front bumper build for flat towing (1 Viewer)

[archie73]

I'm getting ready to build a front bumper for my cruiser. I've got some 3 1/2' of 4" c channel and some 3"x 6" rectangle to make the frame brackets. Here's what it needs to accomplish:

1. Tie frame horns together
2. Hold Warn 8274
3. 2 recovery points
4. I'd like the recovery points to usable for a tow bar

I have a game plan for all the above items. I know I'll need a plate on the backside of the bumper for the winch. I think we have some scrap plate. My real question is would something like this be OK for the tow bar. It should be stout enough, but do I need it to be double shear? Anything else I'm not considering for the bumper? I'd like to keep it clean looking.

Relevent Cruiser Info:
Not locked(yet), 4" SUA, 35" BFG, FJ80 steering, stock axles, soft top

 

[shawnfj40]

Heres what I did and it works fine.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Many ways to skin this cat. So what do you want this to look like when you are done? Esthetically, channel is nor very attractive with the sharp outside edges. Almost any steel supply/fab shop can bend one from 1/4" plate that will fit correctly, 4" channel will require some type of spacer to fit snugly on the front of the frame.

That said, if still you have all the OEM bumper gussets then you'll have more than enough strength to pull your rig, provided you upgrade all the bolts to 3/8".

Using recovery points as mounting locations is easy. There are plenty of vendors that make pad eyes (shackle mounts) that will work when combined with the correct bolt an tow hitch design.

 

[archie73]

Many ways to skin this cat. So what do you want this to look like when you are done? Esthetically, channel is nor very attractive with the sharp outside edges. Almost any steel supply/fab shop can bend one from 1/4" plate that will fit correctly, 4" channel will require some type of spacer to fit snugly on the front of the frame.

My location is a bit limiting in terms of availability and price. I’m gonna try the c channel for now. I have it, so it won’t cost me anything. If I don’t like it, I’ll look into the plate.

The plate for the winch can incorporate the spacer for the frame.

Is frame width going to be good for the tow bar attachment points?

Thanx for the input, I’m still feeling my way through this stuff.

 

[bsilva132]

C Channel works just fine for what you are doing and is cheap. My tow bar attachments are double shear though. I just welded a D-ring on either side for recovery points.

 

[archie73]

C Channel works just fine for what you are doing and is cheap. My tow bar attachments are double shear though. I just welded a D-ring on either side for recovery points.

How would using two 1/2" D-Ring tabs be for each recovery point? This would increase weld area and provide double shear on tow bar. I would be leaving just enough space for the tow bar to slide between the two tabs. They are rated at 3400#s each. I could make an insert to take up the space when the tow bar isn't in place. This (in my mind) would tie them together and help with deflection.

 

[Living in the Past]

I've used a factory bumper with a couple of tabs welded on for well over thirty years. Towed vehicles all over the west coast with it. Used the bumper, tow bar and piece of 7/8" uni-strut with some 69-73 tail lights for recovery/pick up for years. When I bought my 65 FJ45LP-B towed it from Northern California to Phoenix with no issue. Just used it to tow my 70 FJ40 from Northern Arizona to Phoenix for a classic run last Sunday. Have a car hauler but easier some times to just flat tow.

 

[4Cruisers]

I installed tow bar attachments from Curt Manufacturing on my aftermarket Warn winch bumper on my '76 FJ40.

 

[shawnfj40]

So long as you use high strength, large fasteners, you will be fine.

 

[archie73]

The bumper build has begun! This my take a while. But I got the frame brackets cut and tacked to the C channel. Love the plasma at work! The brackets follow the contours of the inside of the channel, for maximum weld contact. And they are on the inside of the frame rails. This will allow me to strengthen the SR brackets by sandwiching the frame between the bumper and SR brackets.

I’ll bevel the ends similar to the rear in order to tie the look together.

These bumper builds (and every other need of the truck) are happening at the same time, so updates will be hit or miss. But for now I have a rear bumper to hold the taillights(yes I’ll recess them) and a front that’ll tie the frame horns together. I’m hoping to be in Moab by May 11.

 

[White Stripe]

The bumper build has begun! This my take a while. But I got the frame brackets cut and tacked to the C channel. Love the plasma at work! The brackets follow the contours of the inside of the channel, for maximum weld contact. And they are on the inside of the frame rails. This will allow me to strengthen the SR brackets by sandwiching the frame between the bumper and SR brackets. View attachment 1689540

I’ll bevel the ends similar to the rear in order to tie the look together.
View attachment 1689546
These bumper builds (and every other need of the truck) are happening at the same time, so updates will be hit or miss. But for now I have a rear bumper to hold the taillights(yes I’ll recess them) and a front that’ll tie the frame horns together. I’m hoping to be in Moab by May 11.

Have u seen the narva rear lights? They are led and kinda mimic factory lights. They make a narrow version that fits nice in compact bumpers. They are in post 11 here...
4x4 labs rear bumper

 

[archie73]

I have seen the Narva lights, they were a bit pricey for my budget. For the factory look, I’d need rounds. I went away from those to get a little better departure angle. I was t sure how I’d like these, but they’re growning on me. They’re cheap enough and readily available.

 

[Warloc]

Here’s what I did out of channel iron. I used a 5” wide (I think) and used the stock mounting holes by making some angled spacers as the inside of 3/8 thick channel has a draft angle. I flat towed many times with this setup but now trailer it for long distances to save wear and tear for the trail not highway.

 

[archie73]

@Warloc that’s basically what I have in mind. Ordered the recovery points and swing out hardware yesterday. Mostly from ruffstuff. I won’t get any of that on before Moab, but the winch may hapoen.

 

[archie73]

So the winch...
I had gotten this buy buying a 1970 f-250

It was only mounted to the bumper- no electrical connections or a controller. The PO said it worked and I figured for the price of the truck, I could get a free winch. I never got around to testing it and a sudden sale of the truck pushed off testing further...
I finally made it to HF to get a Badlands remote. When the stars aligned for this project to happen, I couldn’t get it to work. After testing with a jumper wire I figured it out that it was the remote. But I was out of time, I had to go get fitted for a crown (dental). While I was waiting for the Novocain to kick in, I surfed the web. Turn out this remote receiver requires a dedicated ground. A simple ground wire and I had a working winch. Happy days!!! I never new whether to trust the PO, but he did me right.
Now I need to make a winch plate for the bumper and drop it in. I’m thinking I want the winch bottom even with the bottom of the bumper. This will allow the most airflow for the SBC. Any other thoughts before I make up a winch plate?

 

[Warloc]

I bought my winch plate which wasn’t all that expensive but it doesn’t mount below the frame. On the other hand it does not seem to interfere with the airflow to my SBC either. I just finished a fresh 350 and my rig runs cool with just a 4 row late model 40 radiator.

 

[archie73]

My 350 runs a touch hot, so I’m just trying to keep it low. I probably would have bought the plate, but I had some steel. probably not as pretty, but I think it’ll do.

 

[Living in the Past]

Here is the setup I've used for over thirty years. Only thing I needed to do in that time was lengthen the light harness for my FJ45 pickup. As opposed to design built bumper I've used this on over a dozen cruisers. Required drilling a few different holes on the bottom when I towed a FJ25 from the Oregon coast to Phoenix. Longest trip was from the Seattle area to Phoenix. When I did that I didn't have a car hauler but even now would still use this set verses hauling empty trailer that far.
These were taken on Sunday.

 

[archie73]

That’s good testimonial on the tow bar. It fits my ideal of a cabover camper in the tundra and flat
towing the cruiser. Is there an ideal length on the tow bar? I’m sure there are a ton of opinions on this, but yours seems a bit longer than most.
The reason I’m using the recovery tabs(ruffstuff), is simply that I was planning on putting them in the bumper anyways.
On the rear lights, I was thinking of tying into the taillight wiring harness. This would mean one less thing to dig out when I want to tow it. Any reason not to?

 

[Living in the Past]

This was made from a early style U-Haul universal tow bar. I used one in 1975 when I towed my FJ40 from AZ to CA behind a U-Haul truck. Believe my neighbor these one from a auction. Borrow it a few times when it was still a universal setup. It modified to tow his fifties CJ. Welded tabs on a old bumper and borrowed for a while until he bought a car hauler to tow behind his motorhome. At that point I bought if from him. Not sure on the length but know I can make some pretty shape turns and still track.

When I only had one FJ40 I did hard wire a pigtail for the tail lights. I have a three pole relay to switch from the dash to the pigtail. Today would change to a system that unplugs the rear harness at the firewall and plug the pigtail in there.