Builds "Forsaken 40" ~ 1st Frame-off Build

[DirtDauberGarage]

Looking good. Get it sand blasted and epoxy premiered. Then you can start working on any rust or body work you might have!

I hope to get mine in paint next week

 

[Drake2]

Looking good. Get it sand blasted and epoxy premiered. Then you can start working on any rust or body work you might have!

I hope to get mine in paint next week

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Wow, looks good. What was the cost for blasting and the epoxy primer? I was going to have mine go in the chemical bath for about $800

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

I did the epoxy priming myself and paid a guy $400 to blast it. I had to drive about an hour out of Atlanta to get that price. Everyone here in the city wanted $800-$1200 to blast it. Shop around, make some calls, and you should be able to find a deal.

Here is my videos on the blasting and priming. I talk about the epoxy I used some. It was my first time every using real paint and a real gun. It was not hard. You could totally do it! I also have a video on the $10 Harbor Freight paint gun I used. Feel free to DM me if you have any questions or if there is any way I can help!!!

 

[Drake2]

All the body bolts came out without resistance except the back 4. They needed some Sawzall persuasion unfortunately. Tub is ready to come off tonight!

 

[Braden620]

Once you get it off, grab two beers and find the wife, ask her if she wants to get in the "Tub", raise the eyebrows a few times. I bet my 11 years of marriage she will be amused.

 

[Drake2]

Once you get it off, grab two beers and find the wife, ask her if she wants to get in the "Tub", raise the eyebrows a few times. I bet my 11 years of marriage she will be amused.

I bet my 25 years of marriage she will have no clue what I am talking about. She is a foreigner from the eastern block so many of the "American" things don't register without an explanation.

 

[Braden620]

I bet my 25 years of marriage she will have no clue what I am talking about. She is a foreigner from the eastern block so many of the "American" things don't register without an explanation.

Well my wife is a genuine blonde, so I know what you mean.

 

[Drake2]

Finally, tub comes off the frame. Been waiting for this day for over a year. Now I get a good look at what the PO added to the frame. I guess he wanted to have some shock mounting options .

The PO even cut and boxed the mounts which I assume was for mounting the exhaust higher. I think I will leave those that way.

 

[Drake2]

Tub looking good off the frame. Still trying to decide on sandblasting or chemical dip. I know there will be body work to do and sandblasting will be bare metal afterwards so the bodywork will have to be done quickly whereas the chemical dip will provide a semi protective coating that can be washed off with water. The chemical dip place said they have had items sit for years before washing that layer off and no flash rust had happened. I do not anticipate doing the bodywork myself as I have no clue how to do it right nor do I have the tools to do it.

Sandblasting
Tub only - about $500
Doors, hood, fenders, ws frame, aprons, bib, etc - another $300

Chemical dip (10 days in the tank)
Tub only - about $800
Doors, hood, fenders, ws frame, aprons, bib, etc - another $400

Chemical dip will definitely do the best job and get all the places that sandblasting will not but at the same time the painter may not be able to get in those small tough areas and body channels, up behind the dash, etc....and they will be left unseen but also totally unprotected bare metal.

 

[Braden620]

The tub was all bare metal from the factory and Toyota was able to make it last this long. I think those hard to reach areas can be dealt with if a body guy knows what he is doing. For the impossible areas you can use a cavity wax, and you should probably be doing this anyways. I vote for the chem dip as it will neutralize all of the rust. A high quality epoxy primer sealer next. I would look into aviation primers as long as they are compatible with the top coat you desire. Fortunately the overstepping govt entity known as the EPA hasn't gotten the aviation industry bent over so hard when it comes to good chemicals yet, so their paints are much better than what's offered in the automotive world these days. Keep up the good work!

 

[Drake2]

A bit more progress. Have the frame supported with jackstands and the wheels off so I can start grinding off the stuff that does not belong, add the items that need to be there, and get it ready for blasting and paint.

Removing all the steering components. Tie rods were all in good condition so those will be saved. Joints and the box all go in the trash.

Disassembly of the OEM 67 front axle assembly. Will probably be making most of these parts available in the classifieds at some point. It is too bad the PO cut off the original shock mounts on the housing and welded on these big plates that actually don't work anyways. The housing is very clean, smooth, and basically rust free. I guess sitting under a tarp for 30 years in a dry part if California helps to preserve.

For some reason the steering arm is stuck at this point. The cone washers came out fine but this is as far as the arm will come off....Same on the bottom side. Hmmmm?

 

[Drake2]

Spent the weekend stripping the axles, springs etc.. Time to start cutting off the PO garbage shock and V8 mounts and put on correct ones. Then off to sandblasting.

 

[Braden620]

I'm not hugely familiar with the older models, but are there a few extra holes in that rear "bumper"?

 

[Drake2]

I'm not hugely familiar with the older models, but are there a few extra holes in that rear "bumper"?

I believe these are "extra", IIRC

 

[Drake2]

Decided to bring the frame outside and make the grinding and cut off mess. Got most of the BS cut off, couple more to go. Then onto smoothing everything out with the grinder and flap wheels.

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[Drake2]

Update here....suspected the original frame is bent/twisted. Found a new 77 rolling chassis that is mostly original and has already been blasted and painted black (saves me some $$$ from having to do the original frame). This build will now be a 67 tub on the 77 chassis.

 

[Drake2]

Pulled the SBC400 from the donor rig over the weekend. Now to get it soaked down with paint stripper and over to the pressure washer.

 

[Drake2]

The saga continues.....

Pulled a full set of 4" Skyjacker Softride springs from a donor rig that sat in a garage for about 20 years. Pulling them apart one pack at a time, hitting them with the wire wheel, replacing the bolts, bushings, and repainting them. These springs are getting a brand new life.

 

[Drake2]

Make sure to use a c-clamp when removing the center pin to prevent the pack from springing apart. Once the clamp is on you can remove the center pin completely and then back the clamp off slowly.

Using a punch to carefully remove the nylon sliders so we can reuse them when doing the reassembly.

 

[Drake2]

One pack completely cleaned and ready for paint.