fresh desmog, no start. DIAG

[masonbarnard]

i wasnt sure about the vacuum switch so i just kept it on. so i can just remove and cap it?

**I still don't understand what the benefit is to an keeping the computer and switch, rather then grounding it. Will i backfire without it?

* where is the actual emission computer mounted?

the voltage regulator is an aftermarket one from mexico mounted next to the charcoal canister, going to replace alternator at some point but it works fine for now. it idles at 12volts, 14 while driving. the charge light is on intermittently, i think the light might actually be unrelated.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The benefit to the computer & vac switch is it enables coasting decel fuel cut. Without it, the coasting engine sucks hard on the carb idle slot, washing the cylinders with gas (bad for rings) and pissing unburned gas out the tailpipe (bad for MPG and environment).

 

[masonbarnard]

hmm i think ill wait till i test drive it then decide if i want to hook it back up, i did it simply cause the wiring was old and exposed.

how can i test if the vacuum switch works?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Test procedure is in the emissions FSM.

 

[masonbarnard]

What Goes here

 

[4Cruisers]

Nothing - if you look at that area from the other side you'll see it's like a flapper valve. Not sure of its function - never bothered to look.

 

[Output Shaft]

That opening at one time had a little rubber one way flapper valve which is now gone.
As far as I can guess it's a drain for a liquid that should never be in there in the first place.

 

[masonbarnard]

ok im back, I reinstalled everything last night.
I replaced the bsvc on the thermostat housing, and the passenger side vcv. the vaccum was initially 19. now its back at 15-16. i think tuning and timing is still the problem.

here are my problems.

1) the carb wont idle less then 900, even with the idle screw fully out.
2) I broke the fuel cut solenoid wire at the base of the solenoid. It still will idle on its own, but the ics does not work (no clicking anymore) I plan on replacing, but how is the carb able to idle at 1000, even with the ics disconnected and the carb screw out. I plan on replacing with a aftermarket one, going to order today. are they any good?
3) still waiting for the timing light to come in the mail.
4) with the car running I screwed the idle mixture screw back in, and it didn't cut out after 30 seconds. then screwed back out.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Impressive. I've yet to go that far w/ the IM screw. All the way out and it ran. I'm fighting w/ idle issues too... hoping it really isn't my intake (as mentioned below).
I picked up a new ICS from Cruiser Corps 549-208 cool cruisers or cruiser solutions one or the other. It was $14.45 the end of November '16. It works but I made a jumper wire so it grounded to the carb body. And I have yet to unplug the emissions computer as Ive read it can affect mpg and the smoothness of rpms I believe.
I'm staring at a hairline crack in my intake... waiting for a timing light and a compression gauge too before going full tilt and taking the intake off to get it welded and machined.

 

[gregnash]

ok im back, I reinstalled everything last night.
I replaced the bsvc on the thermostat housing, and the passenger side vcv. the vaccum was initially 19. now its back at 15-16. i think tuning and timing is still the problem.

here are my problems.

1) the carb wont idle less then 900, even with the idle screw fully out.
2) I broke the fuel cut solenoid wire at the base of the solenoid. It still will idle on its own, but the ics does not work (no clicking anymore) I plan on replacing, but how is the carb able to idle at 1000, even with the ics disconnected and the carb screw out. I plan on replacing with a aftermarket one, going to order today. are they any good?
3) still waiting for the timing light to come in the mail.
4) with the car running I screwed the idle mixture screw back in, and it didn't cut out after 30 seconds. then screwed back out.

Impressive. I've yet to go that far w/ the IM screw. All the way out and it ran. I'm fighting w/ idle issues too... hoping it really isn't my intake (as mentioned below).
I picked up a new ICS from cool cruisers or cruiser solutions one or the other. It was under $10. It works but I made a jumper wire so it grounded to the carb body. And I have yet to unplug the emissions computer as Ive read it can affect mpg and the smoothness of rpms I believe.
I'm staring at a hairline crack in my intake... waiting for a timing light and a compression gauge too before going full tilt and taking the intake off to get it welded and machined.

Weird that your ICS is still somehow functioning. Only thing I can think of is that it is stuck in the open position allowing fuel to come into the circuit. Otherwise you would need the choke pulled. I did the almost exact same thing when I rebuilt my top end the beginning of last year and my ICS was dead. Only place I could find them (should have asked Onur) was at CCOT. Talk with Onur as I believe it may still be available but if not the CCOT one is like $15 and has worked fine for me since.

I have been fighting idle issues since then, with the truck idling too high. At one point I COULD get the idle to drop by using my toes to pull on the gas pedal. This proved to be that my idle speed mixture was jacked up which I was able to somewhat fix. From there you will need lots of little tuning here and there to get everything dialed in, use your timing light and a vacuum gauge to do this.

Ultimately my carb is going to end up being a parts carb as my secondary slow cut valve (the little guy right above the EGR pipe that is brass) is leaking, my secondary valve/diaphragm doesn't work and I still have issues with getting the truck to reliably idle below 1k. My idle issue is hit and miss as she can suddenly decide to idle high just because at a stop light and then at the next and the rest of the drive she will be fine right about 700rpm. I have done the green wire mod on mine but still have my Emission computer and vac switch installed. I need to retest the computer because I think I may have prematurely done the green wire mod.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@gregnash you can pull that secondary diaphragm and replace the spring. Have you tried that yet? Also have you recurved your diz? I have done lots of reading this AM on recurve whys; a bunch back from '08 and '10. I mostly understand. Some of the physics of how all of these components work together boggles me. I really wish there was such a thing as a see through engine (you know like Wonder Woman's jet) so I could seriously SEE how they all work together. I learn best (and understand) by seeing so if I can visualise them in action it all makes so much more sense.

 

[gregnash]

@gregnash you can pull that secondary diaphragm and replace the spring. Have you tried that yet? Also have you recurved your diz? I have done lots of reading this AM on recurve whys; a bunch back from '08 and '10. I mostly understand. Some of the physics of how all of these components work together boggles me. I really wish there was such a thing as a see through engine (you know like Wonder Woman's jet) so I could seriously SEE how they all work together. I learn best (and understand) by seeing so if I can visualise them in action it all makes so much more sense.

Actually I just picked up the spring kit last weekend just never got around to replacing that spring. Didn't really have time to take the carb off and fiddle with it and didn't try to see if I could remove the secondary diaphragm while the carb was still on the truck (looks like I may be able too). Plus doesn't help it has been pissing rain since Sunday afternoon, makes things a lot more difficult when trying to get things done. However, that is on the agenda. If it stops raining then I will take a stab at reconnecting the Emissions computer and fiddling to see if I can get the secondary apart while the rest of carb is still on the truck.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You can get it off w/o pulling the carb. It attached by two screws I believe. Look close. Dave @roadstr6 can verify as he's the guy on that mod.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yes raining cold drizzle snits here too. Winters in CT stink.

 

[masonbarnard]

if i could go back in time i would of gotten a weber lol

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

if i could go back in time i would of gotten a weber lol

No way man. Read recurve threads back to '08. Webers are inferior to the aisin carb.

 

[masonbarnard]

No way man. Read recurve threads back to '08. Webers are inferior to the aisin carb.

i had a Pos fj60 a couple years ago that ran like a champ using one. the simplicity of it is the only appeal right now, i know that supposedly these OEM ones are the best when done right, and i did get it done right, i just fxxxed with it to much since i didn't know they come tuned and that wouldn't of happened with a weber.

why was my vacuum at 19, now at 14 again. Theres only frustration because I'm so close. Ill report back when i get a new ICS, timing light, and take a little more time with the tuning.

right now,
the car stinks of gas bad.
tuning is way off.
vacuum is way low
timing must be off

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You and I are in the same space.

 

[FJ40Jim]

When you say it won't idle below 1000, does that mean that when the idle speed screw is backed out:
1. the idle speed just stays at 1000, or
2. the engine idles down and dies?

On the ICS, do not install a chinesium ICS from CCOT, they aren't made right.
Since it is sorta idling without power to ICS, remove ICS, see if the end is already snipped off the ICS. If not, then hack end off ICS and reinstall for troubleshooting purposes.

Also, there's little point in troubleshooting the fuel & vacuum issues when the timing is still not set correctly.
Here's a good quality made in US timing light for ~$20:
vintage sun pro timing light with power cord pn # cp7515 | eBay

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

When you say it won't idle below 1000, does that mean that when the idle speed screw is backed out:
1. the idle speed just stays at 1000, or
2. the engine idles down and dies?

On the ICS, do not install a chinesium ICS from CCOT, they aren't made right.
Since it is sorta idling without power to ICS, remove ICS, see if the end is already snipped off the ICS. If not, then hack end off ICS and reinstall for troubleshooting purposes.

Also, there's little point in troubleshooting the fuel & vacuum issues when the timing is still not set correctly.
Here's a good quality made in US timing light for ~$20:
vintage sun pro timing light with power cord pn # cp7515 | eBay

I looked back at my receipts and found that I bought it from Cruiser Corps. Are they "right" from them? And I hae to ask, what is the "little point in troubleshooting?" Or do you simply mean the pointer in the sight window on the flywheel?