The stainless steel tubing that connect to into the 100 series master cylinder, can those be replaced with a flex hose?
Flexhose to replace brake hardline? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jody Highroller
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I personally would NOT unless going with a high quality steel braided flex line, which will likely cost a lot more. Hard brake line does not flex and bloat under the internal pressures of braking like your typical flex line does, which is why super-duty braided flex lines exist for those situations where you need it to move. Though you could technically make your whole brake system from this, you typically want to minimize the flex portion.
FYI You can buy a piece of hard brake line at any auto supply store for like $1-2/ft. You can purchase a small pipe cutter, tube hand bender and a flaring tool, all at Harbor Freight for less than $20.
FYI You can buy a piece of hard brake line at any auto supply store for like $1-2/ft. You can purchase a small pipe cutter, tube hand bender and a flaring tool, all at Harbor Freight for less than $20.
- Thread starter
- #3
FYI You can buy a piece of hard brake line at any auto supply store for like $1-2/ft. You can purchase a small pipe cutter, tube hand bender and a flaring tool, all at Harbor Freight for less than $20.
Yeah that's what I'm doing. I was curious at the time of my insanity due to working on the 100 series brake system. Received in a rebuilt booster motor (from Euroton) and it's working. During reinstall I crossed up some threads on master cylinder connection. I've since had to re-pull the whole component, chase threads, cut tube, figure out how the heck I'm going to best get it back together without damage MC threads anymore than they are.
I think the solution is to cut down and connect a small flared line to the block (get it seated with no leaks) then Install the whole component to the fire wall. Then I can attach the rest of the line, attaching from bottom side and snake the hard line up toward the MC. Hopefully I can do a spliced connection with a compression union there....
Ugggghhhhh!
Such a Effin PAIN!
Yeah that's what I'm doing. I was curious at the time of my insanity due to working on the 100 series brake system. Received in a rebuilt booster motor (from Euroton) and it's working. During reinstall I crossed up some threads on master cylinder connection. I've since had to re-pull the whole component, chase threads, cut tube, figure out how the heck I'm going to best get it back together without damage MC threads anymore than they are.
I think the solution is to cut down and connect a small flared line to the block (get it seated with no leaks) then Install the whole component to the fire wall. Then I can attach the rest of the line, attaching from bottom side and snake the hard line up toward the MC. Hopefully I can do a spliced connection with a compression union there....
Ugggghhhhh!
Such a Effin PAIN!
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You can make up your own hard lines cheap.
You can also buy the OEM pieces pre-formed, coated, terminated, etc for cheap.
I want as little flex in the system as will get the job done and that's pretty much how all vehicles are designed and have been for a long time.
You can also buy the OEM pieces pre-formed, coated, terminated, etc for cheap.
I want as little flex in the system as will get the job done and that's pretty much how all vehicles are designed and have been for a long time.
- Thread starter
- #5
Apparently the 100 series lines are SS and the flare kit I bought at Harbor Freight is only for copper. It did nothing.
sorry man, most of my tube flaring experience is with copper line for water on kitchen remodels. i always thought the stainless tool one looked exactly the same as the copper one. i know you can rent specialized tools at some places like Auto Zone, you may see if they have one to rent for the day.
Not sure if it is available by you but in the northeast a lot of replacement lines are now made from copper nickel for rust prevention. Here we can get it in bulk rolls or in sections at Napa. You can also get new fittings and compression unions for brake lines there as well.
In the past I have used a pipe to coil the line that comes down from the master cylinder into the block.
In the past I have used a pipe to coil the line that comes down from the master cylinder into the block.
