Builds FlatRok40 build (1 Viewer)

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Turns out this wiring thing is not so bad the harness I got from my brother in law kicks ass. It is all laid out and labeled every couple inches and it can with dimmer switch, headlight switch, chevy steering colum switch that just pluged right into my colum and all the speedo stuff and was only 275.00. Took us about 4hrs last night to get it all laid out and ran and had all the major stuff wired. Today at work I have the cluster all wired and ready to put a plug on the end and its done. Just need to figure out how toyota had the lights, wipers and heater and should be about done. Has anybody made there front park lights turn lights? I think I just need to get a 2 wire housing any ideas on what works the best? So close I can taste it

What harness was it? Im dreading that part of the build.
4 hrs sounds like a BLISTERING pace for that. Nice job!
 
Yea I have headlights,turn signals,tail lights and Wiper. The motor yarns over just need summit to hopefully find the right fuel connector for the tbi. Cluster ready to go in I could drive this thing I'd it was not for that dam fuel fitting.
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What harness was it? Im dreading that part of the build.
4 hrs sounds like a BLISTERING pace for that. Nice job!

Its was made by American Autowire. Its there Power Plus 13 kit. It was laid out real nice and had good instructions. There was a made trunk then the branches where sepreated nicely all the rear was one, front, dash, so forth so I just pulled it back and everything was there. The main power wires where all fuseable link. I have never wired a vehicle before so I have no experiance with another product but this one sure made it simple. It still had alot of things I did'nt use but plan to in the future, Elec fan, third brake light and others. Was only 269.00. Check it out.
 
I ended just wiring them direct so I have no park lights works fine. I drove it tonite around the block:steer:. Loud as hell with just being straight out of the manifold. I will try and post the vid tomorrow to much :beer::beer: now. It runs
:bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce::bounce2:
 
Is there a diagram of the shift patterns for the twin stick set up also on the toybox is there only high and low it shifts into 2 positions forward and down assuming up is for normal driving. I am at working pumping water from the flood and vs.t search very well on phone. Thanks guys
 
Is there a diagram of the shift patterns for the twin stick set up also on the toybox is there only high and low it shifts into 2 positions forward and down assuming up is for normal driving. I am at working pumping water from the flood and vs.t search very well on phone. Thanks guys

On the Toybox you should have low, neutral, high. The forward postion is low. On the LC case I believe the left stick is high/low, and the right is 2wd/4wd.
 
Cool thanks, that is what I was thinking for the t case. I will check on the toybox seemed to only be 2 spots to shift. I have to check when I get home
 
All the wiring is done and the gauges are in and work after trying to chase down a short for awhile. I hate ground wires they seems to be the bigest problem you have in wiring not working maybe because you take it for granted that it is grounded good. Had a faulty cig lighter out of the box and wasted a ton of time on that but learned to check the swithes first before tearing things apart:bang:. Off to the exhaust shop on tuesday and then the shake down will start. Hopefully will not find to many problems. We are headed to CO June 19th to go to Indy. Never been there but buddy says it should be a good spot to test things out. Hopefully have things tested and fixed before our trip to South Dakota for the cruiser classic. Will post some pics tomorrow
 
Alright guys need some help. I drove it a little farther today and tried all the shifters and 2wd works high and low and 4wh works high and low but the toybox will not shift into low. It runs fine in high and shifts good to neutral but will not shift up any farther. I noticed that the front drive shaft has some slight movement by the t case every so slight. I tried to dive up and small incline and the shifter poped out of gear in the t case. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or it could be my tranny hump but don't think so:frown:. It will go to the exhaust shop tomorrow so I will be able to drive more but am dreading tearing it all back apart. Any thoughts on what might be wrong? Did I screw up the tcase when I redid it? I thought I did it by the book. Crap:bang:
This is about all did to the toybox. It was all assembled just needed to put this spacer in and had questions abou that and talked to marlin about it.
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Is there a shift rail that runs up inside there. I did not remove anything else just the outside so I could get it to sit flush with case. I have read about a shift rail having to be ground down a little. I have no idea what I did wrong just grabbing straws here.
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Is the tcase popping out of gear or the toybox? When you get this all figured out let us know what you found. I just picked up a toybox on friday and building the same setup you have so I'm interested to find out whats wrong also.
 
The t case is. Hope the linkage just needs adjusting. It just doesn't seem like it will pop in and stay the slightest bump and out it goes. Not much adjustment there with the twin stick
 
Just got off the phone with marlin very helpful. Apperantly the pic above is what not to do. I should have clearanced the case not the toybox. The shift rail goes up in there and I didnt clearance the rail so the rail hits the case when shifting to low. This will be a big job just to do 1 min of grinding. Hate learing things the hard way. Hope this becomes helpful to the next guy somewhere down the road. Pretty sure I didn;t get the case back together right when I reassembled it anyway.
 
Man that sucks! I went through the same thing with some dual mini cases once. Had to tear it all apart just to cut about a half inch off the shift rail. What about your adapter? Did Marlin think it would be O.K.?
 
For the t-case not staying in gear, you can try to increase detent tension, but I imagine that your shift collars teeth are worn, or the fork, or even the gears where they are engaged by the collar.
 
Well I put about 20 miles on the cruiser today and had a blast. The exhaust shop did a great job they have it all tucked really nice by the frame should have no problems with it. The electric spedo is the way to go just found a 2 mile stretch of road and set it and done. I will have to have the wife follow me to see how close it is but past some cops and they never looked twice. Hopefully tomorrow I will try and pull the toybox. I am hoping that i can leave the motor and tranny in and just unbolt it and lift out the toybox and case. That is my plan so we will see how it goes. I might try and find a someone to rebuild the case beings I failed once already. Have a FSM downloaded on my computer but its not very clear and prints of bad.
 
If you're talking about the splitcase, there is a good thread over in the 60 section right now.
 
If you're talking about the splitcase, there is a good thread over in the 60 section right now.

Thanks I will check it out.
 

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