Once you have the video up on another page (tab) just copy the link and post that into your reply here on Mud. It will sort it out for you and the video will show like I put it in there.
FJ80 Battery mystery, won't start nor stay running. (2 Viewers)
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Next time lolOnce you have the video up on another page (tab) just copy the link and post that into your reply here on Mud. It will sort it out for you and the video will show like I put it in there.
At this point I'm pretty certain it was the battery and he just doesn't want to come back and admit it.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #69
Sorry folks, my life is...well...inhumane lately between work + health.
So I do have an update, but none of you here will believe me, and I honestly don't know what to make of this anymore.
- Received the new terminals, went to put them in and noticed the "replacement" Group27 finally had fully trickle charged up. I said "WTF it is still worth a try" and just put that replacement battery in keeping old terminals in-place and tested starting the car. No shocker, car started right up with proper idle and all things. Clearly it is the battery.
- Took the Toyota 84month that was now on the ground and went back to my garage to go put it on my battery charger. The battery charger immediately showed a green 100% charged light. Again, just no way, right? So I ran back down the driveway with the Toyota battery, out to where the 80 is parked, put Toyota battery back in the vehicle, installed it and went to go prove to myself there was something wrong with the battery despite myself and Toyota dealership themselves saying there was nothing wrong with it. The 80 starts perfectly normal now with the apparently bad Toyota battery!
- I sit there dumbfounded,
- I stop the car,
- Start it back up. Yup, perfectly normal.
- Needing to leave town ASAP for work +
holiday, I just throw my hands in the air with the old battery in and leave. - Get back into town and go try and start the 80. She fires right up. WTAF‽
- You've seen my videos, they're clearly showing the 80 not starting with that battery and needing a jump,
- That old battery always tested fine (though I didn't believe it) both from me as well as Toyota, but would NOT start that car.
- Is it possible my manhandling of the old battery that was pissing me off and maybe just near dropping to the ground let loose something?
- And now, everything is normal. I will still put on the new terminals, but again, WTAF‽
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I don't know anything useful, but am glad you got it going.
Hope the health issues get sorted.
I like the brass terminals and run them on my 80. Your old terminals have seen better days. I think team "battery problem" got it right on this one.
Could dropping the battery cause something like ??? dropping off the lead plates or something like that? Again, I don't know anything about batteries. And it clearly shows...
Hope the health issues get sorted.
I like the brass terminals and run them on my 80. Your old terminals have seen better days. I think team "battery problem" got it right on this one.
Could dropping the battery cause something like ??? dropping off the lead plates or something like that? Again, I don't know anything about batteries. And it clearly shows...
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Must have been holding your mouth right.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Years ago I fixed my propane hot water heater in my house kinda the same didn't drop it but hit the control valve about 10 times with a hammer then it lit with no problem.
glad you have made progress with the 80.
assuming your battery was fine all along (per Toyota dealership load test and ability to keep a charge), it seems obvious to me that your terminals are/were shot.
the contact area between the I.D. of the battery terminals and the O.D. of the battery posts was more than likely minimal, failing to both allow proper power delivery to the starter and a return charge from your alternator. when you jumped the car you essentially created new surface contacts (exterior of battery terminals), allowing proper power to the starter.
jumping the vehicle however never "fixed" the return charge pathway, nor the vehicles ability to sense proper battery charge. this would tax the alternator to continually attempt to charge a "dead battery" and more than likely be responsible for poor idle.
you already have the new terminals, in my humble opinion it would be more than reasonable to replace them
assuming your battery was fine all along (per Toyota dealership load test and ability to keep a charge), it seems obvious to me that your terminals are/were shot.
the contact area between the I.D. of the battery terminals and the O.D. of the battery posts was more than likely minimal, failing to both allow proper power delivery to the starter and a return charge from your alternator. when you jumped the car you essentially created new surface contacts (exterior of battery terminals), allowing proper power to the starter.
jumping the vehicle however never "fixed" the return charge pathway, nor the vehicles ability to sense proper battery charge. this would tax the alternator to continually attempt to charge a "dead battery" and more than likely be responsible for poor idle.
you already have the new terminals, in my humble opinion it would be more than reasonable to replace them
That sounds like there was a resistance/conductivity problem at the terminals or clamps and you fixed it by changing the battery and breaking through the oxide layer on the clamps.
Edit: @67azcruizr got me while I was typing.
Edit: @67azcruizr got me while I was typing.
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
Had you disconnected and reconnected the battery previously in this adventure? If not, then I will echo the two above comments. If you had, then that premise is a bit less convincing. But still the most likely in my opinion. Install the brass terminals and I will bet you will have the problem permenantly solved.
Mark...
Mark...
- Thread starter
- #76
Yes, it had been disconnected a couple times, as I took said battery to the dealer for warranty, and zero noted resistance between post and terminals. And 100% will change those terminals either way.
I'm thinking cables since you had done it before and you happened to manhandle the cables again and now have good connection to the terminals.
Bad vibes?
had a real headscratcher like this on a different vehicle. that car had a rubber isolated alternator, with a dedicated ground wire to the engine block. engine would stumble, and sometimes die, seemingly at random. took me a year+ of replacing sooo many things (needed anyway...call it baselining). car doesn't have a built in voltmeter, so i missed the battery voltage dropping for an embarrassingly long time.
ended up being the ground wire. insulation looked fine, but only a few copper strands were still intact. vibrations would cause it to open up, discharging the battery.
i'm thinking some combo of ripping out and reinstalling that battery has fixed it. loose terminals, cables, etc.
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