fresh desmog, no start. DIAG

[masonbarnard]

The ac screw is not touching the linkage, same as the fast idle. I don't have AC, and it starts right up with no choke. It's there, just not used used.

Fuel level is half way in sight glass.

* the vacuum line from the carb insulator plate to the VCV is pretty loud. But I don't think it's Leaking

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The ac screw is not touching the linkage, same as the fast idle. I don't have AC, and it starts right up with no choke. It's there, just not used used.

Fuel level is half way in sight glass.

* the vacuum line from the carb insulator plate to the VCV is pretty loud. But I don't think it's Leaking

Don't 'think' it's leaking? Have you tested that vcv?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The ac screw is not touching the linkage, same as the fast idle. I don't have AC, and it starts right up with no choke. It's there, just not used used.

Fuel level is half way in sight glass.

* the vacuum line from the carb insulator plate to the VCV is pretty loud. But I don't think it's Leaking

Also do yourself a favor and check that pipe. The one from the carb insulator to the pcv on the passenger side of the block. I've pulled my manifolds and tonight while I was cleaning the intake area I took that crimped egr pipe off plus the hard pipe that connect rubber to the pcv. It was totally clogged. Just for who haas check it and clear your mind that it's not plugged. I'm sure in my case it's partly why my intake cracked as I was getting wicked vapor lock plus my carb fan doesn't work... but could that affect idle too?

 

[masonbarnard]

Carb cooler fan doesn't work for me, I don't have the temp thingy on the manifold. I'll figure that out once more relevant kinks are out.

The carb insulator is OEM and brand new, gaskets are new. all hoses are new. Basically I can hear / feel the strong vacuum from the insulator plate hose. I think it's normal. I got a spare vcv I'll try.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Carb cooler fan doesn't work for me, I don't have the thermostat thingy. I'll figure that out once more kinks are out.

The carb insulator is OEM and brand new, gaskets are new. all hoses are new. Basically I can hear / feel the strong vacuum from the insulator plate hose. I think it's normal. I got a spare vcv I'll try.

Have you tried grounding the fan wire to the frame?
And I'm talking this pipe that is below and to the right side of the pipe to hose to vcv that your talking about. The pix of mine is flipped down away from the intake and the yellow circles hard pipe points to the right (firewall) and has a rubber hose attached to it over the valve cover to the positive crankcase valve on the passenger side of the block.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I added another pix w/ that one on my thread showing anupclose of how full of crud that pipe is. After seeing mine I tend to wonder if others might be in the same situation.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The PCV pipe may be clogged, but it has no negative effect on idle quality.

It's been established that the 2 'wrong' screws are not holding the idle open.
Next, do as OS suggested a few posts back and pop the pushrod off the carb throttle arm and see if idle speed screw is working then. There's a chance that something in the linkage could be holding up the pedal & linkage, which could hold the carb off idle stop.

If that doesn't result in a fix, then it's time for some hi-res pics of the carb, hose routing, engine bay, etc...

 

[masonbarnard]

the idle screw works, but only when its cold and initially started. once its warmed up the idle will raise to 1000-1100. It still runs well when it does idle that high.

example: Ill start the car, and it will idle as 700 happily. the idle will raise after driving around. so ill try to drop the idle by backing the idle speed screw out. nothing happen it has no effect, and the car will still idle even if its not seated on the plate. When the car is cold and initially started the idle screw works. i noticed because it wouldn't idle one morning, because the screw was still backed out from the night before when the idle wouldnt drop.

ill post pics tomorrow, busy today.

 

[gregnash]

Timing and fuel mix screw issue then @FJ40Jim?

 

[FJ40Jim]

If the warm engine is idling at 1000rpm, then too much air is sneaking through the carb, & picking up fuel in the process. IOW, it can't be a vacuum leak, which allows in more air, but no fuel. Something is holding the throttle open slightly.

 

[gregnash]

If the warm engine is idling at 1000rpm, then too much air is sneaking through the carb, & picking up fuel in the process. IOW, it can't be a vacuum leak, which allows in more air, but no fuel. Something is holding the throttle open slightly.

Could the accelerator pump be sticking? I know that with most of the carb rebuild kits a pump comes that has a rubber/plastic bootie around it vs. the OEM leather one. In that case can not properly lubing the pump per the FSM directions (think it says to soak for 30 mins in 80w oil) cause the pump to inadvertently stick to the walls leaving the passage open for more fuel and air?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, a sticky AP could prevent the throttle from moving easily. But this carb has a fresh leather pump cup that was soaked in synth oil for a day before installing, so it's not the problem.

 

[mwebfj60]

Have you tried taking this vacuum hose off the inlet below the carb and capping the inlet and also pulling the vacuum line off the VCV (the one coming from the BVSV) and capping it? There are only a couple of things that change from cold running to warmed up running on a desmogged 2F. 1)The BVSV passes vacuum to this VCV allowing air flow. 2)The Hot Air Intake system HIC valve opens and vacuum is no longer applied to the HAI dighragm allowing air to flow through the air intake hose into the air cleaner.
I agree with others..some Hi-Res pics of carb linkage and other angles around the engine bay would be helpful.
You had mentioned backfires and other related issues early on in the thread. This theory goes out to Jim or others...what about the power piston getting stuck because of this and with the added air from vacuum leaks along with the over rich mixture of a stuck power valve causing a high idle?

 

[masonbarnard]

The inlet on the insulate below the carb is new, I tried explaining above A few that it's pretty loud. The hose has a very strong vacuum Inside. I thought it was all normal.

What would be the purpose of the vcv if I capped capped both those ports. And if I cap both them would that mean the vcv is bad?

The original problems are long solved. Not running was due to the distributor. At this point, if I didn't have a vacuum gauge I would think it was perfect aside from

1) high idle once warmed up.

2) Hard to idle when I turn the car back on. (Drive 10 minutes, vacuum will be 18. Turn off for 10 minutes, starts right up, but won't idle at first then once it's does it's at like 1300rpms. vacuum will become 13-15 and not raise.


Maybe I should of created new thread for the new problems.

I'll get close and personal with it tonight and take pics

 

[mwebfj60]

My suggestion was for the 'new' problem of high idle when warm. It is a quick and easy isolation of a complete subsystem.

 

[gregnash]

Here's a question... once the truck has warmed up can you pull BACK on the gas pedal (e.g. put your toe behind it and pull towards you) and have it lower the idle?

 

[masonbarnard]

That was the first thing I tried. That use to be an issue, not anymore.

I'm gonna cap off vcv like mwebfj60 suggested. But do I leave the other two vsv lines on? And what about the other 2nd line from the bsvs? Should I cap it entirely because The bsvs is oem and brand new

I don't have much more to say until I look at it after work. THANKS for all the suggestions

 

[mwebfj60]

I lean towards what Jim said with the throttle bore open a bit causing the issue. If you try what I suggested, just plug the vacuum line coming to the vcv from the bvsv and plug the inlet below the carb. I would leave the lines on the bvsv as they are hard to get off and tend to break the port on the bvsv.

 

[doug720]

As an test, why not disconnect the the throttle linkage from the carb to see if you may still have some problem that is holding the throttle open? I know it's odd that it happens warm, but who knows? You did mention you had throttle linkage issues in the past.

I would guess it's likely something dumb causing it? But no matter, you have some of the best 2f carb guys around trying to help sort this out, so it will be solved.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Someone once mentioned shortening the length of the vertical rod (it screws tighter or looser) that tightens the linkage that connects the pedal through the firewall too.