fresh desmog, no start. DIAG

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

This is off topic, but I just bought 60 and it was desmogged. Well it just so happens that I live in CA and need to get it smogged. Any chance you want to sell all of the smog equipment that you took off?

Thanks and good looking 60
 
I took the valve cover off and verified the distributor is installed correctly, here's a video. I kept spinning the engine and making sure it would point at #4.
 
@masonbarnard i can so feel your frustration. I'm feeling similar w/ my 60 too.
But that oil is friggen disconcerting! I'd wager a guess but I hate to say something way too wrong. Did you put a new valve cover gasket on or an exhaust manifold gasket? Do you have a vacuum gauge? It won't go over 500rpms when you give it gas... is it smoking while you do that? @Output Shaft, @CaptClose, @orangefj45, @landcrusher909, @LAMBCRUSHER, any words here for this guy?
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
@masonbarnard i can so feel your frustration. I'm feeling similar w/ my 60 too.
But that oil is friggen disconcerting! I'd wager a guess but I hate to say something way too wrong. Did you put a new valve cover gasket on or an exhaust manifold gasket? Do you have a vacuum gauge? It won't go over 500rpms when you give it gas... is it smoking while you do that? @Output Shaft, @CaptClose, @orangefj45, @landcrusher909, @LAMBCRUSHER, any words here for this guy?
Click to expand...

I have a vacuum gauge hooked up to the gas filter on the manifold and it's going into the cabin. While it was trying to start it didn't have a reading I figured the filter is clogged or something.

It was smoking while starting, figured air fuel is way off and it hasn't started for over 4 months.

I don't understand how anything drastic could of happened since I didn't do anything drastic. The biggest part of the job seems to be the dizzy. i didn't remove the manifolds at all. But I think I'm going to now.
 
Last edited:
where the gurus at? please check all videos posted I'm very stressed. could the head gasket be gone? i replaced all the spark plugs, and two of the plugs had a light amount of oil on them. but the oil seemed burnt. figured it was a bad pcv which was replaced during this mess. when i removed the valve cover there was no sign of coolant mixing with the oil.

Prior to this it would be low on coolant all the time, but i thought it was from the multiple leaking lines i had. Thats pretty much the biggest job I'm willing to do on my own, don't have money for a rebuild if something is very wrong. It doesn't make sense because there was never oil like that anywhere prior to doing any of this.

I have zero history of the car, but supposedly the engine has been rebuilt, the paint is fresh, and looks brand completely restored and is painted. basically i believe its been rebuilt based on how clean everything else is. its from arizona or new mexico bought it from texas, zero rust. very very good condition

is there anyway to 100% make sure its only the head gasket. i don't want to do that job only to find out its more then that.

HEEEELLPPPPPPP
 
Last edited:
masonbarnard said:
where the gurus at? please check all videos posted I'm very stressed. could the head gasket be gone? i replaced all the spark plugs, and two of the plugs had a light amount of oil on them. but the oil seemed burnt. figured it was a bad pcv which was replaced during this mess. when i removed the valve cover there was no sign of coolant mixing with the oil.

Prior to this it would be low on coolant all the time, but i thought it was from the multiple leaking lines i had. Thats pretty much the biggest job I'm willing to do on my own, don't have money for a rebuild if something is very wrong. It doesn't make sense because there was never oil like that anywhere prior to doing any of this.

I have zero history of the car, but supposedly the engine has been rebuilt, the paint is fresh, and looks brand completely restored and is painted. basically i believe its been rebuilt based on how clean everything else is. its from arizona or new mexico bought it from texas, zero rust. very very good condition

is there anyway to 100% make sure its only the head gasket. i don't want to do that job only to find out its more then that.

HEEEELLPPPPPPP
Click to expand...
Have you done an oil change? At least that way you can see the condition of the oil and if its a mix or not. You'll know cuz it will look like a coffee milkshake. Other than that hopefully someone will speak up today.
 
first off, do not take anything apart that you haven't messed with yet unless you have reason to believe that the manifold gasket is shot...
 
gas coming out of the manifold or pipe says too much fuel in the manifold...where is the gas in the sight glass when sitting, car off? do a compression test. other than a mal-adjusted carb and a vacuum leak, blowby is about the only reason for liquid in the manifold...you might call Jim and cop to turning his screws.....
 
and lastly, have you got good spark on all 6 plugs?
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
Have you done an oil change? At least that way you can see the condition of the oil and if its a mix or not. You'll know cuz it will look like a coffee milkshake. Other than that hopefully someone will speak up today.
Click to expand...

I did an oil change 100 miles before the air pump seized. Oil looks normal and I still have the oil in a container.

LAMBCRUSHER said:
gas coming out of the manifold or pipe says too much fuel in the manifold...where is the gas in the sight glass when sitting, car off? do a compression test. other than a mal-adjusted carb and a vacuum leak, blowby is about the only reason for liquid in the manifold...you might call Jim and cop to turning his screws.....
Click to expand...

The sight glass has shown the fuel at half way mark. The only carb screws I messed with were this mixture and idle, both of which have been returned to the given spec above.

I have a rediculous theory of the car attempting to be started around 15 times caused a built of unburned gas. Or being so rich that it doesn't burn all the gas? Or two cylinders not getting spark and building up gas?

I want to take off the manifolds off to see if the exhaust ports are all clean or what. Cause you can't see much with them on and I brake cleaned everything after.

* the video you can see a piece of the carb leaking... what is that?
 
Last edited:
Ok time to step back for a second and take a deep breath, its gonna all be alright.

First things first - you said that all settings have been adjusted back to spec for the carb. Go through AGAIN and ensure that nothing is messed up. Also, did you rebuild the carb? If so then it may be worth while to buy another kit and run through it again.

Second - ensure that ICS (Fuel Cut Solenoid on the carb) is functioning properly, lots of posts about it. If in doubt, take it off and test it.

Third - ensure that you have all your timing marks set properly. Did you remove the dizzy? If so, it may be worth while to take out and reset it again to ensure it is not a tooth or two off.

Fourth - Since you desmogged, go through EVERY vacuum line a couple times to ensure that everything is linked up to the proper connections. Post a few shots on here from all sides and tag @FJ40Jim or @Output Shaft to see if they happen to notice something amiss.

Fifth - if the above don't seem to remedy things then it is time to rent a compression tester to see if anything weird is going on.
 
Ok just saw your other posts on the first page, thought I had read everything....

The leaking that you are seeing is coming from the carb. That secondary fuel cut valve (little brass one right above the EGR tube) is notorious for leaking. There is a post on it linked in my build thread on taking the valve off and tapping with a large bolt as it is not necessarily needed if you get the right size bolt. I would talk with Jim to see what his suggestions are with regards to all this stuff as since both items are desmogged/recurved by him they should be working properly.

This is what I am referring too.. Secondary Slow Cut Valve!!
Troubleshooting Secondary Slow Cut Valve Modification on Aisin 2F Carb
 
Thanks a lot for the responses! It's really cold in Chicago so i won't get back to the garage for a couple days. when i saw that leak i needed a break and gather my thoughts haha.

* could that leak be the combination of bad timing and spark with a rich of a mixture?
*if I'm asking this question its probably the issue, but I don't understand how the distributor could be off by a tooth because the gears slide right into each other and spin the rotor back? i also heard if it is seated fully then it cant be off.
 
Last edited:
Rob said you and he emailed. I'm glad he got in touch w/ him.
 
Looking back at your earlier posts, apparently the engine ran without the water pump for who knows how long when the belt broke and it overheated to an unknown temperature.

There was no mention of the engine running fine or even starting after that unfortunate overheating incident. Then the engine was desmogged.

Depending on how hot the engine got when the water pump stopped spinning, gaskets (head gasket, manifold gasket) could have been damaged.

I'd do a compression test. If that's good, I'd remove the manifold and check to see if it got warped. Replace the manifold gasket. It may not be sealing. You've got raw fuel dripping past the intake.

Only place it can leak out is at the mating surface at the manifold gasket, or if enough raw fuel is getting sucked into the combustion chamber and pumped back out into the exhaust manifold without being burned (cuz engine isn't running) it could weep past the downpipe gasket.

Jim's rebuilt carb was sent back to you ready to run. The carb wasn't the problem.


masonbarnard said:
* last time i drove this car it was running good until the smog pump seized on the highway and burnt the belt with it. Prior to all this it was running good. I'm guessing it was overheating for a couple minutes before i noticed and pulled off.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
masonbarnard said:
Thanks a lot for the responses! It's really cold in Chicago so i won't get back to the garage for a couple days. when i saw that leak i needed a break and gather my thoughts haha.

* could that leak be the combination of bad timing and spark with a rich of a mixture?
*if I'm asking this question its probably the issue, but I don't understand how the distributor could be off by a tooth because the gears slide right into each other and spin the rotor back? i also heard if it is seated fully then it cant be off.
Click to expand...
Leak is normally due to the brass bushing inside egging out and causing a small leak. Mine intermittently leaks but nothing overly bad that would cause me to remove the carb and remove that valve. I plan to eventually move to a Trollhole carb so I am not overly worried.

As for the dizzy being off, you can line it up 180* out of spec which could cause the issues you are finding. You can also align it slightly off which would cause slight timing issues. That is why you have to be very aware of everything when R&R the dizzy.
 
Give us a pic of your dizzy position at TDC. Hard to tell in your vid but it looks like it's still 1 tooth off.
 
There are 2 possibilities here:
1. The cyl head or gasket may be shot from overheating.
2. The ignition timing is off by 1or 2 teeth.

Because internal engine damage is a niggling possibility, pull & clean the spark plugs, the run a compression test. Make sure all cylinders are above 120PSI.

With plugs out so you can verify #1 piston moving up on compression stroke, get #1 piston to 7°BTDC (pointer on the BB). Install dissy so rotor is roughly pointing at #4 plug and THE TRIGGER WHEEL IS LINED UP PERFECTLY WITH THE BLADE OF THE PICKUP COIL. Yes, I know I'm using my outside voice. It's important.

Install cleaned plugs, run plug wires in correct order, start it up.
 
Yes! I did it!
installed distributor at the bb. Prior I was installing at the line. I was a tooth off. I was able to get the rotor exactly pointed at #4 plug, I removed the valve cover and 100% made sure I was on compression. Who knows if this was a issue before as well as being a tooth off.

Reinstalled the carb and triple checked everything.

When It started it; it was leaking the exact same way (saw a
Drip down the exhaust manifold), but it then went away... after about a minute.
no leak anymore? Wtf was that?

vacuum gauge hooked up to gas filter reads very steady at 14psi. How can I raise this?

I haven't tuned the carb at all, or adjusted timing. I didn't want to get ahead of myself and will do so this weekend
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom