Foxes are on!

[spressomon]

My next question is why not run 2.5" shocks in the rear

And you thought you were done... It's never done.

That's an idea...wonder how it would be with 2" in front and 2.5" in rear?

 

[hoser]

The pinion and t-case flanges are not parallel...although probably at borderline range of being acceptable (the pinion points directly at the t-case output...which it should be rotated down...which would put it back to stock #1 and take care of the spring perch issue #2).

Oh got it, so you want the two U-joints to be "in phase" with eachother by putting both at the same angle. Btw, my driveline vibration seemed to 'self-heal' after 2-3 months post gears. None whatsoever up to 80 mph.

 

[spressomon]

Oh got it, so you want the two U-joints to be "in phase" with eachother by putting both at the same angle. Btw, my driveline vibration seemed to 'self-heal' after 2-3 months post gears. None whatsoever up to 80 mph.

Yes...would like both flanges parallel to each other since I am running u-joints. FYI: I installed the OME 864's about 6-weeks ago...so the arse end is up a little higher now...it sits perfect all loaded with the trailer.

Mine is weird...it feels just like a bad u-joint at times...then smooths out...then back to the vibe thing. I had our local drive line experts take a look at it...and they made sure I wouldn't take my rig there anymore .

 

[calamaridog]

That's an idea...wonder how it would be with 2" in front and 2.5" in rear?

I don't see how it would matter if you had different sizes front a rear as long as the valving is matched. The benefit of the 2.5" diameter shock is about 50% more oil capacity. I don't think the cost is that much more per shock. At this point it may be pointless since you already have the 2".

Sorry, just thinking out loud...

 

[Augie]

Nice Dan.
I been researching this myself but leaning more toward Bilstein 7100 AK7112SB09 due to the short body availability that match N74L collapsed dimension but with 12" travel instead. This shock seem to be really popular on the 80 lately. With my closed to stock weight I could special order them with BE5-2740 stock valving to reduce guesswork.

As for oil capacity I would not even worry unless you cycle your suspension at high speed a lot. In fact I liked ATS 4x4 bilstein due to its simplicity. The only drawback is cost for 4 unit because of the custom valving. If I use 7100 with BE5-2740 valving I could use stock front bilstein BE5-2739 and come out about $300 less. I am not interested with increased front travel due concerns with steering rack and upper ball joint.

 

[spressomon]

I don't see how it would matter if you had different sizes front a rear as long as the valving is matched. The benefit of the 2.5" diameter shock is about 50% more oil capacity. I don't think the cost is that much more per shock. At this point it may be pointless since you already have the 2".

Sorry, just thinking out loud...

Agreed...I think, based upon conversations with Sam, the 2.5" is a better choice. If we are going to redo the rears I might opt for the 2.5" if clearance allows...for my uses especially when pulling the trailer it might be prudent. We do a fair amount of 50mph gravel/dirt/washboard roads and I was already concerned about cooking the 2"...

 

[calamaridog]

As for oil capacity I would not even worry unless you cycle your suspension at high speed a lot. In fact I liked ATS 4x4 bilstein due to its simplicity. The only drawback is cost for 4 unit because of the custom valving. If I use 7100 with BE5-2740 valving I could use stock front bilstein BE5-2739 and come out about $300 less. I am not interested with increased front travel due concerns with steering rack and upper ball joint.

Dan is pretty much maxing out the use of the 100 series regarding severe duty with a heavy load and aggressive multi day trips. If there is room for the 2.5" shock back there it certainly wouldn't hurt. They are not much more expensive than 2" diameter ones.

 

[calamaridog]

Agreed...I think, based upon conversations with Sam, the 2.5" is a better choice. If we are going to redo the rears I might opt for the 2.5" if clearance allows...for my uses especially when pulling the trailer it might be prudent. We do a fair amount of 50mph gravel/dirt/washboard roads and I was already concerned about cooking the 2"...

Whatever you do, hurry up and dirt-road test those suckers

 

[spressomon]

Whatever you do, hurry up and dirt-road test those suckers

Didn't do any high speed off-road today...but rocks and general travel through the hills...and they are much better than my OME's. More compliant and more controlled...and the suspension/truck felt like it was articulating better/more effectively.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Off topic, but you mentioned a local drive shaft shop...I bet it's the same one I called 411 and asked for Tom Woods drive shafts from their lobby. It amazes me how they will sell driveshafts for lifted vehicles and get mad at you when you go back in with questions/concerns...

 

[spressomon]

Off topic, but you mentioned a local drive shaft shop...I bet it's the same one I called 411 and asked for Tom Woods drive shafts from their lobby. It amazes me how they will sell driveshafts for lifted vehicles and get mad at you when you go back in with questions/concerns...

Exactly: Arrogant...expensive...and they don't know their sh*t!

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

I'm fairly certain they are the 6.5" and 10"...however Sam's wife takes care of the receipts and she was packing for a camping vacation...and the Fox boxes, which I have, don't list part #'s. I should have the part #'s sometime next week.

Lift up the little bump rubbers and get the No's engraved in the top of the shaft end mounts, these are the part No's and if they come with not out of the box valving, the other No's are the valving set up.

PM

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

hoser: The other thing (OK...it's a thread buster but it's MY thread so what the heck huh?!) I have been wanting to take care of but after staring at the issue again last night under the rig...it's going to the top of the list. Have you either shortened your upper OR lengthened your lower link rods in back? Since the taller springs (particularly the 864's of recent addition) it has rotated the rear axle/housing clockwise...thereby forcing the coil springs to sorta arch...instead of being straight/perpendicular between the perches.


Just when I thought the "list" was getting shorter .

Slot the seat mounts on the diff and tils the spring seats closer to horizontal at ride height, then weld them back up, works a treat.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

that is a clever upper eye mount,

generally moving it inboard like that reduces the effectiveness of the shocks- is it minor so it doesn't affect it much? or is there a way to keep it more centered-in line with the orig. mounting.

you need aprox 10% more valving for every 10 deg of angle you intoduce on the shock to 45 deg.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

Agreed...I think, based upon conversations with Sam, the 2.5" is a better choice. If we are going to redo the rears I might opt for the 2.5" if clearance allows...for my uses especially when pulling the trailer it might be prudent. We do a fair amount of 50mph gravel/dirt/washboard roads and I was already concerned about cooking the 2"...

With remote cans you wont overheat the 2".

 

[spressomon]

Lift up the little bump rubbers and get the No's engraved in the top of the shaft end mounts, these are the part No's and if they come with not out of the box valving, the other No's are the valving set up.

PM

6.5" front 40/60 valving
10" rear 40/60 valving

 

[Campfire]

Looks great Dan, I'll come up and you can show me how good they work on one of those nice trails.

No rubbing problem with the front resevoir on the frame there?

 

[spressomon]

No rubbing problem with the front resevoir on the frame there?

No.

 

[spressomon]

Ok...Sam just learned, from one of his Taco customers, that Fox offers a nice easy to adjust click stop compression adjuster wheel that sits atop the reservoir [the customer found it on a Fox reseller's website...NOT from Fox directly (!)]. Apparently Fox doesn't list it...but if you know the part # it can be ordered. He is going to order just the adjustable compression valve 'cap/tops' and install them on my Fox shocks. I can't wait to feel how the different settings effect the tune.

I can certainly see why Fox wouldn't want to tell anyone about this cool and useful feature...jeez they might actually sell some .

 

[justimaginejack]

Spressomon,
help me to understand what the main benefits was over the Bilstein set up? I belive it is travel and valving correct?
What did all this cost and and if I wanted to do it, what should I look out for?
Thanks for the pics!