It's kinda under the air cleaner...
FJ80 3fe new guy with issues
- Thread starter jigglebear
- Start date
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Well the verdict is in! I replaced both 02 sensors, and did the the VC120 auto zone special (cheaper replacement charcoal canister). My idle is exactly where it's supposed to be. The variations between park, drive, nutrual are no longer. I reset the computer just putting miles on it so it can do its thing before I attempt smog or compare the mpg's. Horse power increases is noticeable.
New question
I noticed my front driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side. The shocks are shot. What are the chances new shocks would fix the sag on the driver side? Or is it just for sure the coil? If so a lift kit just made its way to the top of my wish list.
I found a 2" lift for pretty cheap but I have been told anything less than 3" is a waste on a fj80. So my concern with that is I just bought new 32" tires, I fear with a 3" lift the 32" tires will be to small making my cruiser look like it skipped leg day. Any thought or suggestions would be welcomed.
You need springs. Shocks damp motion depending on how fast they are compressed/extended but they don't provide support (lift). I suppose you could make a spacer if not interested in new springs?
There is a wealth of info on lifts if you search this site. It would take a long time to type even a part of it out. I'd say browse the forum and see what you think of other's builds. You will want to consider what type of wheeling/driving you intend to do when deciding on what path to take.
As you can see, you can run your 32's as is. If you want to do a small cheap lift with new shocks and upgade later, nothing wrong with that. Or, you might decide to build to your end goals and skip the middle steps... as you can see, lots to learn and lots to consider when it comes to lifts, etc...
Frank
There is a wealth of info on lifts if you search this site. It would take a long time to type even a part of it out. I'd say browse the forum and see what you think of other's builds. You will want to consider what type of wheeling/driving you intend to do when deciding on what path to take.
As you can see, you can run your 32's as is. If you want to do a small cheap lift with new shocks and upgade later, nothing wrong with that. Or, you might decide to build to your end goals and skip the middle steps... as you can see, lots to learn and lots to consider when it comes to lifts, etc...
Frank
Is the vc120 a charcoal how long does it last and wants the price point
Yes. Very long, probably will out last your truck at this point. Check Autozone, cheapest I ever found was there.
The lift depends on what you're going to use it for. Since you're only going to 32" tires, then I'm guessing it's not a rock crawler.
A 2" to 2-1/2" lift can be done without having to modify caster and other suspension issues.
Anything more than that, and you MAY have to do caster plates/bushings, double-cardan driveshafts, and others.
Keep it low depending on use. The higher it sits, the higher the center of gravity.
35" tires will fit on stock suspension, but they may rub under full articulation. A 2" lift will resolve that.
Stock tires are 31",, Most go to 33" (285's) and many go to 35" (315's)
Good Luck!
OME suspensions are good, just buy from a reputable vendor on 'Mud and talk with them about it. They'll talk you through.
A 2" to 2-1/2" lift can be done without having to modify caster and other suspension issues.
Anything more than that, and you MAY have to do caster plates/bushings, double-cardan driveshafts, and others.
Keep it low depending on use. The higher it sits, the higher the center of gravity.
35" tires will fit on stock suspension, but they may rub under full articulation. A 2" lift will resolve that.
Stock tires are 31",, Most go to 33" (285's) and many go to 35" (315's)
Good Luck!
OME suspensions are good, just buy from a reputable vendor on 'Mud and talk with them about it. They'll talk you through.
I don't plan on doing any serious rock crawling, but I am kinda regretting not getting 33" tires. From my personal taste and cost I am considering a 2" to 2.5"lift. I just hope it doesn't make the current tires look small.
The auto zone charcoal canister was 56 bucks in California..
The auto zone charcoal canister was 56 bucks in California..
The good news is that tires wear out. You'll get another chance to buy new tires.
Install your lift and admire it.
When these tires wear out, you'll buy 33's or 35's.\\Then you'll admire it some more and be very happy that you installed the lift when you did.
Don't obsess over what you did or didn't do.
Just drive and enjoy it.
Install your lift and admire it.
When these tires wear out, you'll buy 33's or 35's.\\Then you'll admire it some more and be very happy that you installed the lift when you did.
Don't obsess over what you did or didn't do.
Just drive and enjoy it.
How much is your speedo thrown off going from stock to 33s
Also the vc 120 seams to have one less outlet pipe is this an issue or something that takes modification?
About 5%. When the speedo reads 70, I'm doing 74-75. (verified w/ GPS) At 25, I'm running 26.
That's not bad how can you adjust it so your mileage is correct because I'd like to be able to accurately measure that
If you have a 93, about your only choice is a Yellowbox. (Google it....it's a speed sensor mounted on the transfer case.) However, your year MIGHT have an actual speedo cable that you can go to a speedo shop and get a multiplier to reduce down.
Search speedo correction on 'Mud. I'm sure SOMEONE has done it.
I use an OBD2 Ultragauge that I have calibrated , so I watch that if I REALLY need to.
Same for the odometer? And I have a 90 fj62
Yes, especially on the older ones. Never mind on the Yellow Box for the 90. It has speedo cables and you need a speed reducer.
Something that looks like this:
GM AC SPEEDOMETER CABLE 90 DEGREE GEAR REDUCER ADAPTOR 1565814 6479179 1:1.941 | eBay
You also may want to do a search in the 60 section for those.
Regarding the vc120, you cancel out the vent on the bottom. The VC120 has its own vent system. The bracket is also a little small for the VC120. I used a long skinny bolt to make up the difference, I used a bolt and a hose clamp to cancel out the vent/return line at the bottom. Works perfect and saved me about 300 bucks.
I got a question too. I feel like I've hijacked this thread a little bit hey, we're all new guys with problems right?? Anyway, what is this thing I've circled here? It goes into the manifold and had two vac lines coming from it but I'm not sure where they go. I unplugged it when I was taking egr stuff off.
Idk I've been wondering this too. And no problem haha it seams this is becoming a thread oh how to get your cruiser that's been messed up by the po working right again. Haha this place is awesome.
Yea this is pretty sweet
I wish I had a clue but after you mentioned the vac line I was lost. I will however report I got 100 miles more per tank after replacing 02 sensors and the charcoal canister. I try my first attempt at smoging it in Cali this weekend. Finger crossed the catylitic coverters are not not clogged up. I got to run an entire tank on the freeway today, hoping the high heat bern might of cleaned them out a little.
