So did you galvanize the frame or not? I was confused when you were lifting up the frame to get paint inside. If you did galvanize it, why do you need to get paint inside the frame rails?
The truck is truly amazing!
Zack
Frankie - '87 FJ-60 Refurbishment Plus a Few Mods (1 Viewer)
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So did you galvanize the frame or not? I was confused when you were lifting up the frame to get paint inside. If you did galvanize it, why do you need to get paint inside the frame rails?
The truck is truly amazing!
Zack
mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
Extra protection I would assume.
- Thread starter
- #184
Thank you Zack, Mongoose, Red Wagon, Phoenician, Spike, Johnny, and everyone else who has dropped by to take a peek. Zack, the frame was both galvanized and painted inside and out. It probably wasn't necessary to do both but, after putting in so much time and effort into the truck, I don't want to leave any weaknesses for the elements to destroy it.
My picture records skip a little bit here. We didn't take time to shoot many photos of the frame before lowering the body and none of the lowering process. I'll try to get some good shots of it all assembled showing the new hardware, etc.
With the body back safely on the frame, I returned to cleaning up the engine and assembling the transfer case.
It was absolutely filthy. This was the second tarp I filled with oily gunk. Solvents wouldn't touch it. The only thing that worked was manually scraping it off with plastic scrapers and wire brushes; followed by rubbing it with coarse rags dipped in paint thinner. I still left a lot of grime on the engine, especially below the water pump. It didn't seem worth the effort for a tired engine. If I pull it again to overhaul, I will beautify it then.
While the focus of this photo it the case, I like it because it shows just how tall and narrow the 2F is when all the accessories are stripped off.
Here is the bushing part numbers to tighten up your shift levers.
My picture records skip a little bit here. We didn't take time to shoot many photos of the frame before lowering the body and none of the lowering process. I'll try to get some good shots of it all assembled showing the new hardware, etc.
With the body back safely on the frame, I returned to cleaning up the engine and assembling the transfer case.
It was absolutely filthy. This was the second tarp I filled with oily gunk. Solvents wouldn't touch it. The only thing that worked was manually scraping it off with plastic scrapers and wire brushes; followed by rubbing it with coarse rags dipped in paint thinner. I still left a lot of grime on the engine, especially below the water pump. It didn't seem worth the effort for a tired engine. If I pull it again to overhaul, I will beautify it then.
While the focus of this photo it the case, I like it because it shows just how tall and narrow the 2F is when all the accessories are stripped off.
Here is the bushing part numbers to tighten up your shift levers.
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- Thread starter
- #185
New pilot bearing and rear main oil seal.
Here I had put the engine back in the truck because I had to return the borrowed hoist. It's setting on the front mounts and a jack stand under the bell housing. The first time I tried putting in the new clutch and pressure plate was while hanging from the hoist. It pivotted on me and I dropped the clutch plate to the concrete floor, damaging it. :whoops: I bought a second new clutch to go with the new OEM pressure plate and resurfaced fly wheel. The installation went much easier from the ground.
Everything back together with the new throw out bearing and clutch slave.
Here I had put the engine back in the truck because I had to return the borrowed hoist. It's setting on the front mounts and a jack stand under the bell housing. The first time I tried putting in the new clutch and pressure plate was while hanging from the hoist. It pivotted on me and I dropped the clutch plate to the concrete floor, damaging it. :whoops: I bought a second new clutch to go with the new OEM pressure plate and resurfaced fly wheel. The installation went much easier from the ground.
Everything back together with the new throw out bearing and clutch slave.
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
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It looks very clean and good, we cleaned an engine last weekend with special solvent and an air compressor with a thing that looked like a spraycan connected, good mix of solvent and air.
The solvent from the shops is environmental friendly so comparable to water, after a few minutes we used gasoline (if any spark would occur that would have been a huge flame plus some damage :whoops
but it worked, engine was clean.
Found this picture, sold as oil spray, must be perfect to mix old oil/atf and spray in the frame.
The solvent from the shops is environmental friendly so comparable to water, after a few minutes we used gasoline (if any spark would occur that would have been a huge flame plus some damage :whoops
but it worked, engine was clean.Found this picture, sold as oil spray, must be perfect to mix old oil/atf and spray in the frame.
mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
Brilliant progress, I will be starting my frame swap this spring. Your build is mind blowing!
- Thread starter
- #188
Thanks, Mongoose. I look forward to seeing your build when you get started.
Work got busy for several weeks after returning the hoist. I was a a bit burned out as well. When a hobby ceases to be fun and starts to feel like work, then it's time to take a break until you want to do it again.
After nearly a month, I pulled the engine again and stabbed the tranny from the workbench. This made it about as easy as is possible, even without a clutch alignment too.
Then I pulled the dizzy and side cover to replace the cover gasket.
A little rattle can paint, a new starter, plugs, and oil filter and it's starting to look pretty good.
After replacing the manifold gasket and carb spacer/heat shield, I took a few minutes to paint the badges on the valve cover. I didn't get fancy and polish anything. Just cleaned it up.
Work got busy for several weeks after returning the hoist. I was a a bit burned out as well. When a hobby ceases to be fun and starts to feel like work, then it's time to take a break until you want to do it again.
After nearly a month, I pulled the engine again and stabbed the tranny from the workbench. This made it about as easy as is possible, even without a clutch alignment too.
Then I pulled the dizzy and side cover to replace the cover gasket.
A little rattle can paint, a new starter, plugs, and oil filter and it's starting to look pretty good.
After replacing the manifold gasket and carb spacer/heat shield, I took a few minutes to paint the badges on the valve cover. I didn't get fancy and polish anything. Just cleaned it up.
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- Thread starter
- #189
I have a new front main and timing cover gasket but I couldn't get the nut off the harmonic balancer. There isn't anything to keep the crank from rotating and my impact wouldn't budge it. I didn't want to block it with a single tooth on the flywheel, and risk breaking it, so I decided to wait until the driveshaft is back in.
The 2F plus trans/trans case was an unwieldy combo but I managed to stuff it all back in an inch at a time.
I didn't have a load leveler. The weight of the transmission pulled the rear down to about the right angle for insertion but then I had to use a floor jack to tip the assembly forward enough to get the cross member bolted back up. For a solo operation, it went pretty well.
A sigh of relief when the shifters lined up correctly in their openings.
The 2F plus trans/trans case was an unwieldy combo but I managed to stuff it all back in an inch at a time.
I didn't have a load leveler. The weight of the transmission pulled the rear down to about the right angle for insertion but then I had to use a floor jack to tip the assembly forward enough to get the cross member bolted back up. For a solo operation, it went pretty well.
A sigh of relief when the shifters lined up correctly in their openings.
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How did you paint the inside of the frame? Was it dipped?
What did that run you? Galvanised first then painted.
I like that you did that. I am setting myself up to rebuild and SAS my 4Runner. I don't want to spend a bunch of money and not take care of the frame.
How did you do rust removal on the inside of the frame?
I had an idea to build a box frame and tarps to make a big bath. Then I think it's baking soda, water and an electric current attached to the frame with a battery power source (don't want to kill yourself) it removes all the rust. Get it painted right away and have a worry free restored frame.
Ideas?
What did that run you? Galvanised first then painted.
I like that you did that. I am setting myself up to rebuild and SAS my 4Runner. I don't want to spend a bunch of money and not take care of the frame.
How did you do rust removal on the inside of the frame?
I had an idea to build a box frame and tarps to make a big bath. Then I think it's baking soda, water and an electric current attached to the frame with a battery power source (don't want to kill yourself) it removes all the rust. Get it painted right away and have a worry free restored frame.
Ideas?
It might be cheaper, easyer, and equally effective to rent an industrial sand blaster for rust removal.
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- Thread starter
- #192
I had a sand blasting company clean the frame. The outside was clean. They did the best they could to reach the inside by spraying through the holes. Undoubtedly there was still debris deep inside the boxed areas when it went to the galvinizer. The acid dip should have removed nearly all the remnants before the zinc tank.
The real fly in the ointment is where the spring perches and body ears are riveted on. Unless you disassemble everything (and some of it is both welded and riveted), there will always be entombed corrosion. I pulled the rear C-channels but left the perches and ears. So long as those areas remain dry and are denied oxygen they should remain static. Time will tell how well the frame is protected.
The whole process of blasting, dipping, blasting again, painting, and transportation was around $3k. The galvanizing was actually cheaper than the paint. Prep labor I'm assuming.
I've seen instruction videos for electrically removing rust. If you had a big enough tank, I'm sure it would clean the rust from the frame. It wouldn't touch the oil/dust/sand/grease deposits though. The process makes a horrible mess and then you're left with the problem of disposing of the chemicals from the bath. A tarp might not be sufficiently chemical resistant to hold up for the days of soaking required. I suspect that when you add up all the costs of chemicals and pre-cleaning, you'll find that media blasting is more cost effective.
I think you might be right.
They have started putting down that bromine crap here on the West Coast of Canada. Soon we will have rotted out vehicles just as bad as the East. My rust stayed static the whole time I was in the North because they just use gravel. I'd rather replace a windshield every year over having my vehicle rot away.....
Anyway, I'm looking for a nice clean frame to get to work on.
They have started putting down that bromine crap here on the West Coast of Canada. Soon we will have rotted out vehicles just as bad as the East. My rust stayed static the whole time I was in the North because they just use gravel. I'd rather replace a windshield every year over having my vehicle rot away.....
Anyway, I'm looking for a nice clean frame to get to work on.
Subscribed
sschruff
Make PSILOCYBIN legal for TBI/PTSD/TRA&D
The single best thread I've read on any forum, anywhere, in all my 45.5 yrs on this planet.
The outright guts, determination and passion to hit this project head-on like you did is worthy of a lifetime achievement award.
The attention to detail, ingenuity, and proactive/preventative measures taken during the build should be in the 'how to rebuild and/or restore your land cruiser 101', authored by you.
I now feel significantly less crazy, guilty, and OCD for my own project that started with 'some basic mods/improvements', and has now turned into a frame-off mod/resto and assigning Beno as my financial advisor =)
Speaking of Beno, I'd say (IMO) you are now running neck-and-neck with Beno. . .as the two of you have become the official LC FJ fanatics - a club I hope to join in the next year (give or take a 2nd job, a divorce, and professional psychiatric help).
Hats off to you, man. . .simply incredible, extremely informative and very well written.
Shane
The outright guts, determination and passion to hit this project head-on like you did is worthy of a lifetime achievement award.
The attention to detail, ingenuity, and proactive/preventative measures taken during the build should be in the 'how to rebuild and/or restore your land cruiser 101', authored by you.
I now feel significantly less crazy, guilty, and OCD for my own project that started with 'some basic mods/improvements', and has now turned into a frame-off mod/resto and assigning Beno as my financial advisor =)
Speaking of Beno, I'd say (IMO) you are now running neck-and-neck with Beno. . .as the two of you have become the official LC FJ fanatics - a club I hope to join in the next year (give or take a 2nd job, a divorce, and professional psychiatric help).
Hats off to you, man. . .simply incredible, extremely informative and very well written.
Shane
Totally subscribed!
Amazing post. And just starting on my own restoration project with 2 eager teenagers.
Thanks for being so detailed (and taking all the pics)!
Amazing post. And just starting on my own restoration project with 2 eager teenagers.
Thanks for being so detailed (and taking all the pics)!
- Thread starter
- #197
Thank you, Shane. Your compliments are very kind. I've tried to build Frankie as best I know how. It's reassuring that other Mudders feel I'm doing a good job of it. I'm not sure how to feel about becoming one of the standards for Land Cruiser OCD though. 
It is funny how one little improvement leads to huge project.
There are some really great build threads on Mud that make what I've done seem quaint. Here are a few of my favorites:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/joes-87-60-frameoff-using-88-62-frame.239543/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/project-x².542618/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-2f-to-1hz-t-swap-thread.159678/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/84-fj60-resto.199378/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dougberts-future-350-swap-how-much-torque-is-too-much.541922/
CruiserZen, thank you and good luck working with your kids on your restoration. I'm sure it will be a great bonding experience. I know I learned a lot working with my dad on his '71 Fleetside as a kid. They will thank you for experience later, if not today.
I haven't had much to post for several months. Spring is a busy time and my work has been pretty consuming lately. After getting the engine back in, to return the borrowed crane, it still needed quite a bit of attention. The front main had to be changed before the radiator could go back in. Even with the driveshafts attached, the brake on, and the tires chocked the harmonic balancer nut would not budge. A good impact and 120 psi - nothing. I pulled out a 3/4" rachet and added a 3' cheater pipe - nothing. Finally, after some good mudders advice about using heat and possible the starter motor, I got it. The batteries were out so the starter trick seemed like a last resort. I used a propane torch and heated the nut a fair amount, circling it, hoping to heat the nut before heating the crank. That, plus getting a little angry, did the trick.
When I pulled the balancer, I immediatly understood why the front main was leaking so badly.
Even the timing cover had a massive scar in it. Something natsy got stuck in there at some point. There was no evidence of what it might have been. The timing and cam gears had all their teeth. I haven't pulled the pan yet to see if it's been caught there, though I do have a new gasket for it.
It is funny how one little improvement leads to huge project.There are some really great build threads on Mud that make what I've done seem quaint. Here are a few of my favorites:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/joes-87-60-frameoff-using-88-62-frame.239543/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/project-x².542618/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-2f-to-1hz-t-swap-thread.159678/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/84-fj60-resto.199378/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dougberts-future-350-swap-how-much-torque-is-too-much.541922/
CruiserZen, thank you and good luck working with your kids on your restoration. I'm sure it will be a great bonding experience. I know I learned a lot working with my dad on his '71 Fleetside as a kid. They will thank you for experience later, if not today.
I haven't had much to post for several months. Spring is a busy time and my work has been pretty consuming lately. After getting the engine back in, to return the borrowed crane, it still needed quite a bit of attention. The front main had to be changed before the radiator could go back in. Even with the driveshafts attached, the brake on, and the tires chocked the harmonic balancer nut would not budge. A good impact and 120 psi - nothing. I pulled out a 3/4" rachet and added a 3' cheater pipe - nothing. Finally, after some good mudders advice about using heat and possible the starter motor, I got it. The batteries were out so the starter trick seemed like a last resort. I used a propane torch and heated the nut a fair amount, circling it, hoping to heat the nut before heating the crank. That, plus getting a little angry, did the trick.
When I pulled the balancer, I immediatly understood why the front main was leaking so badly.
Even the timing cover had a massive scar in it. Something natsy got stuck in there at some point. There was no evidence of what it might have been. The timing and cam gears had all their teeth. I haven't pulled the pan yet to see if it's been caught there, though I do have a new gasket for it.
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- Thread starter
- #198
New harmonic balancers are ridiculously expensive, even by LC standards. I sourced a clean used one, tidied it up a bit, painted it, polished the sealing surface and installed it along with a cleaned up and painted timing cover. It's important to leave the cover slightly loose until the balancer is mounted. This allows the seal to center on the crank and should help reduce leaks later. Nearly every bolt holding on the cover is a diferent length because of the various thickness of material its bolted to plus the pipe brackets for the cooling system. I used a piece of cardboard with the bolts stuck in holes punched in it in the shape of the cover to keep them sorted.
- Thread starter
- #199
I replaced nearly every hose on the truck at this time, fuel, water, hydraulic, and vacuum. The only ones I skipped were the fuel vent lines from the tank into the right rear quarter and the impossible to find emissions hoses. I may yet desmog this truck and have no intention of spending coin on air pump hoses. When I could, I sourced moulded hoses from Toyota. The rest were either generic moulds from the LAPS or bulk staight hose. I kept records of what p/n's worked if anyone wants them.
I changed from the Toyota style wire clamps to Swedish made ABA. I'm sure the purists will cringe but I think they are a very good clamp. It's a good idea to consider where to place the tightening screw. It's a compromise between keeping them easy to access when everything is installed and hiding them so they don't cut your hands when you're working on other components. The same is true for wiring zip ties. A pair of dedicated flush cut dykes is worth every penny IMHO.
The vacumm lines are silicon. After trying the blue, I think I would stick with black next time. For now I'm not going to change it.
I rerouted many of the fuel and vacuum lines on the right fender. I wanted it to be easier to reach the distributor and oil filter. It moves the fuel lines farther from heat sources and, I think, cleans up the engine bay.
I changed from the Toyota style wire clamps to Swedish made ABA. I'm sure the purists will cringe but I think they are a very good clamp. It's a good idea to consider where to place the tightening screw. It's a compromise between keeping them easy to access when everything is installed and hiding them so they don't cut your hands when you're working on other components. The same is true for wiring zip ties. A pair of dedicated flush cut dykes is worth every penny IMHO.
The vacumm lines are silicon. After trying the blue, I think I would stick with black next time. For now I'm not going to change it.
I rerouted many of the fuel and vacuum lines on the right fender. I wanted it to be easier to reach the distributor and oil filter. It moves the fuel lines farther from heat sources and, I think, cleans up the engine bay.
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Once again... absolutely beautiful work going on here.
J
J
