Fox Shox 2.0 post your valving and weight.

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Also just a quick note on the compression stack...
The 1.425" after the flutter is that of to bring the mid range in sooner..
Just an FYI.
The two guys that responded...
I know one of you already pm'ed and the person, pm us the shipping details..
Thank you,
Sonny
:cheers:


Downsouth Motorsports said:
Good morning,
Not to jump in and HiJack the thread, this is Sonny form Downsouth Motorsports and we just became and vendor on here (No I am not going to try and sell you something right now) ha,ha...
But some of the valving combos are interesting to read and some of the questions because I am normally the one who works on the shocks and plays with the valving. One thing I would like to note is that just as it was stated earlier that we will re-valve the shock as many times as you would like us to (Customer pays the shipping to us and back to them) until you feel comfortable.
Valving is subjective and that is what happened early on and we were hearing so many different responses from different valvings we were sending out.Light compression and slow rebound and then they needed more compression and faster rebound and so on and so on.
Then you throw in the added weight and different spring rates and compression adjusters and then we had trouble getting accurate info from some of the customers and that threw a wrench in the whole program.
Fox pistons are cast in there standard off the shelf 2.0" shocks and they normally have a "2" Bleed hole piston in them. Some of the stem top stuff comes with "1" bleed hole in the piston depending on who you order the shocks from. The stem top 10" shocks are normally a universal stem top shock and that is why there is an inconstancy in the piston.
Valving is infinite and we are here to help you with any questions you may have whether you choose to purchase shocks from us or not.
Now just a side note on valving:
2 bleed versus 1 bleed:
1 Bleed open will increase the low speed for tighter feel so to say mainly because you are forcing the fluid to travel through the valve stack instead of allowing it to free bleed under a hard hit.
Here is a valving I would like to try for the front mainly:
Compression:
1.60" x .008
1.425" x .008
.950 x .010
1.425" x .012
1.350" x .012
1.10" x .015
1.10" x .010
.950" x .015
.800" x .020
Rebound:
#80
Single Bleed hole open piston
DU style wear band for the piston
Non compression adjuster
Standard weight vehicle (No extra weight)
Daily street driven rig.
Let me know if anyone ( one or two people) are interested and I will send you the
valve stacks at no charge and cover the shipping in the USA.
If you message me it will go to Micah's e-mail...so you may not get a response for a day or so, but I will do my best to keep an eye on the thread if anyone responds.
Thank you,
Sonny
Click to expand...
 
Sonny,

Thank you for stepping in and bringing some real expertise to this thread! Unexpected circumstances forced me to sell my Fox shocks but I am still very interested in the development of suitable valving profiles for our application!

Anxious to see what 86tuning and/or TheBigBoy think of your proposed stack! :popcorn:
 
Downsouth Motorsports said:
Good morning,
Not to jump in and HiJack the thread, this is Sonny form Downsouth Motorsports and we just became and vendor on here (No I am not going to try and sell you something right now) ha,ha...
But some of the valving combos are interesting to read and some of the questions because I am normally the one who works on the shocks and plays with the valving. One thing I would like to note is that just as it was stated earlier that we will re-valve the shock as many times as you would like us to (Customer pays the shipping to us and back to them) until you feel comfortable.
Valving is subjective and that is what happened early on and we were hearing so many different responses from different valvings we were sending out.Light compression and slow rebound and then they needed more compression and faster rebound and so on and so on.
Then you throw in the added weight and different spring rates and compression adjusters and then we had trouble getting accurate info from some of the customers and that threw a wrench in the whole program.
Fox pistons are cast in there standard off the shelf 2.0" shocks and they normally have a "2" Bleed hole piston in them. Some of the stem top stuff comes with "1" bleed hole in the piston depending on who you order the shocks from. The stem top 10" shocks are normally a universal stem top shock and that is why there is an inconstancy in the piston.
Valving is infinite and we are here to help you with any questions you may have whether you choose to purchase shocks from us or not.
Now just a side note on valving:
2 bleed versus 1 bleed:
1 Bleed open will increase the low speed for tighter feel so to say mainly because you are forcing the fluid to travel through the valve stack instead of allowing it to free bleed under a hard hit.
Here is a valving I would like to try for the front mainly:
Compression:
1.60" x .008
1.425" x .008
.950 x .010
1.425" x .012
1.350" x .012
1.10" x .015
1.10" x .010
.950" x .015
.800" x .020
Rebound:
#80
Single Bleed hole open piston
DU style wear band for the piston
Non compression adjuster
Standard weight vehicle (No extra weight)
Daily street driven rig.
Let me know if anyone ( one or two people) are interested and I will send you the
valve stacks at no charge and cover the shipping in the USA.
If you message me it will go to Micah's e-mail...so you may not get a response for a day or so, but I will do my best to keep an eye on the thread if anyone responds.
Thank you,
Sonny
Click to expand...

HI Sonny,
PM on the way. I'll also shoot you an email directly to the downsouth address. I'd be up for trying some different valving combinations, though I do have extra weight over stock (maybe 3-400 lbs)

Just saw this post and I was wanting to get my shocks revalved anyway. Did a trip out to utah and its still pretty harsh on the washboard/small bumps and a little soft on the bigger stuff.

Corey
 
Last edited:
Waiting for parts to show up. USPS international plus the border nazis and it will prolly take a whole month lol.
 
I recently did a trip out to Death Valley and traveled some rough roads. The shock (2.0 remote) body's got
f-ing hot. I burned my finger touching them then pulled my arm out fast enough I banged my elbow on the flair and cut it.

Well anyways, do I need to change the oil out or anything like that? I have the nitrogen and the no loss valve already.
 
Rwhat said:
I recently did a trip out to Death Valley and traveled some rough roads. The shock (2.0 remote) body's got
f-ing hot. I burned my finger touching them then pulled my arm out fast enough I banged my elbow on the flair and cut it.

Well anyways, do I need to change the oil out or anything like that? I have the nitrogen and the no loss valve already.
Click to expand...

Very interested to hear the outcome here since I need to still decide on shocks.
 
Rwhat said:
I recently did a trip out to Death Valley and traveled some rough roads. The shock (2.0 remote) body's got
f-ing hot. I burned my finger touching them then pulled my arm out fast enough I banged my elbow on the flair and cut it.

Well anyways, do I need to change the oil out or anything like that? I have the nitrogen and the no loss valve already.
Click to expand...

I'm still learning about all this stuff, so take this with a grain of salt. Are you worried that you burnt the oil or something? Keep in mind that a mono-tube shock like the fox will shed heat much better than a twin tube, so they'll be hotter to the touch. To actually burn your finger it seems the shock would have to be in the 400+ degrees temp? That seems a bit warm for a shock, but maybe someone else will chime in that has more experience with these.
 
I should mention, that it was the back of my finger that got burned. No skin came off and got stuck to the shock or anything like that. I knew they would be hot, but was not expectng that hot. We had 5 cruisers total running stock shocks, OME nitros, Doetsch, and Radflos.

I made the mistake the first day in traveling on washboard roads at low speed. That's what made them so hot. The next day I just started bombing at higher speeds where the ride smoothed out and the shocks absorbed the road a lot better with less heat.

I traveled over 100+ miles on washboard roads including the road to the "Race Track" and the shocks didn't skip a beat. After learning to speed up. We all were fully loaded. I had 2 fridges, 16 gallons of water, 5 gallons gas, food,a lot of beer and a passenger. So my junk was heavy.
 
On engines, synthetic oils are fine past 260F so I would imagine that synthetic shock oil will also be fine.

Any guesses to the actual temperature? The outside of a pot of boiling water is about 220F and can burn you as well.

I've been told that a shock dyno can make them so hot the stickers melt off...
 
Just got mine from the border nazis last week, waiting for a bit of free time to drop them in. Sorry for the delay, it's fishing season :o
 
This last week I had a chance to get out to the desert for 5 days or so and test out the new valving. Long story short, it was no bueno. I have been trying to get the washboard performance dialed in as the primary objective since most of my trips are geared towards getting into remote places as opposed to "wheeling".

I spent a number of hours last night reading into valving, shim stacks, etc. I think have an idea of whats going on and I suspect I've been inadvertently heading in the opposite direction with my valving than I wanted to go.

Its quite hard to tell as there is either very little good scientific information about valve stacks on the web, or I just can't find it. Information on flutter stacks is even harder to find.

So, I have one more valve stack I want to try that's almost 180 degrees difference from the last 2 I've had. I'll hold off on a full explanation of what I'm thinking until I get a chance to try it out.

I'm kicking around just ordering the tools to revalve the shocks from Down South since the shipping costs to/from Cali aren't trivial when repeated often :)

Here's the latest setup:
Code: 
.008   ----------1.600---------
.008    ---------1.425--------
.020            ---0.800---
.008    ---------1.425--------
.010      ------- 1.350------
.015        ------1.100-----
.015        ------1.100-----
.015           ---0.950---

Impressions

  • Not what I was looking for. Maybe even a step backwards from the previous setup.
  • Wallows more in cornering, etc. I attribute this to the thicker flutter stack allowing the first 2 low speed shims to flex more.
  • Pretty decent in the mid range larger travel bumps.
  • MUCH too stiff in any sort of washboard or cobblestone road. Truck felt like it was going to rattle apart and I had to limit my speed greatly. Even at lower speed on washboard / rough road I could feel every bump. I attribute this to the Much stiffer and added shim in the high shaft speed shims. (The 1.1 was doubled from the last shim stack which I think is what made this go around even worse than the last one as far as washboard.)
  • In short, not what I want. So, from the above notes, I'm going in the opposite direction. Need to beef up the first 2 shims just a hair to get the body roll under control. Go with a thinner flutter stack again. Leave the mid range alone, mostly. And lighten up the High speed shims a whole bunch. I think this current setup is way to progressive. I need to make the stack much more digressive (instead of linear or progressive) to make the washboard smooth out).
Depending on what comes of my trial and error I'll try and post up a bit more reasoning and the valve stack I go with. At the end of the day I suspect it will end up being a compromise as the incredibly high shaft speed and low shaft travel associated with washboard has to coexist with the medium shaft speed and high shaft travel with bigger bumps, as well as let the truck corner in a reasonable way. Thats why position sensitive valving / bypass shocks are the hot ticket, but thats not in my budget :)

Here's a few pics from the weekend for an idea what type of road caused all the driver fatigue and irritation :)

IMG_0172.JPG


IMG_0169.JPG



 
Great info! I'm using the same coils at roughly the same weight. I don't fully understand the reasons , but the biggest improvement I've experienced came from switching to 255's last week. Steering, cornering/body roll, harshness on washboard (at 35 psi!). This was from 285 load E Duratracs to 255 load E Toyo MT's on 6.5" wheels. I'll probably stay with original valving.

Alot can be said for tires. What psi are you running offroad?
 
Last edited:
With corrugated roads (we have a LOT of those in oz), air DOWN! Let the tyres do some of the work!

cheers,
george.
 
SHREDwagon said:
Great info! I'm using the same coils at roughly the same weight. I don't fully understand the reasons , but the biggest improvement I've experienced came from switching to 255's last week. Steering, cornering/body roll, harshness on washboard (at 35 psi!). This was from 285 load E Duratracs to 255 load E Toyo MT's on 6.5" wheels. I'll probably stay with original valving.

Alot can be said for tires. What psi are you running offroad?
Click to expand...

george_tlc said:
With corrugated roads (we have a LOT of those in oz), air DOWN! Let the tyres do some of the work!

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...

Admittedly I wasn't at a low PSI in the tires, and I 100% agree it makes a great deal of difference. (I did air down a bit halfway through the trip to make the driving a bit more bearable). However, since I am still in the "testing/setup" phase of these shocks I do NOT want soft tires masking improper valving. Once I get the shocks to where they need to be, then airing down of the tires is the final step.

Most of my testing has been done closer to street pressure so I'm trying to maintain that as a constant until I get the proper valving for my setup & usage. :cheers:
 
Keep up the research Coax, it'll be worth it at the end.

Just making sure that the lingo is correct here, "slow speed" is referring to shock piston velocity, not wheel speed, correct?
 
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