FJ62 No Fuel/Start

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Joined
May 10, 2009
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Boulder, CO
Hello Everyone so I have a 90 FJ62. Drove to work one day, just fine and when I went to leave work, no start at all. Turns over but no start. If you dump some gas down the intake, it will run for what gas is in there but, Will die soon after. Replaced the fuel pump and filter and no change. Iv been hearing about a Fuel Injector pressure regulator might be bad but I cant keep throw things at her. Any ideas?

Thanks!

-Matt
 
was the fuel pump bad?


Check the circuit opening relay. Common failure point

Check the air flow sensor. Very rare for it to fail.

Make sure the injectors are getting the signal to fire. A failed ECU or.... a bad connector in the harness.... neither likely but both can happen


The fuel pressure regulator can fail but it is not nearly as likely at the circuit opening relay... simple to field check by squeezing the return line shut and seeing if the engine fires off that way.


Mark...
 
Check the circuit opening relay. Common failure point

Yes, very common. It's located behind the passenger side kick panel.

Also could possibly be the EFI relay. Metal box thingy mounted on the inner fender by the air cleaner box.

Take a paper clip, jumper the +B and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector (located on the firewall next to the charcoal canister). Turn the key to ON, you should hear fuel hissing thru the fuel rail. If so, see if the engine starts. This bypasses the CO relay, and also can be used to confirm if the fuel pump is working or not.
 
don't forget about the connector in the driver rear wheelwell. that's where my problem was.
 
YEs the pump was bad as well, or starting to go bad. It was OEM. I do thank you guys for this input, There are a lot of things with the 62s im not used to coming from a 60 with my past cruiser. Its just a very puzzling and annoying So im going to check those things and see what I come up with. Sadly you dont find much out there for 62s out there but gosh I love this car, as she sits at my work. haha. THANKS EVERYONE!
 
I ran a hot wire directly to the pump wire in the cargo area access hole. ran great. that's how I started tracing the wires back and found my problem.
 
Ok so, Im really pulling my hair out here. Now the Diag Connections are Rusted to no end, not sure if that did anything but the jumper of the two connections did nothing. Now, Fuel is getting to the Filer at least. I am getting spark. Pump is pumping, Car runs when you dump some gas down the intake. The Pump was bad as well, but its still odd that its not Starting. I drove it to work just fine, Sat all day, I came back out, just turns over and thats it. So I dont know how to 100% check the EFI relay. All the fueses in the cabin are fine. No problem. I cant find any other boxes, with fuses, relays, nothing. I cant even find a manual for this thing easily. So if I can get more ideas, more clues, some way I can fix this without throwing everything at it, it would be so great.

THANKS!
 
Put electrical cleaner on your diagnostic port,its just corsion. Try paper clip again. Mike
 
1. Is your check engine light on when you turn the key to ign? If it lights up then your ECU is ok. If it does not light up then your ECU is damaged.
2. If you connect the Fp and +B pins in the diagnostics box on the passenger side firewall and you hear the pump then you know that the physical pump itself works and that the wiring to and from the engine to fuel pump is ok.
3. You say you are getting spark so we can rule out the coil, igniter, and dizzy.
4. You need to check electronics: There are three possible failure points; the ECU which I explained in number one, the EFI relay which is located on the passenger side fender wall behind the battery, and the circuit opening relay which is located on the passenger side kick panel where the person’s right foot would touch. Usually these electronics should be fine unless they have seen a lot of moisture or some other form of weathering which would make the electronics fail.
5. Check for clogged points in the fuel lines. This could happen in the lines, the fuel pressure regulator (FPG), and the fuel filter. Usually the FPR is ok, don’t throw money at it unless necessary. Follow the directions in number two above and loosen the banjo connection where the fuel enters the intake manifold. If you stand at the middle of the driver’s side fender you can lean over to the manifold and loosen the banjo bolt with a 12mm wrench and fuel should spray out. If it’s not spraying then you know that your injectors are not getting enough fuel pressure.

You need to purchase a FSM. The FSM will go through all the things I explained above with pictures and proper steps. Looks like you already know the bascis as you tried feeding it fuel so you should get there in no time. Give us an update and we’ll help point you in the right direction.
 
1. Is your check engine light on when you turn the key to ign? If it lights up then your ECU is ok. If it does not light up then your ECU is damaged.

That applies only if your CEL itself is good. Mine didn't work for a year or so with a good ECU. ;)
 
Ok guys, So, Wanna scream.. I can hear the EFI switch on and off. I found I believe the banjo connection, no fuel is getting to it. It looks like the FPG, From what I can tell what the part looks like. Its the top connection with the 12MM bolt and no fuel is coming out of it. Also what is a FSM? Im dying here.. thanks guys!
 
The ecus almost never fail (in over 15 years running a Cruiser shop and more as a hobbiest before that, I have yet to need to replace an ECU in a '62 or '80)... the circuit opening relay does more commonly (I have had to replace a half dozen of these over the years).

You need to determine if the fuel pump is running... simple field test... pull the solenoid wire from the start and turn the key to the start position.... if you do not have outside noises masking it, you should be able to hear the low hum of the fuel pump running while the key is held in the start position... if you have a helper handy, have them turn and hold the key while you listen closer to the fuel pump

You could also hook a test lamp to the lead for the fuel pump and see if it lights when the key is turned.


Make sure the pump is actually running before you start chasing other problems.


The FSM is the Factory Service manual.
 
Ok guys, So, Wanna scream.. I can hear the EFI switch on and off. I found I believe the banjo connection, no fuel is getting to it. It looks like the FPG, From what I can tell what the part looks like. Its the top connection with the 12MM bolt and no fuel is coming out of it. Also what is a FSM? Im dying here.. thanks guys!

Please be specific, did you try connecting Fp and +B in the diagnostics box and then checking fuel pressure? By connecting Fp and +B you bypass the electronics (i.e. ECU, EFI Relay, and Circuit Opening Relay.) This will immediately tell you if your problem is one of the electronics or if it’s something mechanical.

Let’s try this again from the top.

Check the following in order and answer each number (Yes or No) :

1. Connect Fp and +B. Do you hear the fuel pump? If you do then the wiring to the fuel pump is good go to 2a. If you don’t hear the fuel pump go to 2b.
2a. While Fp and +B are connected loosen one of the banjo bolts on your fuel system and check for fuel spurting out. If fuel spurts out then your lines are not clogged and your fuel pump has pressure meaning that one of your electronics are bad, go to 3a. If fuel is not spurting out then there is a mechanical problem, go to 3b.
2b. Not hearing the fuel pump means that the wiring from the fuel pump (in the tank) to the front passenger dash / firewall is bad. Most common place for the wiring to go bad along this line is the driver’s side rear quarter panel below your rear wiper reservoir. Rusty quarter panels allow water in and corrode the wiring. Your brake light wiring also runs through this area. You could also have a bad or missing ground. The main one for the rear is under the back of the truck, in the middle.
3a. Assuming fuel is spurting out you now have to check the electronics: The Factory Service Manual is a must here. Check the circuit opening relay first, then the EFI relay, then the ECU. As Mark W said, the ECU’s usually don’t go bad. My bet would be on the circuit opening relay as it’s most prone to failure because of moisture if the truck is in a rusty environment (due to its low mounting position inside the passenger side kick panel.)
3b. If no fuel is spurting out start by loosening the fuel line at the fuel filter, then the fuel rail, then the FPR, then the top of the manifold. In that order you can tell where your hang up is. If it’s clogged at the fuel filter then you know the lines to the tank are clogged or the gas tank has some debris (I doubt the gas tank in your situation since you drive it a lot.)
Please go through this checklist and tell us what you do and where you get stuck. Order a Factory Service Manual immediately. No FJ62 owner who works on his/her own truck should be without it. The FSM helps you understand the systems and troubleshoot problems. Ih8mud is here to help you once you have reviewed the FSM and give you all the hits, tricks, and most common failure points.

Good luck. Solving my no start issue was a horrible pain in the a$$ but once I figured it out I knew a whole lot about my truck that I didn’t before hand.
 
Found out the new pump isnt pumping at all. What shall I check. EFI relay is fine Iv checked that one. So now im back to square one.
 
How do you know the new pump isn’t pumping at all? Did you replace it with an OEM one and the connectors worked out or did you put a different one in there and had to wire it?

Did you use the diagnostics method and connect the Fp and +B terminals?

Please explain MORE… :mad:

Pretend this is a short novel and walk us through what you did IN DETAIL. If you can’t answer appropriately I’m giving up. This is my third post with input and I still haven’t gotten much from you other than we have a fuel pump issue and the car can crank over…

Come on buddy, I’m trying to help out here but I’m on low sleep and I don’t have my normal patience level. :rolleyes:
 
Sorry.. Yes I did chec the Diag method. FP and +B. Did not change anything. I disconnected the like to the fuel filter to realize its not pumping fuel. Though we thought it was. So back the fuel pump. I did replace it, and I tested the old one and it was sticking. So it might have been on it way out. So by taking off the fuel line to the filter, fuel isnt leaving the tank. Even with the Diag Method in place. I used the Normal connections it already had. So regardless of the banjo connection, Fuel isnt leaving the tank. The pump isnt working, though being new. Iv checked every fuse I can find. Im hoping I dont have to drop the tank again but if I need to, I will. So to sum it up, back to square one, Fuel pump was replaced, Fuel is not getting to the filter/engine, cant hear the pump, though its loud here at IBM. All fuses and relays I can find have been checked. Im still going through and checking some of the other things listed in the previous posts. Im on a very heavy budget right now and have a hard time finding a manual that doesnt cost a ton. Im sorry, I thought i was givng enough information but I do not like when people get upset for no reason. So I will find a different site where people can uderstand things such as frustration, tight budget, working in a Corp. Parking lot, And relaying this to my father while I sit at work all day. Thanks very much guys
 
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this was a problem I encountered with my 62, if there is a break in the wire between the pump and the jumper on the firewall, the power will still not get to the pump.

remove cargo area carpet, open access panel, find the connection for the fuel pump and connect a hot wire from the battery + to the feed in the connector, can't remember which wire it is, only 2 of them.
if you here your pump run when you attach wire, start tracing the wires back from the tank, or check the connector in the wheel well.

mine looked like pic.
E2.webp
E-1.webp
 
mattskiboo,
I'm sorry, I wasn't angry, just frustrated that I couldn't help further. 3_puppies is correct, you need to wire the fuel pump direct to battery and check to make sure it's pumping. The fuel pump hot wire color is RG (red green) and the ground wire is WB (white black.) It is located in the driver's side back panel under the rear washer fluid reservoir / jack area. Find the connector and run wires direct to battery. Then check fuel pressure at banjo fitting to see if gas is spurting. If the pump is running but no gas then you may have a clogged line or incorrectly hooked up hoses. If all works well wired direct then you know you have a wiring issue in between.

Did you hook up all the return hoses properly?

This is what your circuit opening relay should look like for reference while I have access to pics at home.
_MG_4381.jpg
 

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