I used an electric impact, but I believe 120ftlbs or so.Anyone have the torque specs for the support arm bolts?
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I used an electric impact, but I believe 120ftlbs or so.Anyone have the torque specs for the support arm bolts?
Where is everyone sourcing the febest bushings? When I put in the info for my 2000lc, the febest website isn't showing me any offerings. I'm also not seeing them on amazon, which I prefer not to use anyway, but will in a pinch. What are my options to source these? Part store chains, internet?
I didn't see them when I was looking at the diagrams. All I saw was the OEM replacement arms. Is there a different way I need to be searching on Partsouq?PartSouq offers them as an alternative to OEM.
I didn't see them when I was looking at the diagrams. All I saw was the OEM replacement arms. Is there a different way I need to be searching on Partsouq?
Thanks, I can see that now after I placed my partsouq order last week. My fault for not waiting.Put in your VIN number it will bring up a menu for your specific model vehicle. Then search in powertrain/chassis and it will pull up your front diff. Click on the part you want to see and it will bring up OEM and alternate sources (if any
Febest: TAB334 for the upper stopper
Febest: TAB333 for the bushing.
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Thanks for the info. That website still doesn’t work when I enter my vehicle info.Automotive Aftermarket Parts Supplier | FEBEST Europe Distribution
The only official Febest automotive aftermarket supplier in Europe. The widest choice of rubber parts and other OEM compatible car parts.febestparts.com
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Finally after 1 month. Out with the thud in with the no-thud.
Started at 8am was done by 10:30am. Used a cold chisel and a 6lb sledgehammer to slowly pry it out. Took me about 1.5hrs to do it.
Now instead of using the ball joint press that I loaned from O’Reilley’s, I used my hydraulic floor jack to press/push UP the brand new oe cushion bushing on its spot until it snapped (but it still had about 4mm gap and wasn’t fully flushed in). I then further pressed it in the by tightening the bolt until it flushed right.
So your saying this fixed the clunk...100%?
I am aware of that, just curious what the person who posted those pictures experienced. In my experience all of this just helps reduce the clunk but isn't causing the problem at all, it's just softening the blow from the play in the diffs and / or transfer. My point being I am not sure if any of these repairs actually fix anything or just help band-aid.@Mike NXP - this is part of reducing it but most that do this report a reduction in the clunk, not an elimination of it.
For reference, I would say diff bushings reduced the clunk about 20%, Greasing slip yolks helped 20%, new CV's and flanges helped 50% and I still have 10% left which I believe is from drivetrain lash. I believe everyone will find they have their own "sum of component parts" percentages as they go through the work of getting rid of the clunk.
I am aware of that, just curious what the person who posted those pictures experienced. In my experience all of this just helps reduce the clunk but isn't causing the problem at all, it's just softening the blow from the play in the diffs and / or transfer. My point being I am not sure if any of these repairs actually fix anything or just help band-aid.
At this point I would say yes it’s 100% gone. Zero clunk and the transition from P to R to N to D and back is buttery smooth.So your saying this fixed the clunk...100%?
At this point I would say yes it’s 100% gone. Zero clunk and the transition from P to R to N to D and back is buttery smooth.
I used it for about 30 miles since so yes I would agree time will really tell if indeed the clunk has been fully resolved. I will just update this thread in a few months probably.Very interesting, like Alpine was saying most people just report this helping the problem. I also had the day after repair excitement as well but realized shortly after it didn't help much ( not to jinx you) Awesome to hear some people are solving the problem.
Mine’s still the same, no clunk nor thud. Have you tried putting your phone on the ground and point it at the differential bushings and record a video when you transition your AT shifter from P - N- R - D (at least 1 second interval before shifting) and back?My 100 caught the clunk! Those that had it resolved 100% or close to, how has that been holding up? Just curious. I am doing it regardless.
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Mine’s still the same, no clunk nor thud. Have you tried putting your phone on the ground and point it at the differential bushings and record a video when you transition your AT shifter from P - N- R - D (at least 1 second interval before shifting) and back?
At this point I would say yes it’s 100% gone. Zero clunk and the transition from P to R to N to D and back is buttery smooth.