Front brake pads sitting high on the rotor and a very hard to diagnose creaking from the front end.

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OK guys, few and far between am I not able to figure things out and this one has me at a loss. I spent most of my free time yesterday and today searching and reading the FSM, and after coming up with dead ends, it's time to make a post about what I have going on. I'll finish my preamble with expressing my disdain for "my truck makes a noise, what is it?" threads because they're almost impossible to diagnose over the internet but unfortunately, here I am. And so, I've made this as detailed and thorough as possible so you can get an idea of what I've done and what the truck is doing. It's a long read, so grab a beer or a bong or some holistically raised free range gluten free organic water or whatever floats your boat before we begin.

I recently bought a 40th Anniversary with 268k to be the replacement for my '95. About two days and about 100ish miles into ownership, the truck developed a clunk in the front left that corresponded with a thump felt in the drivers foot well down by the body mount. Initially, I thought it was a loose shock as my '95 did that when I first got it. However, the 40th also clunked upon application of the brakes and then began to creak at odd times. It sounds more like a creak you'd get from dry ball joints, or similar to the creaking brakes make when you just barely let off the brake enough to begin to creep forward. Most of the time, it'll creak when turning the steering wheel at any speed, with or without throttle or brake. Sometimes, it'd do it when hitting the gas from a stop. Rarely, it'd do it while weaving back and forth in my lane. The only consistent way to replicate the noise is to use the brakes; every time I step on the brake, it makes the creaking/ thump. It is not the clicking of a birf, or at least none that I've ever heard come from a birf or a CV joint in 30 years of turning wrenches. So, I went in to see what was up.

First off, the shocks, the suspension bushings, the wheel and trunnion bearings, the sway bar end links, the caliper bolts and the steering gear are all tight. I've checked them several times both with the axle supported on jackstands and with the frame on stands to take the weight of the truck off the front end. With the weight off the suspension, I turned the steering wheel slowly to listen for a dry tie rod end. I also had my girl friend do this with the truck on the wheels, but with the engine running, I couldn't hear anything. But like I said- the steering gear is tight. Long story short, everything in the front end outside of the axle is solid and the truck, other than the creak heard and thump felt, drives and brakes as it should.

However, I did find two things thus far...

The brake pads. As I said- the PO did the brakes relatively recently. He didn't mention this and I only discovered it when I went looking for the cause of the noise. Here's where it gets weird... The Bosch brake pads are overlapping the top of the rotor like they're not sitting down in the caliper far enough. I've seen this on sliding calipers, but never fixed calipers like what we have, where the pins going across the top of the pads dictate how deep they sit in the caliper. Thinking the pads might be the wrong pads, I bought some cheapie Autozone pads to see how they compared to the pads in the truck, and they're identical, and even sit in the caliper the same with about 1/8" of friction material above the edge of the rotor. Additionally, both the Bosch pads and the Autozone pads have some lateral play when they're inside the caliper- when the caliper squeezes the pads, the rotor will pull them slightly to one end of the caliper or the other, depending on which way the axle is turning. I'd say this movement is a little less than 1/16". Since the caliper is fixed in place and the pads are held in with pins, is there any possible way that an FJ80 rotor was installed instead of an FZJ80 rotor? I know the FJ80 rotor is smaller, but am not sure by how much or if it'd even be possible to install it on an FZJ80? And since it's been a long while since I did the brakes on my '95, is this lateral pad play inside the caliper the norm? I don't remember it in my '05. Oddly, the passenger side pads have the same play and overlap, but the creak/thump isn't coming from that side of the truck. I didn't get pictures of the pads, but here's a picture identical to how they're wearing.
brake pad.jpg


The knuckle. I intended to pull the knuckle apart this afternoon to check the birf and everything else in there, but weather closing in prevented me from getting very far. I was able to pull the top trunnion pin and look in to see almost no grease. After pumping in two 14 oz. tubes of grease, I pulled the drive flange real quick to see if the wheel bearings even had grease on them. They do, but I noticed the axle shaft moved around quite a bit inside the spindle. I know the inboard end is supported by the spindle bushing and the outer end is supported by the drive flange, but I was able to easily wiggle the end of the axle back and forth to make contact with the lip of the spindle. As with the brake pads, it's been a while since I've been in one of these axles, so I can't recall if this is normal or not.

My thoughts are that perhaps the birf is bad, the spindle bushing is bad, or that the rotor is incorrect. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get into the knuckle so until I get a chance, I'm hoping you guys can chime in on the brake pad issue at the very least, if not your thoughts and suggestions.
 
Post some measurements of your rotors, and give us pics of anything questionable, like the calipers.

I'm not sure what a trunnion pin is, maybe the cap? It's not what you would typically pull off to check grease levels, either way. There's a plug just for that, or you can pull the ABS sensor.

I wouldn't be concerned about the end of the birf having play when not supported by the drive flange, that's fairly normal.

When you get everything back together, you might find that you fixed your odd noise by getting grease to the spindle bushing. Don't know about the clunk, but at that mileage it could easily be worn control arm bushings. They are difficult to inspect when on the truck.
 
Looks like you have the smaller 11.25 fj80 brake rotor instead of the correct 13.19 Fzj80 rotor.
 
Spike, I'll have some time today to get in there for pics and measurements. By trunnion pin, I mean the cap. I've always called it that because it's the thing that goes inside the trunnion bearing. Kinda like how connecting rod journals are sometimes called crank pins. Anyway, that's just semantics; sorry for the confusion. Pulling the fill plug just gives you a nice view of the sode of the birf. Removing the top trunnion cap let me look down at the backside of the birf to see if there was any grease on it, and to get the tip of my grease gun behind the birf to get the grease back there. It was nearly dry, so I pumped almost an entire 14 oz. tube of grease back there with the rest and the 2nd tube around the birf by way of the square plug. I only drove it about a mile after I put it back together, but it didn't seem to change anything immediately.

I keep coming back to the brakes because after I posted this last night, I went back out and if I use the parking brake to stop the truck in my driveway in either forward or reverse, it won't make the sound. After I take measurements and pictures today, I'm going to remove the front driveshaft and the drive flanges to isolate the axle shafts and birfs to see if that changes anything. It'll make the noise in my driveway, so I won't have to drive anywhere with the wheel bearings exposed.

Madison- like I just said to Spike, I haven't measured the rotors, but if there's a 1.94" difference in diameters, then these are definitely not the FJ80 rotors. From memory, there's maybe 1/4" between the outside edge of the rotor and the caliper. But thank you for posting up the two sizes... that is quite helpful.
 
I have no idea what those pads came from but they don't look like any FZJ80 fronts pads I have ever seen.
For reference
FZJ80 Front Pads.JPG
 
I have no idea what those pads came from but they don't look like any FZJ80 fronts pads I have ever seen.
For reference
View attachment 1617937

those arnt the correct pads for the truck, they don't even look like Toyota pads. start with correct pads and go from there

He stated that the pic was not of his pads, just a random pic of a similar condition.

At this point I'd be questioning whether the calipers are correct. But the obvious suggestion is still the rotor diameter being off.

Are all the caliper bolts in place? Any scrapes on the inside of the wheels?
 
^Gotcha
 
He stated that the pic was not of his pads, just a random pic of a similar condition.

At this point I'd be questioning whether the calipers are correct. But the obvious suggestion is still the rotor diameter being off.

Are all the caliper bolts in place? Any scrapes on the inside of the wheels?

Incorrect calipers occurred to me, but a quick glance through the spokes at the calipers on my '95 eliminated that possibility. Nope, no rubbing on the inside of the wheel, and yep, all the bolts are in properly.
 
I have the same problem with brake pads overlapping the rotor. Couple months ago I noticed gouging on the passenger side rotor so I figured the pads were worn. I grabbed a set of pads to throw on until I had time to do the job right. Turns out the pads on the truck were still ok and the rotor wear was from a previous set of pads.

Anyway, when I looked at the pads on the truck they were overlapping the rotor by about an 1/8th inch. I went ahead and swapped pads and noticed the new ones would wear the same way. I assumed it was a cheap aftermarket rotor and the problem would get solved when I installed new Toyota rotors, which I haven't done yet.
 
Interesting you have the same issue. What brand rotors do you have, if you know? I asked the PO today and he said he used Autozone rotors.

I have Brembo OEM style rotors and Porterfield R4S pads on my '95, and they fit together as a rotor and pad should. That setup is only about $200 for the front axle and will last forever, so I may just go do that to this 40th Anniversary. As an aside, if you're going to do brakes, I *highly* recommend this setup. I've been using the Brembo blanks and R4S pads on every vehicle I've had for the past 17 years, and every time has been a marked improvement in braking performance, longevity and an elimination of brake dust.
 
Interesting you have the same issue. What brand rotors do you have, if you know? I asked the PO today and he said he used Autozone rotors.

I have Brembo OEM style rotors and Porterfield R4S pads on my '95, and they fit together as a rotor and pad should. That setup is only about $200 for the front axle and will last forever, so I may just go do that to this 40th Anniversary. As an aside, if you're going to do brakes, I *highly* recommend this setup. I've been using the Brembo blanks and R4S pads on every vehicle I've had for the past 17 years, and every time has been a marked improvement in braking performance, longevity and an elimination of brake dust.
Good to hear you have another truck to compare rotors with. Now you just have to figure out a way to measure the diameter. Or the circumference, that might be easier.
 
I had time to pull the front drive shaft and drive flanges to isolate the axle shafts and birfs, and it still does makes the sound. So, it's in the knuckle. I ended up leaving the wheels on when I took the flanges off, so I didn't get pictures or measure my rotors. I'm not convinced it's not a braking issue, but since the creak also happens when not applying the brakes, I'm leaning towards the trunnions being dry. When I pulled the right flange, I could rattle the right birf around in the spindle and hear metal on metal hitting quite clearly when I moved it in and out. I have Friday off, so I'll lift up her skirt and dig around in her guts to see just exactly WTF. And since the right side as dry as a popcorn fart, I'll be taking it apart as well to throw the lube at it.

I appreciate the discussion thus far. It's helped me kind of talk through it and think from different angles. I'll keep updating this with what I find.
 
You may have too different issues here. The brake pads overlapping and trunnion bearings (or whatever). I’d still measure the rotors to compare.
 
Interesting you have the same issue. What brand rotors do you have, if you know? I asked the PO today and he said he used Autozone rotors.

No idea what brand of rotors. My guess is the rotors are the problem, probably a bad lot from some manufacturer.
 
You may have too different issues here. The brake pads overlapping and trunnion bearings (or whatever). I’d still measure the rotors to compare.

You're most likely correct. I absolutely intend on measuring them and taking pictures as requested. We'll see on Friday!
 
The " overlap problem" of the pads not making full contact is common for 100 series pads and cheap, incorrect rotors. I'm thinking rotors
in this case.
 

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