Front and full-float Rear wheel bearings - are they the same? (1 Viewer)

[Harry]

Hi,

Mine is a '95 HZJ80 (Australian). Rear axle is full-float with discs.

I was all set to do my rear wheel bearings on Tuesday (Anzac day holiday here), but got worried that I've been supplied front wheel kits instead of rear. Any one able to offer some advice before I start trying to force in a wrong-size bearing race?

I bought two kits from a local parts supplier. When I opened the kits, there were front wheel parts, including the weird shaped drive-plate gaskets, and the 5-tab lock washer. The bearings were Koyo, and had the same part numbers as the front wheel bearings I installed a couple of years ago (JLM104948/10, LM102949/10). Also there was no small axle seal - Just the large inner wheel seal. I spent some looking, and found this thread that says the rear inner wheel seal has a flange. The one in my kit has no flange. I was pretty sure they had sold me a front wheel kit by mistake.

Here's a pic of the kit I was supplied.
IMG_20170426_235039773.jpg

So, went back to the supplier, and they swore that the kit works for front and rear wheels, and sold me a pair of the small axle seals - told me you can replace the bearings without replacing the axle seal, which is why no seals in the kit.

So, I'm sure the bearings are the same as the front. The wheel seal is the same as the front, and has no flange. Will this work Ok on my rears or should I be looking for a better educated supplier?

 

[cruiserdan]

Rear Full-float wheel bearings are the same as the front axle. The seals and adjusting nuts are different. You could probably use the wheel bearing seals if you had to but the correct seals better manage the inevitable intrusion of gear oil. The inner axle shaft seals should also be replaced, 90310-35001.

The correct rear wheel bearing seal is 90311-62002.

 

[cruiserdan]

Footnote.

The correct rear seal has a lip that is raised above the metal ring on one side of the seal. Front seals do not have that raised lip. The seal in the linked photo appears to have a raised lip.

 

[tominboise]

Cdan is the man!!!

 

[Tools R Us]

Rear Full-float wheel bearings are the same as the front axle. The seals and adjusting nuts are different. You could probably use the wheel bearing seals if you had to but the correct seals better manage the inevitable intrusion of gear oil. The inner axle shaft seals should also be replaced, 90310-35001.

The correct rear wheel bearing seal is 90311-62002.

We have given up on the inner seal, almost all of them we have seen leaked and the bearings were running in gear oil. Don't see this as a problem, its better lube than grease. With the seal there, it doesn't flush back and forth with the axle lube and the hub level runs higher than ideal. Without the seal, it fills to the correct level, with each turn, axle angle/flex, the fluid flushes in/out, replenishing/refreshing it.

This is how most other full float axles are done. Reduces maintenance to almost nothing, preload check and outer seal replacement if/when it ever leaks, no repack needed. Works great, so we just leave the inner seal out.

 

[cruiserdan]

That's the way my Dana 70 is in my Dodge truck. No inner shaft seal and the bearings run in gear oil. I'm not sure why Toyota chose to keep then separated.

Maybe one of their typical belt-and-suspenders approachs to reduce the chance for gear oil to contaminate the rear brakes?

 

[Tools R Us]

That's the way my Dana 70 is in my Dodge truck. No inner shaft seal and the bearings run in gear oil. I'm not sure why Toyota chose to keep then separated.

Maybe one of their typical belt-and-suspenders approachs to reduce the chance for gear oil to contaminate the rear brakes?

Agree on the maybe? I would say half of them we have done, were from gear oil on the brakes, both seals finally failing, likely most of those were factory, had never been apart. Know of a bunch of them running without the inner seal, mine has been that way for ~ a decade, no issues.

 

[Harry]

Thanks folks for your help.

Cruiserdan. Really appreciate getting help from someone who knows this stuff backwards. I know what I'm doing this weekend.

ToolsRus - I did end up buying new inner axle seals as well, so I'm sticking with the Toyota belt-and-suspenders design for now

 

[cc93cruiser]

We have given up on the inner seal, almost all of them we have seen leaked and the bearings were running in gear oil. Don't see this as a problem, its better lube than grease. With the seal there, it doesn't flush back and forth with the axle lube and the hub level runs higher than ideal. Without the seal, it fills to the correct level, with each turn, axle angle/flex, the fluid flushes in/out, replenishing/refreshing it.

This is how most other full float axles are done. Reduces maintenance to almost nothing, preload check and outer seal replacement if/when it ever leaks, no repack needed. Works great, so we just leave the inner seal out.

Wait, your talking bout the rear axle not running a inner seal or front?

 

[Tools R Us]

Wait, your talking bout the rear axle not running a inner seal or front?

Rear, the front wouldn't work so well!

 

[cc93cruiser]

Yea thought so, ha..