FJ62 Revival, NM Truck Saved

[ToyotaTechnical]

Hey all, here is my new project. Have been on the look out for a clean, rust free 62. One popped up on Facebook market place in central New Mexico. Classic sketchy Facebook post. One photo, no information, except "text my husband, here is is info".

It seemed too good to be true...but I sent the text anyways. I did not want to drive 10 hours to possibly get scammed.

Well, one Uhaul rental, and many miles later, Its back home in Texas. It sat for the past 20 years, after the previous owner passed away. Here are the basics:

169K Miles
Rust free
2 owner
NM and Arizona Truck
Now in north Texas
Factory 2 tone... after mechanical restore, it will be going back to original color
Did not run. (Now runs)

EDIT: To save you lots of scrolling: Here is the cruiser as it sits now (1/2023):

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

First thing first... get it running.

1. Engine turns over by hand? Check
2. Next thing: oil change. 15W-40 and a fresh d3 filter. Old 20 year old oil smelled like heck, but visually checked out. No coolant or water.
3. Coolant system check: flush radiator, and drain the block. Coolant that comes out is neon green... and the coolant passages are in incredible shape. Score!

4. Boil tested the Tstat. Works like a charm after a 20 year break. (Got to love OEM)

5. Diagnosis the electrical issues... an area where I have no idea what I am doing. but I can read, and I have the FSM...

I poked around the car for about a week, plugging in and connecting wires that were undone. But it would not crank no matter what. and the FSM tests were not adding up. The multimeter was doing all sorts of funny things.

Turns out the vehicle had a "pro-lock" installed back in the early 90s (now out of business), to prevent theft. A immobilizer that was tucked up under the dash. It interrupted the starter. To make things even more interesting, the pro lock relay had gone bad, and had a questionable ground that sometimes worked.

I cut that out, rewired it back to OE spec... and she cranked HARD and angry. But.... no fuel.

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

No fuel.. how do I know? I cracked open the fuel filter, and its bone dry. Time to drop the tank, and diagnose to problem.

As soon as I drop it... it feels and sounds like there is 2 pound of gravel in the tank. The tank recall was done in AZ in 1992... Regardless, there is a serious rust problem. Not surprising though, as it sat for the past 20 years.

I pull the pump, and yep. Rust, lots of it. The pre filter sock is loaded full as well.

To add the the restriction, the previous person in the tank forgot to do up the clamp, so it was fighting the restriction of the clamp as well.

 

[HemiAlex]

The people want more.

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Fuel tank is now reconditioned and resealed. Here is how I did it.

Here is what you need:

• Hose
• Water spout
• 2 gallons of muriatic acid (I got it from Home Depot)
• Lots of baking powder to neutralize acid, maybe 15 pounds? (also from Home Depot)
• blow dryer / heat gun
• Tank sealer of your choice (I went with por15 49208, which is 16 ounces. If I were to do it again.... I would have bought 2 cans)
• Duct tape to seal holes

Depending on what you already have, I have less than $50 into the project, and about 6 hours of labor.

Steps:
1. Flush out the solids with the hose. shake it and tilt it until the solids are removed
2. Tape up/seal the holes of the gas tank with duct tape
3. Fill tank with about 15 gallons of water
4. Add Muriatic acid ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. This stuff is serious. make sure you were eye pro and have great ventilation.
5. Let acid soak in tank for 1.5 hours
6. Drain the acid from tank
7. use baking soda to neutralize the acid
8. flush tank with water to remove the acid
9. Immediately start to dry tank with heat gun/ hair dryer... it will flash rust super quick
10. once completely dry, use tank sealer, and follow application directions per manufacture

before:

after muriatic acid:

After tank sealer:

Overall, I am pleased with the results. This should buy the tank many more years of use, and keep the fuel pump and system functioning properly.

Now the easy part. Let the tank sealer set for 96 hours, and wait for parts to arrive.

• Denso fuel pump kit: Denso 950-0147
• Guage assembly: OEM: 83320-69015

 

[Meatdawg]

Nice save from my home state! Good job and keep the updates coming.

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

While I wait for parts, I decided to tackle some other tasks.

Power Steering:
When I went to purchase the truck, I noticed the PS fluid was cherry red dex2 fluid... great indicator of proper maintenance. Regardless of color, the 20 year old fluid needed changing.

The original Yokohama PS hose was pretty firm, slightly cracking, and had an interesting ding in it around the hose clamp. Pulled it off, and bingo, clamp was the issue:

\

Shot of the end of the hose, where it was starting to crack:

Fresh 3/8 continental, transmission hose, and a clamp, good as new.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Awesome documentation. Looks like your sleuthing this right!!!

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Next up was the battery tray. I have a spare stainless tray tucked away for another 60 project, but thats not the approach of this vehicle. I want to keep it original where possible. AKA lots of labor, with possible $ saved.

Here is how the tray started out:

First thing was soap, water, and elbow grease... then into the evaporust for an hour or two.

After evaporust:

Then another soap and water bath, then let it dry. As you can tell... some of the original coating from toyota refused to let go.

Paint... I decided to go with KBS asphalt paint, as it seemed to match the original coating of the tray best.

Final result:

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Brake Fluid Flush:

Went to bleed the brake system, and hooked up the speedi-bleed. Pretty cool system. It uses tire pressure to move fluid through the system. Great way to keep family, friends, the wife, or even the neighbor happy. They no longer have have to press the pedal for hours on end. No more yelling "DOWN, UP, DOWN UP, DOWN UP".

I started at the rear drums... crack open the bleeders, and nothing. Bone dry. I pull the bleeder nipples completely. Still no fluid.

Hmmm, I then move to the LSPV to see if its getting fluid and proper flow. Yep. Good flow. That means blockage is between LSPV and the drum cylinders.

I begin to pull the rear drum, and start hammering to vibrate the drum loose. About 20 hits in, fluid starts rushing out the backside of both drums (as I still had the bleeders pulled). I run over to the bleeders, and screw them back in tight. Both cylinders now have great flow. I love a good hammer fix.

I bleed the full system twice, RR, RL, FR, FL, LSPV. About 3Q of DOT3 fluid.

I continue to pull the rear drum for visual inspection, and was in for a great surprise. Freshly service, 20 year ago... shoes are cherry (actually blue). Sorry, lame joke.

Making good progress over the past week... it not only goes now, but it can also stop.

 

[SteveH]

You might want to check those 'new' 20 year old brake shoes on occasion after driving it some. I have seen more than a few old shoes where the glue that bonds the shoe material to the steel backing lets loose. The quality of drum brake shoes anymore does not impress me. Rivets could score your drum but at least the shoe stayed attached to the backing plate.

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

You might want to check those 'new' 20 year old brake shoes on occasion after driving it some. I have seen more than a few old shoes where the glue that bonds the shoe material to the steel backing lets loose. The quality of drum brake shoes anymore does not impress me. Rivets could score your drum but at least the shoe stayed attached to the backing plate.

I will keep an eye on them! Good heads up

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Parts arrive to wrap up the fuel tank project.

Fuel gauge assembly arrived. Old unit was rusted, and the arm was seized. Here is an old v new. OEM: 83320-69015. Assembly includes fresh screws, along with rubber gasket.

Fuel tank drain plug gasket: OEM: 90430-12245

Fresh Fuel Tank Cap: OEM: 77310-12100

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Big day for the 62. Rolled and stopped under its own power. First time in over 20 years...

Overall, incredible example of cruiser quality. It took 3 weeks to get her moving. One week to get her running. Majority of the time was spent waiting on parts to arrive.

What did it take?:

• Fresh fuel pump
• reconditioned fuel tank (due to rust)
• oil change
• coolant drain and fill
• reground coil (clean bolts and add additional ground to body)
• brake fluid flush
• Remove starter kill switch (anti-theft measure of the previous owner)

While she moves now, I have a long ways to go to get her dialed in. I have never had a vehicle leave me stranded, and I want to keep the record going.

The approach?

1. Cooling system Refresh
2. Fresh Fluids
3. Get electronics working properly (turn signals, head lamps, brake lights, windows, etc)
4. Interior refresh (comfort)
5. Exterior work (repaint)

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Couple odds and ends over the weekend.

First thing was to start cleaning out the boxed frame. The frame is caked in red moon dust from New Mexico. Spent a few ours underneath, spraying, brushing, and scrubbing.

Power washer and lots of patience is crucial for cleaning out the boxed section. I have found raising the rear up, and using the frame holes towards the front is most effective at cleaning out the junk.

Frame after scrubbing. Near pristine.

Other parts are starting to arrive as well. The basics. Fresh plugs. OEM: 90919-01064. Gapped to .031. Old plugs were pretty fouled.

Old Plugs: 6,5,4

Old plugs: 3,2,1

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Headlight testing. One of the steps to getting her road worthy, it getting the lights all working. So far, all light issues are either related to a dirty plug/connection. Or a burned out bulb.

3/4 of the sealed beams worked after sitting for so long.

Testing the Headlight. Two cables, and a 12V battery. Touch the cables to the post, if it lights up, headlight is good/still holding vacuum. If it lights up, my focus goes towards the plug. Most of the plugs were junked up with dirt and debris.

Headlight plug that is in rough condition. Anyone have an idea on a part number for replacement? Right side, high beam. (US passenger side).

OEM Bulb that works for the side marker light. OEM: 99132-12050

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Engine Hood Support items:

Engine Hood support / prop grommet: OEM: 90480-15002

Engine Hood Support / prop clip: OEM 53452-90351

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Cooling System maintenance:

Fresh Radiator CSF2708. Good fit up, but thankful that I am going with an aux trans cooler, as the stock fitting will not fit on the right side (return side). Original radiator was on its last leg, and would leak when pressurized. OEM Rubber isolators at base were in good shape. Upper isolators were toast. So I pulled two from the AC condenser, as they were in good shape. OEM: 90099-32073

Fresh fan clutch as well: AISIN FCT-049. Unit is beefy.

Interference issue with CSF2708, using stock fitting:

Also used foam tape to seal the shroud the radiator, and radiator to the body- an effort to push as much air through the radiator.

Foam Tape:

Finished up product:

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Caught a coolant hose on its way out. Coolant hose to the oil cooler. The many years of oil and dirt accumulation had it decomposing. Glad I caught it, as a failure this low on the block would be bad news.

a short length of 5/8 coolant hose, and 2 constant torque breeze clamps, and good as new.

Before:

Soon to be failure point:

New set up:

 

[ToyotaTechnical]

Aux Trans cooler set up:

Items Used:

• Cooler: TRU Cool LPD 4589
• About 9 foot of 3/8 Trans line
• 3/8 hose clamps of your choice
• 4x Rubber isolators. I went junking and found 3rd gen 4runners AC condensers have some great brackets to use. (pics below)
• Aux filter: Magnegfine 3/8 trans filter
• Replacement fittings for passenger (right side/Return side) of radiator (fitting details included below)
• Re-use hard line return side fitting (have to cut the crimp to expose fitting)

Progression of fluid through system:

1. Out of Trans (lower hard line)
2. To the trans cooler in radiator
3. Through the radiator
4. Exits the radiator
5. Soft line to the aux cooler (bottom side of aux cooler)
6. through the aux cooler (exits on top of cooler)
7. Soft line to aux trans filter (magnefine 3/8 filter)
8. Soft line to the modified return fitting (pictures below)

Here is final product:

3rd gen 4R isolator brackets:

Fitting that is revealed after cutting crimp on the trans return line:

Fitting, reinstalled to hardline, after cutting the crimp. Now will accept any generic 3/8 PS line:

Fittings used to on return side or radiator: Blue screws into the radiator, 6AN 90 used to direct trans line to aux cooler.