FJ62 Revival, NM Truck Saved (1 Viewer)

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Trans Fluid Flush prior to installing the aux cooler:

Fluid was in decent condition. Very little deposits on drain plug. Not surprised though, as truck is relatively low miles (163K miles).

Passive Flush process. Most seem to refer to this as a "Rodney Flush"
  1. Drain trans pan
  2. Measure fluid amount that drained out
  3. Refill same amount of fluid through dip stick tube
  4. Crack open return line from radiator (right side/passenger side)
  5. Direct line to collection pan/ container
  6. Turn motor on for about 15-25 seconds
  7. Turn motor off
  8. Measure fluid pumped out
  9. Refill the same amount of fluid that was pumped out through dip stick tube
  10. continue step 6-9 until fresh fluid exits the system
Drain plug magnet. Deposits rubbed onto paper towel
Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 10.35.45 PM.png


Magnet, prior to rubbing onto paper towel:

Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 10.37.58 PM.png


Fluid upon initial drain, from trans pan:

Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 10.37.08 PM.png
 
Aux Filter for PS System:

Commentary: These are by no means "needed", and completely overkill. The filter quality is impressive, and a good way to add fluid capacity, while also filtering any junk. If a filter can get an extra 20K miles out of a PS pump or steering box, its a win in my eyes. I have used this on my pickups with great success.

Filter installed after PS fluid flush. DEX 2 fluid.

Simple instal. Cut the return line, and use two clamps.

Before:

Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 10.47.10 PM.png


After:
Screen Shot 2021-09-06 at 10.48.52 PM.png
 
Old V new coil for the FJ62. Old (not OEM) unit was putting out all sorts of strange numbers when testing with multimeter. OEM: 90919-02113.

Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.13.35 PM.png


Also turns out, one of the OEM spark plugs I installed was cracked. I heard a slight tick at idle... turns out the spark was coming off the side of the plug. Easy fix.
 
Rebuilt fusible link by @Coolerman. Impressive work and quality. Very quick turn around time.

Fusible link busted from age and constant bending. Also looks like it got toasty at one point in its existence.

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Fresh Side marker lights. Old ones were non-existent, or busted.

OEM: 81740-14110
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OEM: 81730-14110


Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.19.33 PM.png
 
Starter for the FJ62. Old one was starting to need hammer taps to work, along with a plug jiggle. The new starters plug fits up tight.

Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.24.53 PM.png


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Fresh wire set for the 62. Yazaki has incredible attention to detail. Every wire is pre-oriented, spaced, and the text is all pointed one way. All clips already done up. No rub spots when installed. These wires should be for an aircraft,

OEM: 90919-21410

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Shifter bushings for the 62. Simple and cheap fix. Also cleaned and lubed the the shifter contact points. Eliminated majority of the slop.

2x OEM: 90385-16008

Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.30.42 PM.png
 
Belts and bearings. Fresh Nachi bearings for the FJ62 idler pulleys. Old V new. Both same spec 6301. This is a good job to complete when swapping out belts.

Belts:
  1. Belt Fan to alternator: 90916-02141
  2. Air pump belt: 90916-02193
  3. AC to crank: 99332-11180

Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.33.30 PM.png


Idler bearing. Old V new.
Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.32.21 PM.png


Bearing Specs
Screen Shot 2021-10-09 at 11.32.29 PM.png
 
Great stuff here. Enjoying this!
 
Great stuff here. Enjoying this!

Appreciate it! Much more to come. I am playing catch up on posting, as the vehicle just passed state inspection.

This is great. Probably should be a sticky for anyone buying a negleted 62/early 80.

I love 'saved trucks' threads
Thank you! They all seem to need the same recipe to get back on the road.
 
More brake work:

Fresh brake pads for the fronts... they likely had less than a few miles left in them. Went with power stop ceramic pads.

Old Pads:
Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.16.59 PM.png

New Pads, in box:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.16.42 PM.png


Fresh brake master cylinder as well. pics show New V old. Aisin/advics BMT-022. Old original was starting to leak, causing inconsistent pedal feel. Bench bleed, and bolt it on. Then proceed to bleed the system 2x. Pedal now provides more confidence when stopping.


New
Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.09.21 PM.png


Old

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.09.32 PM.png


Leake source of old master:
Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.09.48 PM.png
 
Brake work continued:

Front axle, left side hard line was crushed at some point, which is 47316-60310 NLA.

I reached out to @Rainman for a custom line.

Old damaged line:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.19.01 PM.png


Sample of new line by Rainman:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.19.11 PM.png
 
Rear Wire Harness Clean up:

Trailer harness was a bad instal and design… who they heck tows with a 3F anyway. Truck does not have a tow hitch either. Removed the junk wires, cleaned up the connections, cleaned the grounds, cleaned the wires, taped them up, and wrapped with hard shell to protect from any rocks or snags going forward.

Junk Removed:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.25.36 PM.png


After clean up:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.25.43 PM.png


After tape and wrap:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.25.50 PM.png
 
Getting the horn to work:

Prior owner removed the stock horns, and had some old signal tones that came with the truck.

I hooked those up, but instantly blew the 15A horn/haz fuse (in cab fuse box). I went through 2 fuses, and decided to heck with it. Time for a modern/ high performance horn. Old design was weak at best, and a relay set up would be needed regardless to get the juice I wanted.

I went with Hella Sharptones. From amazon. They are a deeper tone then the other hella options. $23

Amazon listing:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.33.51 PM.png


Mounted in stock location:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.35.25 PM.png


Wiring Info:
Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.35.47 PM.png


My visual model, and list for what I needed to buy:

Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.35.59 PM.png
 
Horn Continued:

Horn also needed the usual brass pin replaced after being worn down from the years and use. The brass pin is the source of ground for the system.

I had a spare used pin around from one of my pickups. It did the trick. OEM: 84312-20011

Horn now functions. And is incredibly loud. My ears are still ringing from testing. I see this as a great safety upgrade.

I am struggling to attach a video of the horn demo, but can be found on my instagram page "toyotatechnical". Posted on 10/9/2021.

Old V new brass Pin:
Screen Shot 2021-10-10 at 12.40.58 PM.png
 
Focus has been on the interior lately. Interior has been stripped, cleaned, and sound proofed. Tons of labor and time.

Sound proofing materials:
  • Noico Butyl
  • Noico Foam Insulation
  • 1/2 pound Mass Loaded Vinyl
Once sound proofed, DNP Capet kit was installed. Great upgrade, especially for anyone that had rat piss soaked carpet like mine:

Old, piss soaked carpet:
Screen Shot 2021-11-12 at 10.11.59 AM.png


New:

Screen Shot 2021-11-12 at 10.12.11 AM.png


Installed:

IMG_2897.jpg


IMG_2898.jpg


IMG_2899.jpg
 
Hey All, completely blanked on this thread. Here is the overdue update:

Cruiser is in its final stages of "fully completed". Interior will be the main focus moving forward. Door cards have been redone, and driver seat has been reformed and covered. SOAR Foam using SMS OEM match fabric. In the mean time, I have pulled the injectors to be cleaned. Will post results in following post.

Paint turned out well. I would say its 4 footer. Not perfect, but perfect for a daily driver. Turned out to be a real looker.

Here it is back from paint, just after ceramic tint instal, missing some details such as mud guards, roof rack, vents, etc:
Screen Shot 2023-02-01 at 3.36.32 PM.png


IMG_6643.jpg



Roof rack, mud flaps, etc added:

Screen Shot 2023-02-01 at 3.36.48 PM.png
 

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