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Front auto locker?
- Thread starter chicago
- Start date
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How about this:
Locker up front, run one front wheel engaged, the other free (3 wheel drive), then when really necessary, engage the other front wheel.
Now, will 1/2 of the front system handle the torque? I believe the locking hubs and shaft will have to be beefed.
An interesting idea, no?
Locker up front, run one front wheel engaged, the other free (3 wheel drive), then when really necessary, engage the other front wheel.
Now, will 1/2 of the front system handle the torque? I believe the locking hubs and shaft will have to be beefed.
An interesting idea, no?
bad idea
My $.005 is I would steer away from the auto lockers, some people have good luck with them but alot don't(myself included).
In my FJ40(SBC,SM465,36"s) I ended up pulling both lock-rights out, welding the rear and leaving the front open. much better combo for that rig.
In my FJ60 I dropped some coin for an ARB and Marlin's 27spline UM06's. I've still got stock inners and I'm pretty sure I won't have a problem. The thing I love about the ARB is I only use it when I need it(=to lazy to back up and try a different line). The 60 has a lot less motor so i kinda need the locker and when in the 40 I can just power my way out of it.
also you dont need the ARB compressor you just need some type of air supply(co2,cheap costco pump, etc...) and you can get a manual switch for the arb from a couple of different places, i.e. ARB Air Switch someone on mud was making thier own and selling them awhile back
ARB $700
Marlins UM06's 320
or Bobby's 27's 430
compressor 50-100
manual switch 37
or
lockright 300
Bobbys 30's 665
hydro 300
One of the guyz in the club is wheeling a 40 with NO POWER STEERING, stock axels and a lock rite up front...
He weight about 100lbs to boot.
HARD FU*CKING CORE!
Chicago
yea thats pretty tough but like i said it really isnt hard to turn at all with the Aussie auto locker up front. The only time i ever have any issues is when im completly bound up and een in 2wd its hard to turn then.
stock in 27 spline birf. but in you get the 30 spline with the inner axles they are stronger. then you just carry the stockers (if you wanted) as spares. its tough to break the longs.
I can say i will be doing the 30 splines because im not scared to drive it hard.
I think the prices you are stating here are not really realistic..
ARB $700
ARB install $300 (resetting up gears, drilling the housing lines Etc)
ARB compressor $100 (average it could easily be more)
ARB switch $ 37
Bobby's 27 $430
Hydro $300
Total = $1867
Lockright $300
Bobby's 27's $430
Hydro $300
Total $1030
Now there are things missing like gear oil and seals but you get the gist of it. Also, if you can do the setup yourself (aussie I know you can ARB is not as difinitive) it gets a lot cheaper.
IMHO, hydro steering is not a necessity. I did the con without hydro a time or two with a front locker. But it is really nice. And it is just as important for an ARB as it is for a auto locker. I did a writeup on porting your own box. It is not hard or complicated. Nor does it require any expensive tools.
I really like autolockers. They are cheap and simple.
If I were going to do a selectable in a dual purpose rig, I would put it in the rear..
Wheeling with one hub unlocked is a very poor idea.
Lots of stress on the locked side...
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- Thread starter
- #27
Actually the prices stated are still low. I looked it all up last night, and this is still the approximate price, but a bit more accurate...
ARB price is 825.00 (cruiser outfitters)
compressor 165.00
Install 300.00 (sounds right)
27 spline longs 595.00
Then theres the shipping...
Aussie 280.00
27 spline longs 595.00
ram assist 300.00
Ill probably get the longs and the aussie first, see how it is and then wait for the hydro.
The ARB price is just TOO FRICKIN STEEP. I with you all on the longs though. If for nothing else, the piece of mind will be worth it.
I donno if Ill be able to pull it off before the Rubicon trip though. Im thinking I might be considering this all a bit too late for that.
Then there is the 5.3 Vorte and NP 203 sitting in my garage that still needs a tranny, adapters and a harness...
Ive just gotta WORK more...
Crack has GOTTA be CHEAPER!
This addiction is just OUTTA CONTROL!!!!!!!!!!
Chicago
ARB price is 825.00 (cruiser outfitters)
compressor 165.00
Install 300.00 (sounds right)
27 spline longs 595.00
Then theres the shipping...
Aussie 280.00
27 spline longs 595.00
ram assist 300.00
Ill probably get the longs and the aussie first, see how it is and then wait for the hydro.
The ARB price is just TOO FRICKIN STEEP. I with you all on the longs though. If for nothing else, the piece of mind will be worth it.
I donno if Ill be able to pull it off before the Rubicon trip though. Im thinking I might be considering this all a bit too late for that.
Then there is the 5.3 Vorte and NP 203 sitting in my garage that still needs a tranny, adapters and a harness...
Ive just gotta WORK more...
Crack has GOTTA be CHEAPER!
This addiction is just OUTTA CONTROL!!!!!!!!!!
Chicago
hydro can be done slowly.
The $300 would be for the ram and a ported box. You can always do your own..
The ram is ~ $100
If you are gonna pony up for bobby's alloy inners then just go 30 spline.. If not, get the $430 stock replacement birfs and use your stock inners (you will probably not break them)
Crack is for weenies
The $300 would be for the ram and a ported box. You can always do your own..
The ram is ~ $100
If you are gonna pony up for bobby's alloy inners then just go 30 spline.. If not, get the $430 stock replacement birfs and use your stock inners (you will probably not break them)
Crack is for weenies
- Thread starter
- #29
hydro can be done slowly.
The $300 would be for the ram and a ported box. You can always do your own..
The ram is ~ $100
If you are gonna pony up for bobby's alloy inners then just go 30 spline.. If not, get the $430 stock replacement birfs and use your stock inners (you will probably not break them)
Crack is for weenies
Yeah...
I dont hear too often about the inner axels breaking.
What company is selling the ram for 100?
I saw trail gear's...what are the other mfr's for those?
Chicago
Quote from freds40's thread on Marlin's board.
"I did all my shopping @ surpluscenter.com. They had everything on the shelfand I got it in a matter of days. The ram I got is a Columbus 1.5x6x.75 Dual action cylinder(Dual action reffers to being aple to preassurize in either direction rather than just bleeding off) and was $78.50.PN 9-4410-06. I used 2 premade 1/4 x 36" single wire hydraulic lines that were $7.35 each. PN 916-1436. 2- 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT bushings because the ram has 3/8 ports and that is too much volume and would make this system too sluggish so you choke it down to 1/4 ASAP. These were $.45 each. PN 9-1938. And I used 4- 1/4" male/female 90 degree fitings. PN 9-1922. These were $1.95 each. You have to make sure to ask for hydraulic fittings otherwise you might get hose regular hose fittings and they won't seat and seal properly."
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4699.0#quickreply
I'm sure prices have changes a little but they're close.
"I did all my shopping @ surpluscenter.com. They had everything on the shelfand I got it in a matter of days. The ram I got is a Columbus 1.5x6x.75 Dual action cylinder(Dual action reffers to being aple to preassurize in either direction rather than just bleeding off) and was $78.50.PN 9-4410-06. I used 2 premade 1/4 x 36" single wire hydraulic lines that were $7.35 each. PN 916-1436. 2- 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT bushings because the ram has 3/8 ports and that is too much volume and would make this system too sluggish so you choke it down to 1/4 ASAP. These were $.45 each. PN 9-1938. And I used 4- 1/4" male/female 90 degree fitings. PN 9-1922. These were $1.95 each. You have to make sure to ask for hydraulic fittings otherwise you might get hose regular hose fittings and they won't seat and seal properly."
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4699.0#quickreply
I'm sure prices have changes a little but they're close.
hydro can be done slowly.
The $300 would be for the ram and a ported box. You can always do your own..
The ram is ~ $100
If you are gonna pony up for bobby's alloy inners then just go 30 spline.. If not, get the $430 stock replacement birfs and use your stock inners (you will probably not break them)
Crack is for weenies
Sort of a hyjack but in fitting the 30 spline inner axel longs does the carrier in the differential need to be changed or is it still stock dimensions. Thanks
Nope....slap them puppy's in
- Thread starter
- #35
Humpf....
I checked with the usual suspects here in the vendor section, and they were all around the pirce that I had posted earlier in the thread.
Thats a pretty good deal.
Thanks. Im sure that will be helpful for others here too.
Chicago
it does not truely ever lock up espically when you have a tire off teh ground a limited slip or also known as a posi unit will still allow it to spin the tire in the air. also the clutches can wear out over time or after heavy abuse.
a locker when engauged is exactly that fully locked meaning bothi tires spin the exact same speed no matter what. and when off camber crawling around on rocks, hill climbes ect. it is much more efficient. meaning you will go further easier and probally faster.
it really is more of a pref thing tho. I want the most traction possible so i chose lockers front and rear, I have a detroit out back and an aussie up front and love it.
- Thread starter
- #37
no dought! I can say i will be having to do somthing like that. its to cheap not to try.
The UN-limited slips I've seen require you to work the brake to transfer power. They just seem to require a lot of extra work on the part of the driver for mediocre results at best.
you could just run two line locks on the front one for each wheel 
