Frame Coating Paint, Powder or POR

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Threads
12
Messages
53
Location
Norman, OK
I've read the various threads regarding frame treatments and I'm trying to decide the best choice for my cruiser, keeping in mind that I'd like to end up with a Cruiser that looks as close to OEM as possible, yet still take advantage of any new technologies that will preserve its life.

Currently, the Cruiser's frame has surface rust only, nothing deep.
IMG_2906.webp

From what I can find in the threads, POR/Rust Bullit has the advantage of being inexpensive, user applied, easily repaired and does not require sandblasting. The disadvantage is that it doesn't look very OEM, , the black color fades over time and it's difficult to get inside the frame rails.

Paint would require sandblasting and probably an epoxy primer. The advantage is that it's easy to do, looks OEM and its fairly easy to repair. The disadvantage is that it too is difficult to get inside the frame rails and the frame will require sandblasting.

Powder Coating. While expensive, apparently provides better protection than paint, will get inside the frame rails (if properly applied) and looks close to OEM. The disadvantages are that damage is not easily repaired and the frame will need to be sandblasted before the frame is powder coated.

Not really an option: Hot dip or zinc galvanizing as these are not easily available in my area. I'm tending toward powder coating. Your thoughts?

IMG_2906.webp
 
Paint can be applied inside the rails with a brush. I used a wheel cleaning brush from my local Big Lots. No streaks or brush strokes (not that you could see them inside the frame anyways. POR-15 and most similar products need to be topcoated with a UV resistant paint (on a truck, especially, since the frame is exposed). This will help to maintain the OEM appearance.
 
I would say hands down powder coating.

Caveats: planning on mods/repairs afterwards? then paint it.

anything thats going to last is going to require a clean slate to start with. sand blasting is part of the equation for anything worth while. I am far too lazy to spend 40 hours with a wire wheel and 10 hours picking the wires out of my clothes, legs, arms etc, to consider my manual labor to prep a frame for restoration... besides that, sandblasting does a much better job and leaves a textured, not polished surface that paint and other coatings can adhere to. Wire wheeling is about the worst surface to expect paint or other top coats to adhere to other than chrome or wax.

Powder coating simply is the most uniform, best looking(IMO) and least work(although $$$) option out there. If youre looking to do a resto, and arent going to perform modifcations that require removing metal or adding metal to the frame, its the best way.

Powder coating in San Diego is stupidly expensive if you dont take a while on the phone and/or mind driving away from some place with the frame still strapped to the trailer. So much business from sand rails over the years has spoiled the powder coaters and for some reason they arent willing to deal with anything other than new tube chassis's and think anything else is a reason to gouge you.... RW Little does slow costly work, but its good. Lots of places in East county will do equal work, quicker for less money.
 
I used POR-15 on my floor pan in my drag bug and I think it turned out awesome. If I had enough post I add a pic. Lots of work but worth it with the end result. I hand rolled mine but POR can be sprayed on if you thin it.
 
The POR15 topcoat, chassis black, looks pretty OEM and is pretty tough stuff. Two coats of POR15 followed by one coat of the chassis black and you would be pretty hard pressed to do better. You only need the chassis black on the outside so you really only have to worry about the inside of the frame rails with the POR15.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom