OEM
  
  Dec 19, 2022 — 160,764 mi (Lexus of Santa Barbara;
• Four-wheel alignments
  • Dec 19, 2022 — 160,764 mi (post-shock/rack work).
  • Aug 10, 2017 — 124,767 mi (with new tires/balance).
  • Apr 12, 2010 — 65,594 mi (with new tires).
  • Mar 28, 2008 — 39,213 mi (with new tires).
  • Apr 18, 2025 — 169,741 mi (Pep Boys, after new tires).
• Steering rack & hoses replaced (steering but suspension-adjacent)
  
  Dec 19, 2022 — 160,764 mi (new rack/hoses).
• Front driveline items affecting front-end feel (not suspension, but relevant):
  
  Front differential carrier replaced and RF axle shaft replaced — Dec 19, 2022 — 160,764 mi.

Rear​

• Rear shocks replaced (both sides) — OEM
  
  Dec 19, 2022 — 160,764 mi (PNs on RO: 48531-69835 ×2).

Not in my history/reports:

• Lower ball joints (LBJs) — no replacement on file.
• Front lower control arms/bushings — no record.
• Front sway bar bushings & end links — no record.
• Outer/inner tie-rod ends — no standalone replacement documented (rack was replaced as an assembly in 2022).
• Rear control arms (upper/lower) & panhard bushings — no record.
• Rear sway bar bushings & links — no record.
• Front top mounts (strut mounts) — not listed separately; likely original.

Ask: I want to change the suspension arm assembly as preventative, and thought while its under the knife we can get other things done too. Would welcome the groups thoughts though.

 

[Irishpilot]

I recently baselined my hundy and I will do preventive suspension mx when the bushings and ball joints have visible issues and/or experiencing steering issues on the road. The bushings will dry rot, and the ball joints will start leaking long before they fail. You can also test the ball joints by lifting the wheel off the ground and checking the play.

If you don't have any symptoms or wear issues, I would just leave the suspension as-is. If you lift the truck, then that's a different story.

 

[Malleus]

I would definitely replace the three front differential bushings; the seem to be most prone to age related damage. IMHO, they make a considerable difference in operation, too.

The upper and lower suspension components shouldn't be replaced unless they are worn or damaged.

 

[calimba]

I would definitely replace the three front differential bushings; the seem to be most prone to age related damage. IMHO, they make a considerable difference in operation, too.

The upper and lower suspension components shouldn't be replaced unless they are worn or damaged.

Would you happen to have part numbers? thank you

 

[pwil393]

Would you happen to have part numbers? thank you

Partsouq is where you can quickly grab any PN. Love that place.

 

[Malleus]

I would definitely replace the three front differential bushings; the seem to be most prone to age related damage. IMHO, they make a considerable difference in operation, too.

The upper and lower suspension components shouldn't be replaced unless they are worn or damaged.

I have part numbers for the 1st gen, because that's what I replaced, but as @pwil393 said, it's best to check your VIN against the EPC, to make sure you have the part numbers you need. I don't know that

The bushings you need are on the Power Train/Chassis page, Panel 4103, first page (it'll be readily apparent which if the two pages you need; only one has an illustration of the differential).

Two of the bushings are only available installed in the support arms, listed as:
52380–60030, "Support Assy, Front Differential"
52380–60040, "Support Assy, Differential"
The third is in the "Cover, Front DIfferential Carrier Assy" shown as only available with the carrier (for the 1st gen, before 08-2000), but it is available separately:
41651–60010, "Cushion"

Again, I can only confirm these numbers for the 1st gen 100 series (1998-2002), but they appear to be listed for teh tird gen as well, so there isn't any reaosn to expect they aren't used through the 100 series manufactur range, but check to be sure.

 

[2001LC]

Start over. Start with a good inspection. Order what is needed. LCA, if LBJ & bushing bad, perhaps. Or if, other damage (bent or shock or link brackets bad) or just what top shelve LBJ. Make sure to R&R #2 bushing if R&R LCAs.

Wheel bearing, along with needle bearing & brass bushing. Are required to be service ever 30K miles. If properly maintained. Bearing9s), excepted life, is 250K miles. Just lubing, there're required minimum parts needed (non reusables)

FDS (AKA CV's) are a very common while in there. If they grade low during inspection. Replace diff side seal with new FDS. Nice touch is axle needle bearing and brass bush along with knuckles rear seal.

Refreshing stabilizer system, is very good idea. But again, if fails inspection. But look close and the washer (spacers), bolts, nuts & rubber needed. It's more than links and bushes.

Inner Tie rod (TRE), come with rack & pinion (R&P). We typically don't replaced, as a stand alone.
Outer TRE we replace if bad or boot tron. Otherwise do with R&P.

Factory Shock rarely need replacing. Unless leaking or bushing shot.

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